tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24060528752860169532024-03-12T21:16:36.440-04:00Stitch to StyleSandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comBlogger45125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-15902445234761058472022-11-07T13:14:00.004-05:002022-11-07T14:54:43.367-05:00<p> <span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Hi everyone,</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">This morning I experimented with our new vegan leather. We have it in 2 colors: tan and blush. I haven't sewn with it myself, and I thought some of you might not have tried it.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">So I did some quick experimenting and want to show you my results.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">First, I tried pressing the fabric. A warm iron on the back side of the fabric is okay, but don't try pressing on the right side. I tried it, again using a warm temp and a light touch, but the iron just wants to stick, rather than gliding across the surface. I found that finger-pressing worked well--I kept flattening the surface of the fabric as it moved through the sewing machine.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Then I tried stitching. My machine has a leather setting, so I clicked it just to see what it advised. It lowered the pressure foot pressure and changed to a 3.0 stitch length. I found that both adjustments are important. In fact, I manually lowered the presser foot pressure even more. Practice on scraps to see what settings work best.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Next, I changed to a teflon foot. (I did try my usual metal foot, but it stuck to the fabric.) Here's what mine looks like:</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzj_u4x-9WWvlgzfptzqZWdGVRjLwYyKlaWS2snzcLT0iRo7K9ktq2aMmjOB2jbumT6_rzAx7CuYbbmKWI_5T0OHJyNXT35W3n77bO3u4cgKU5pGyh_QGd2HxfzlO9FVsafiRUKBRlDc_V6G4B4EGfy024s87K_PjERKonvVgKy-bAobiMl8j9pQ-8/s3024/teflon%20foot.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzj_u4x-9WWvlgzfptzqZWdGVRjLwYyKlaWS2snzcLT0iRo7K9ktq2aMmjOB2jbumT6_rzAx7CuYbbmKWI_5T0OHJyNXT35W3n77bO3u4cgKU5pGyh_QGd2HxfzlO9FVsafiRUKBRlDc_V6G4B4EGfy024s87K_PjERKonvVgKy-bAobiMl8j9pQ-8/w640-h640/teflon%20foot.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">Some manufacturers sell the feet; others sell strips of Teflon to stick on a foot. A Teflon foot will really help with this fabric.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">Stitching a seam with the fabric right side to right side was easy.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV4fjiD_UcUQFPrlRIa6SQtBsJ4KgzFgdlWTzUMCw1Un5ieAgS1ORKrCDRBHSbYxkOCq8H-KfFm8SNLqmVjKPdrQCAYtgAFZd0sCap0yC7DZMsNbIMZL-GqOoaejhCpS8Zqvb6Zjkj8zfXhiWuTRcN8l6WHXlpbGtWD-DByPyYN166OCUmBHHG_qfh/s3024/seam%20on%20vegan%20leather.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV4fjiD_UcUQFPrlRIa6SQtBsJ4KgzFgdlWTzUMCw1Un5ieAgS1ORKrCDRBHSbYxkOCq8H-KfFm8SNLqmVjKPdrQCAYtgAFZd0sCap0yC7DZMsNbIMZL-GqOoaejhCpS8Zqvb6Zjkj8zfXhiWuTRcN8l6WHXlpbGtWD-DByPyYN166OCUmBHHG_qfh/w400-h400/seam%20on%20vegan%20leather.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">I did use my fingers to <u>gently</u> help the fabric move through the machine. (Again, lower that presser foot pressure!) The back side of the fabric slides through the machine easily.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">Then I tried topstitching. I could not use a metal topstitching or edgestitching foot--mine don't have Teflon on them. So I kept the Teflon foot and aligned the fabric with the edge of the foot for topstitching. </span></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVNGtK43dyNMt2hF_oL6A0LxhW-ivDti1m7POBvCSnAuXU0LT46u-dWObXK7ffPteua4asA3oaC9Q_AIJRQbnyBqyt27ofAwbxtnBR6bK3IzeF7rUXjMT0Tz7vnsiZHuWsICdxZt3DMy4IL-wzW0pb5Wb_jvCGSPTEOERrsmG_d-cHeDHcMXU38yED/s3024/position%20foot%20for%20topstitching.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVNGtK43dyNMt2hF_oL6A0LxhW-ivDti1m7POBvCSnAuXU0LT46u-dWObXK7ffPteua4asA3oaC9Q_AIJRQbnyBqyt27ofAwbxtnBR6bK3IzeF7rUXjMT0Tz7vnsiZHuWsICdxZt3DMy4IL-wzW0pb5Wb_jvCGSPTEOERrsmG_d-cHeDHcMXU38yED/w400-h400/position%20foot%20for%20topstitching.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">I had fingerpressed the seam first. I found that it helped to once again gently use my fingers to help the fabric move under the foot. The stitching was easy, but I would practice on scraps to get the feel of it.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoEeHFjihYzJxdzET9HBOFpUJWmanZ37Dz4VRt2fId4cAfsM3vbPhJLX9wd6oV2EP-7CIx826ZEPhtb4gY6LZKuGPFVV6HEw6kzZ9c2yqfcoKEQBr0zxVikLiRg5aF3YHaIDeGZtWCg9oUtFNPJBWFHw4gPI6emlQAuiS5whoh6csmGYp-OBLNmofa/s3024/vegan%20leather%20edgestitching.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoEeHFjihYzJxdzET9HBOFpUJWmanZ37Dz4VRt2fId4cAfsM3vbPhJLX9wd6oV2EP-7CIx826ZEPhtb4gY6LZKuGPFVV6HEw6kzZ9c2yqfcoKEQBr0zxVikLiRg5aF3YHaIDeGZtWCg9oUtFNPJBWFHw4gPI6emlQAuiS5whoh6csmGYp-OBLNmofa/w400-h400/vegan%20leather%20edgestitching.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">I aligned with a different corner of the foot for edgestitching.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Results are pretty good. I used contrast thread so you could see my results. However, it shows any little waver in the stitching, so I moved on to matching thread. </span><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSwolCFB48gyo3O7NBeGlMTF-fY44_uF-oLmVgcXu7a0Xmhfqn9hSWUx-qAoW7PDaOMAX1xocBOE3RjrPwRjZ2KmTgjVOPUUe6DxTzvWYzD2qR__IyVQoKuFXwF69oHO5cPFBqdTH9kzZ1auBmFiHQrIS3BOVzMzJ3BU2mc9LYHCSQxBpIFQ9hR68/s3024/vegan%20leather%20topstitching.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSwolCFB48gyo3O7NBeGlMTF-fY44_uF-oLmVgcXu7a0Xmhfqn9hSWUx-qAoW7PDaOMAX1xocBOE3RjrPwRjZ2KmTgjVOPUUe6DxTzvWYzD2qR__IyVQoKuFXwF69oHO5cPFBqdTH9kzZ1auBmFiHQrIS3BOVzMzJ3BU2mc9LYHCSQxBpIFQ9hR68/w400-h400/vegan%20leather%20topstitching.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I found that top and edgestitching were easier when only the wrong side of the fabric was next to the bed of the machine. So I trimmed one seam allowance to about 1/8" and left the other one flat to encase the trimmed one. This worked better. The fabric moved through the machine more easily and there was no problem with bulk because I had trimmed one seam allowance so closely.</span><br /> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOuYfDtA1PqMKip5nGWzx9PXVV5B2-t4HJh4a5_SZZYpiObOZOTsuXozX_zNWUIghXvh1BH0y4SkPbEH-3iboececjN9V6F9HVn4FtVm8ll4HhDpBM-irywtIRr4rA3eRBsVg5BWhh9yNH1wwrWmr9NBYBZin_SI4knBkySw-pbwhc4KbCjFxDNmyy/s3024/vegan%20leather%20trimmed%20seam%20allowance.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOuYfDtA1PqMKip5nGWzx9PXVV5B2-t4HJh4a5_SZZYpiObOZOTsuXozX_zNWUIghXvh1BH0y4SkPbEH-3iboececjN9V6F9HVn4FtVm8ll4HhDpBM-irywtIRr4rA3eRBsVg5BWhh9yNH1wwrWmr9NBYBZin_SI4knBkySw-pbwhc4KbCjFxDNmyy/w400-h400/vegan%20leather%20trimmed%20seam%20allowance.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">First, I tried just topstitching this seam. That worked well. Then I tried also edgestitching a portion of it, and that also worked well.</span></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiUxLX_m_CzkBP8HlIJjLQJNFLYVUgs-gwPHmssOc0GyamQx3YEOntpM5XdSzRJmV6kOZesUM3iQbAU9M9BWC_JwXLpcJ7Q9v16H8BvGzPTqnpq879-qnISLsM5lfCVldaz6E40kOcbE47THEguUlKZX2DlWLwofxRu4zecD_7uD-Q6zS9KQ-oh0EU/s3024/vegan%20leather%20matching%20thread.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiUxLX_m_CzkBP8HlIJjLQJNFLYVUgs-gwPHmssOc0GyamQx3YEOntpM5XdSzRJmV6kOZesUM3iQbAU9M9BWC_JwXLpcJ7Q9v16H8BvGzPTqnpq879-qnISLsM5lfCVldaz6E40kOcbE47THEguUlKZX2DlWLwofxRu4zecD_7uD-Q6zS9KQ-oh0EU/w640-h640/vegan%20leather%20matching%20thread.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7hQPHPV96_NtY3EOSzi4MyiJBk_CuJT6mrzj2V9Cwedg3sDU8ukfiWCEwkKmkOmbbub-gaj5FkJJX0klJRZ9OTNZeIBOar-olyeAG--RGgvpgN6f4FUx4s_BVZ_WJP0Mvtw4vmy8NeF-zZw0KyD6sxG6A0-VIZcXp26X6Q6pXcE2OF9Zyy7MVphsn/s3024/veagan%20leather%20edge%20and%20top%20stitchng.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7hQPHPV96_NtY3EOSzi4MyiJBk_CuJT6mrzj2V9Cwedg3sDU8ukfiWCEwkKmkOmbbub-gaj5FkJJX0klJRZ9OTNZeIBOar-olyeAG--RGgvpgN6f4FUx4s_BVZ_WJP0Mvtw4vmy8NeF-zZw0KyD6sxG6A0-VIZcXp26X6Q6pXcE2OF9Zyy7MVphsn/w640-h640/veagan%20leather%20edge%20and%20top%20stitchng.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">Overall, I think a couple of simple adjustments will allow you to easily use this fabric. I think a slightly slower pace is important, allowing you to help your machine do a good job. So:</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">Use a Teflon foot. Lengthen to a 3.0 stitch length. Reduce the presser foot pressure quite a bit. Experiment with your settings.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">I would choose a pattern without too many details for this fabric, which is fabulous looking and will make a beautiful garment. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">I do think seams will need to be topstitched to keep them flat, so keep that in mind as you design the look you want. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">If you need to topstitch a collar or facing, go slowly. The right side of the fabric will be against your Teflon foot and on the stitch plate of your machine on the underside of the collar. Practice on scraps first and you'll have good results.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Post your pretty garments on the Forum to inspire the rest of us!! </span><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><br /></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-58938865074413566452022-01-03T16:43:00.001-05:002023-02-03T08:25:10.485-05:00<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"> Happy New Year everyone, </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Louise has a new project for you to get 2022 started with a bang. You know how she is--coming up with great ideas so we can create unique garments. Let's take a look at the new options she has for us:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh0RViNDLD2aCN-30J9TrflCM74kJHj0yXz4TksDN2H5LsAB_udkwZX6i2vkq1OamdZmUnDbByjPZ5R_9nFkeqgE5cHS_0pClx3GmU4U00IaD0jAawbE2i6KM4lBzcyhiSjkQyXNN7hkIzdGDrtTXp5uO9GtXxXKUJ7JMc430nOQJfx08b8pM1LfSvo=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh0RViNDLD2aCN-30J9TrflCM74kJHj0yXz4TksDN2H5LsAB_udkwZX6i2vkq1OamdZmUnDbByjPZ5R_9nFkeqgE5cHS_0pClx3GmU4U00IaD0jAawbE2i6KM4lBzcyhiSjkQyXNN7hkIzdGDrtTXp5uO9GtXxXKUJ7JMc430nOQJfx08b8pM1LfSvo=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">This is <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Point-of-View-x37619533.htm" target="_blank">Point of View</a>, but what makes it special is the linen bands Louise has added to her shirt. They are linen bands on a linen shirt, to be precise. Note that on the right front the bands extend from the shoulder to the hem--that had to be done while the shirt was under construction. The band over the buttonholes had to be added once the front was constructed so it would fit properly. Then the buttonholes were stitched. The band across the front had to be added into the sleeve seam during construction, then finished later. Louise tried the shirt on to determine where that single button on the left front should be placed.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Let's see the back:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVvGbjp3Z0iTGe_xGYuR4S9TPPP45R41eCNMWXguiusyN-3vBcfDUXJ2Xcsjq3iVBfbtrdLTqBtC3CVzo4PcjxcNYpvfXAN6NjCIjxcNK9g9WUoL0dmVeRNjLuU7uztnLfIbn81nZTTzX7nfwE5pweAYOHp7oFXPtVH5lxLbtYDnLaMX4zgE4CV-3X=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVvGbjp3Z0iTGe_xGYuR4S9TPPP45R41eCNMWXguiusyN-3vBcfDUXJ2Xcsjq3iVBfbtrdLTqBtC3CVzo4PcjxcNYpvfXAN6NjCIjxcNK9g9WUoL0dmVeRNjLuU7uztnLfIbn81nZTTzX7nfwE5pweAYOHp7oFXPtVH5lxLbtYDnLaMX4zgE4CV-3X=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Again, the bands were added during construction, then finished later. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Now you have the general idea. Here's the vest Louise created:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhpE2nEzeKloT2ex-ctyTQih9eMCrp27qZkcuMAI8XHAJPqP94elWm32E9gXckKKYKbZrvBUdg8fMO0DWSWk6SvepapUbpZ8IgncJGXZ7PlJujMWahCdqlB1q0qmp7_BmkTev5u8Aiedual6CaDP9uSzF0brT-MxEWdnjvZQDN97h0tTGNWkZdGZ4TC=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhpE2nEzeKloT2ex-ctyTQih9eMCrp27qZkcuMAI8XHAJPqP94elWm32E9gXckKKYKbZrvBUdg8fMO0DWSWk6SvepapUbpZ8IgncJGXZ7PlJujMWahCdqlB1q0qmp7_BmkTev5u8Aiedual6CaDP9uSzF0brT-MxEWdnjvZQDN97h0tTGNWkZdGZ4TC=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">It's a <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Light-and-Shadow-x37619534.htm" target="_blank">Light and Shadow</a> vest using the same type of embellishment. It's not complicated, but it has a major impact on the style of the garment. Once again, the bands were added during construction, so the hems of the garment and bands were finished together. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I know you're going to want to try this fabulous look, so let's talk details. First, I'll repeat that this project is linen on linen. So choose your pattern and cut out your garment pieces. Then it's time to cut your bands. It's vital that your bands are cut on the straight of grain, across the fabric. You can easily establish a cutting line by pulling a thread, which is easy to do in linen. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">First, snip the selvedge edge of your band fabric and find a crosswise thread, like this:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEipWZWKtcy8m-iuuKX3JKzaeH5p6p-6zh9FCpTRgNaZ-yHL_5p-jpOctS5Xg1wTeEO_9ZYM66Q8eip_mlS0weksA2VWlLMQv_Kodj2qPBNVOnuFRW9pKxRsIlTQndfGcnAJ_tRrl8TBBFmCXiWARqT1HL7vBRxfOvNMlMSSjl7w3RyyRLBIiBnT5WVl=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEipWZWKtcy8m-iuuKX3JKzaeH5p6p-6zh9FCpTRgNaZ-yHL_5p-jpOctS5Xg1wTeEO_9ZYM66Q8eip_mlS0weksA2VWlLMQv_Kodj2qPBNVOnuFRW9pKxRsIlTQndfGcnAJ_tRrl8TBBFmCXiWARqT1HL7vBRxfOvNMlMSSjl7w3RyyRLBIiBnT5WVl=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">That little dark thing in the middle of the photo is the thread. Gently pull that thread while using your other hand to gather the fabric ahead of the cut--the thread will guide your straight, on-grain line. Like this:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjMny3BAFRHrFRXU5UNTugGBXTwABpVB-oxjmuB3IynJo4sPDUBYsubSH1cmnEXMAo6VRs6EpduZdEyxJqp-l10Y-55-oZTvS-HfjZqI7IjsHUBLa8qucXwdsXV2oMQ4n6h-rgGf8EXBmsGR85by1vhmagBjsDjrejjMe5lblctqNCLLRA3eDzYwN-W=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjMny3BAFRHrFRXU5UNTugGBXTwABpVB-oxjmuB3IynJo4sPDUBYsubSH1cmnEXMAo6VRs6EpduZdEyxJqp-l10Y-55-oZTvS-HfjZqI7IjsHUBLa8qucXwdsXV2oMQ4n6h-rgGf8EXBmsGR85by1vhmagBjsDjrejjMe5lblctqNCLLRA3eDzYwN-W=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Cut across the fabric on the puckered line--you'll be exactly on the crosswise grain. You can see my thread that I'm pulling, but if it breaks, I'll just pull another one on the cut edge.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Louise's bands are about 2" wide. You'll want to plan ahead. You can use bands with raw edges, as on Louise's vest, or bands with finished edges, as on her shirt. So plan your finished dimensions.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh5kc-b3PyNePbM8g3MbrJaol_7r0qgBL90H4BJK-Kf6pBfGa5ZdE9bO4vylCVFwX6PJyJPjw_B08FrLWAUFuUNg4k5CzvLA481vs8MJE1PHHLyz59xrOn4cRHkO-FajOtAitZXy_Qcvdb1rED4Yr05cY0ShF5Zexkggv9cYfcUexZH0GhHGX_AiQpZ=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh5kc-b3PyNePbM8g3MbrJaol_7r0qgBL90H4BJK-Kf6pBfGa5ZdE9bO4vylCVFwX6PJyJPjw_B08FrLWAUFuUNg4k5CzvLA481vs8MJE1PHHLyz59xrOn4cRHkO-FajOtAitZXy_Qcvdb1rED4Yr05cY0ShF5Zexkggv9cYfcUexZH0GhHGX_AiQpZ=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">For finished edges like these, add 1/4" to each side of the band over and above your finished dimension. Using a 1/4" <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Pressing-Template-x37619687.htm" target="_blank">Pressing Template</a>, press the 1/4" to the wrong side. At the end of the band, the easiest option is to leave that edge raw to avoid bulk at the corners. Lay strips of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> on the 1/4" hems, press lightly, and remove the paper backing. Place the bands where you want them and press again to fuse them. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Use an edge-stitching foot and move your needle to achieve a straight line of stitching near the edges of the bands. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Note that the diagonal band on Louise's shirt is free at the end, not pressed down. She laid the shirt flat on her worktable, smoothed everything in place, then determined the button placement and stitched her buttonhole. Also note that the diagonal band overlaps the top of the short band. It's good to look at the details of her design for more ideas.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">The vest has a different treatment:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjRfy_FvQoB_gdOw6oUZoXi7hy_MySLa6_kAAdL4VceziK9cR8fWZ0uG50AZ7WRA5Txv4dMqN6VmBrFB4MnSke812uI0toxBAOCbcCHXBpt_ahPcydzNzy5dU2AU2ylhU0neFE_MTIinV1LKtNXsEB5f8uVVbX7B6SF-YuA1KnuV2Uyr434pBLGeWLL=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjRfy_FvQoB_gdOw6oUZoXi7hy_MySLa6_kAAdL4VceziK9cR8fWZ0uG50AZ7WRA5Txv4dMqN6VmBrFB4MnSke812uI0toxBAOCbcCHXBpt_ahPcydzNzy5dU2AU2ylhU0neFE_MTIinV1LKtNXsEB5f8uVVbX7B6SF-YuA1KnuV2Uyr434pBLGeWLL=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">These bands have raw edges. It's critical to cut them on the straight grain so your fringe on the edges is even, but as you could see above, it's easy to pull threads for straight cut edges. Again, lay Steam-a-Seam on the wrong side, leaving a margin at the edges for the width of the fringe you want. Press lightly and remove the paper backing. Align the bands on the garment pieces where you want them and press to fuse. Again, choose a presser foot that will help you stitch in a straight line. Use a short stitch (2.0 stitch length) to stitch the bands in place.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Here's how the hem works:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgO-4wNTa7SCtyuhJoOjS2xL19BTa5xPEGL59rmJmPY4BriW0dM_EeZlLsfFe5h-ysoj8pr06CfQ9_2dR-c6Hl0w2dHbEmsB4E8X0FLbrwDhbHjKP-RpEd-0jr8lGgCgUC29T_J_ErN1CIeHEm4v34jyWQmAybwhYD_62UXGgknjmfUbuwoLQ1tQzMB=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgO-4wNTa7SCtyuhJoOjS2xL19BTa5xPEGL59rmJmPY4BriW0dM_EeZlLsfFe5h-ysoj8pr06CfQ9_2dR-c6Hl0w2dHbEmsB4E8X0FLbrwDhbHjKP-RpEd-0jr8lGgCgUC29T_J_ErN1CIeHEm4v34jyWQmAybwhYD_62UXGgknjmfUbuwoLQ1tQzMB=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">The bands just become part of the garment and are treated as one with the garment fabric and hem.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Let's take another look at the back of the shirt:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVvGbjp3Z0iTGe_xGYuR4S9TPPP45R41eCNMWXguiusyN-3vBcfDUXJ2Xcsjq3iVBfbtrdLTqBtC3CVzo4PcjxcNYpvfXAN6NjCIjxcNK9g9WUoL0dmVeRNjLuU7uztnLfIbn81nZTTzX7nfwE5pweAYOHp7oFXPtVH5lxLbtYDnLaMX4zgE4CV-3X=s4032" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVvGbjp3Z0iTGe_xGYuR4S9TPPP45R41eCNMWXguiusyN-3vBcfDUXJ2Xcsjq3iVBfbtrdLTqBtC3CVzo4PcjxcNYpvfXAN6NjCIjxcNK9g9WUoL0dmVeRNjLuU7uztnLfIbn81nZTTzX7nfwE5pweAYOHp7oFXPtVH5lxLbtYDnLaMX4zgE4CV-3X=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I think that the impact of this fairly simple embellishment is way beyond the effort needed to create it. I hope you'll all give this a try, and that you'll post your garment on our Facebook Forum to inspire others to try this technique.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Have fun,</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Sandy</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"> </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-50761254025172471022021-12-01T13:44:00.000-05:002021-12-01T13:44:02.787-05:00<p> <span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I hope you've already read my previous post in which I explained the applique process Louise used to make her sensational <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Light-and-Shadow-x37619534.htm" target="_blank">Light and Shadow</a> vests. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">In this post, I'll show you photos of her second vest. They'll give you more ideas. Then I'll explain how she created her faux sashiko stitching. First, the pieces of the vest with applique and stitching.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Here's the Right Front. Louise used a black and white print, cutting it to show various motifs. She also used a yellow print.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjZ_Dux8l3SBwETMkQkCV5E3czMHcf1w8ZQsdB9vGePjT9EaXEeo4SnIoxF7ATcQ3UyTqpKgGEENHOkM1udkjq3RAuPtovnZO35sx2IBGSvidAzTamr2f2yCkrnh1Xn2GP-Rd78Hr64WBd0QQWPRfVcmhYQtvHI5hoszqRdoVVaMJR5sL9mEZ4PGUsj=s640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjZ_Dux8l3SBwETMkQkCV5E3czMHcf1w8ZQsdB9vGePjT9EaXEeo4SnIoxF7ATcQ3UyTqpKgGEENHOkM1udkjq3RAuPtovnZO35sx2IBGSvidAzTamr2f2yCkrnh1Xn2GP-Rd78Hr64WBd0QQWPRfVcmhYQtvHI5hoszqRdoVVaMJR5sL9mEZ4PGUsj=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">And the Left Front. Note that there's no applique where the Left Front will slide under the Right Front.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh_-kcQMopk8WmNjD7X2hGDXGT39BYkF84FvKJ43ptHytJClZtJtHA8RWAcPf6ZWslT0fAD7Sy-NaFxg2uPvjPSwfQKo87EIZVE1XvHl2qVFoPIuGBIUgt15fWZ59qINpIsSc_BJ3NtQbJfWtzbLPQiTgAF1M2TFDQLS1pXUrjih0j_tUGAMBVZXbWP=s640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh_-kcQMopk8WmNjD7X2hGDXGT39BYkF84FvKJ43ptHytJClZtJtHA8RWAcPf6ZWslT0fAD7Sy-NaFxg2uPvjPSwfQKo87EIZVE1XvHl2qVFoPIuGBIUgt15fWZ59qINpIsSc_BJ3NtQbJfWtzbLPQiTgAF1M2TFDQLS1pXUrjih0j_tUGAMBVZXbWP=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Here's a detail of the cowl. </span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg_f4gsM1YycCO7EraaYvjl6chdmmc6WW9e65fHSxF85wabtdmJek879u9WbDxYZkRGNrOpohVsPa4XBRyV2046OgBQYqKZrnjx10qQ8ewjcsoJoKXUrE-S8NmY7cNFFK5JH-KghgFflZ2MzACZYUYSEzOHGZa9tDGpGTkN4sPGglWtPDfS7tNkzjR5=s640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg_f4gsM1YycCO7EraaYvjl6chdmmc6WW9e65fHSxF85wabtdmJek879u9WbDxYZkRGNrOpohVsPa4XBRyV2046OgBQYqKZrnjx10qQ8ewjcsoJoKXUrE-S8NmY7cNFFK5JH-KghgFflZ2MzACZYUYSEzOHGZa9tDGpGTkN4sPGglWtPDfS7tNkzjR5=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Two close-up photos to show you details:</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhrq0LzRQrS9_SwwK-IP9i763fB9bIgjJFj0ehq_ap8LO5BnimbM0UkOFIXhYx4TysbB-iPI3OXnijHTN9EQh9SQChTTFWczlh5Y4P1u535R6ghmqOzuLb3nZTg6sxDcOmOm4lxPPYSxOHE_cw-RsQUkl_j9CEv2BRwC4EFw_rj9k6GyhfvCwtV0xVD=s640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhrq0LzRQrS9_SwwK-IP9i763fB9bIgjJFj0ehq_ap8LO5BnimbM0UkOFIXhYx4TysbB-iPI3OXnijHTN9EQh9SQChTTFWczlh5Y4P1u535R6ghmqOzuLb3nZTg6sxDcOmOm4lxPPYSxOHE_cw-RsQUkl_j9CEv2BRwC4EFw_rj9k6GyhfvCwtV0xVD=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhlpchAHKlSXVCeLh6wTC-eYxeYTToImaVWWUHbVpOnq7KR08Ypp-e1c56ZDHYyj-bacmBmu7Bl4UdkkPFFvEC0KaB9te3cmfQ-SXzNdhXVJWRQFuFxjwnlerUzLoXGGTIC34aPG7lYy_4QHgs1syFO0xDfIj2iCrn9SXrdVx2vSeY-MQbpbP-WRO1u=s640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhlpchAHKlSXVCeLh6wTC-eYxeYTToImaVWWUHbVpOnq7KR08Ypp-e1c56ZDHYyj-bacmBmu7Bl4UdkkPFFvEC0KaB9te3cmfQ-SXzNdhXVJWRQFuFxjwnlerUzLoXGGTIC34aPG7lYy_4QHgs1syFO0xDfIj2iCrn9SXrdVx2vSeY-MQbpbP-WRO1u=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Now I'll explain the steps to achieve the faux sashiko stitching. First, you'll need thread. Louise used 6 strands of DMC embroidery thread. She did not separate the strands at all, but used them just as they were. She advises using a crewel or tapestry needle, since those are sharp and have large eyes to accommodate the 6 strands.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Prepare the vest pieces for the stitching. On each piece, consider how lines of stitching will help the appliques relate to each other. Use a straight and/or fashion ruler to mark straight or curved lines, using her vest for inspiration. Use <b>white</b> chalk (from a <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Chalkoner-x37619557.htm" target="_blank">Chalkoner</a>) as your marker. (Colored chalk may not all come off your fabric.)</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Next, thread your machine with typical <b>white</b> thread. Using a <b>6.0 stitch length</b>, stitch along your chalked lines. Be sure to use this stitch length, as it will help you with your sashiko. Again, consult the photos. Louise also stitched over some appliques. Look carefully--she changed colors where she stitched over an applique. She really considers the details!</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">You're ready for sashiko. Thread your crewel or tapestry needle with a length of the DMC 6-strand thread. Knot the end. Bring your needle up from the wrong side at the end of a line of machine basting. Let the DMC remain on the right side of the fabric for the length of 1 white basting stitch. Take your needle down to the wrong side, skip the length of the next white basting stitch, and come up again to repeat. So your sashiko will show beside every other basting stitch. At the end of the line, make a knot on the back. Have fun! </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Be careful to avoid catching the white machine basting. When your sashiko is complete, remove the basting. The white thread will not leave any marks on your fabric.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Here are the front and back of this second <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Light-and-Shadow-x37619534.htm" target="_blank">Light and Shadow</a> vest.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjF0p-aC20lLuBZ19Sux7mSgHR62mujStkiZQ3HG_3YL-yPHns-N7fx20v4nGz5ro519LfGdsoSKw0SmkB3CqX_u1oqNoELcYwdpUpARQlBpjROuEUdLu5HNxq5wpfXDipDsCzDXGXp6PPoR0XXrOYiOPALk6acDrD0rwN9XxFgKcMI-_UwcFH0_oHr=s640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjF0p-aC20lLuBZ19Sux7mSgHR62mujStkiZQ3HG_3YL-yPHns-N7fx20v4nGz5ro519LfGdsoSKw0SmkB3CqX_u1oqNoELcYwdpUpARQlBpjROuEUdLu5HNxq5wpfXDipDsCzDXGXp6PPoR0XXrOYiOPALk6acDrD0rwN9XxFgKcMI-_UwcFH0_oHr=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjhiv1mXdl7bhAXGUmdVdzBgiH8TawcHNPx2uTVaKyvflBjMDt6sD9UvqS84WW1mosDgl31I3J30BCXafgIWI5hU1ic1LlGKWd58R4vkl-8msYRhr-CrKAem9eFBDgOUa1RppLw8hsArjF2cKJW0VEqM6kLsKvufDqxG1ldLwrjZnAoy-HwHncrGmhO=s640" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjhiv1mXdl7bhAXGUmdVdzBgiH8TawcHNPx2uTVaKyvflBjMDt6sD9UvqS84WW1mosDgl31I3J30BCXafgIWI5hU1ic1LlGKWd58R4vkl-8msYRhr-CrKAem9eFBDgOUa1RppLw8hsArjF2cKJW0VEqM6kLsKvufDqxG1ldLwrjZnAoy-HwHncrGmhO=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">We hope you'll give this project a try. You'll have a piece of art when you're done, and you can try designing other projects using the same techniques. Other sewers will be amazed!</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-28184235172829956402021-11-28T15:57:00.001-05:002021-11-28T17:02:19.283-05:00<p><span style="font-size: large;"> Hello all you creative sewers out there,</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">This blog post is going to show you a fabulous project. It's one of Louise's inventions; she taught it at 2 ASG Conferences and at a retreat or two. Now we'd like to show you how it all works, so you can do it yourself at home. We've had many requests to teach this again in person, but we decided to extend the how-to's for <u>all </u>of you instead.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Louise based her vest on our <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Light-and-Shadow-x37619534.htm" target="_blank">Light and Shadow</a> pattern. She used the usual pattern pieces to create her vest. The special part of this is the applique and the faux sashiko stitching she designed with. In this post, I'll show you step by step photos of how she created the unique look. Please read through the entire blog so you'll understand the process before you start.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">She cut out the vest pieces from linen. Then she chose a print (use linen or cotton) to cut up for her applique pieces. This one had so many colors in the print that she only needed one fabric for all the appliques. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Let's see the vest, so you can see how fabulous this project can look. Here's the finished vest back:</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhuI29y_3IlaHuipQlSqCINX2xutclHB7efNNdIZRcXrqKVRenCaXXkv0-_FEFY57D-WG1-ElqCL_vmFH9bb2zje-qbflnIbYBYVbskPOI7dSl1b4dLY65HTCzMUzEeHoZXE6WKmPWPM5ft9jk0F4ytlep5jzrgQSrr7peDm356kHHEMdd4KRr3X_yr=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhuI29y_3IlaHuipQlSqCINX2xutclHB7efNNdIZRcXrqKVRenCaXXkv0-_FEFY57D-WG1-ElqCL_vmFH9bb2zje-qbflnIbYBYVbskPOI7dSl1b4dLY65HTCzMUzEeHoZXE6WKmPWPM5ft9jk0F4ytlep5jzrgQSrr7peDm356kHHEMdd4KRr3X_yr=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><p><br /></p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">And the finished front: right front over left front. You can see how the cowl drapes in this photo.</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgJ7cR9v2q4BVojkFLAwI6BUsyHQoI_yW94Uwj6ECQISv5T4AEG5J5zLMb5-qLG5IcmxtuncVZ5rnDBCaA-3dqCcGz-yblzjA1PVEJVyGXrpPL34k1XPb3Qx4cAp7b6xl4OuJ5_eM2cZFZU4RMhxH-cwxPrKbByVQHvOeydF85s5PhOJ-UXmzXEFEWO=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgJ7cR9v2q4BVojkFLAwI6BUsyHQoI_yW94Uwj6ECQISv5T4AEG5J5zLMb5-qLG5IcmxtuncVZ5rnDBCaA-3dqCcGz-yblzjA1PVEJVyGXrpPL34k1XPb3Qx4cAp7b6xl4OuJ5_eM2cZFZU4RMhxH-cwxPrKbByVQHvOeydF85s5PhOJ-UXmzXEFEWO=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">You can also see that she didn't fussy cut individual shapes from the print. Instead, she cut circles and blocks in interesting shapes, even cutting through some individual motifs in the fabric. Take a close look to see what I mean. Also note that some small appliques slide just a bit under the edges of larger appliques. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Here's the back laid flat on the table to give you a clearer view:</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgB6wqKBNi99CGX-ENxSRD5OnoTu35NwKOz_n0wPNNqp0uZsyGm_orZQZ33EGoset6NCBNw52mPUJruyU0MRKXuyBosaaNiiKWqAlBFCtq5E18VbKtuxyr1cTtheLMQa3NJxKcDui7rIm8ycpkEcKWfEcSA0OX0lawyk5MAk9WEEeXuPvYNHPQsvWxV=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgB6wqKBNi99CGX-ENxSRD5OnoTu35NwKOz_n0wPNNqp0uZsyGm_orZQZ33EGoset6NCBNw52mPUJruyU0MRKXuyBosaaNiiKWqAlBFCtq5E18VbKtuxyr1cTtheLMQa3NJxKcDui7rIm8ycpkEcKWfEcSA0OX0lawyk5MAk9WEEeXuPvYNHPQsvWxV=s16000" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I'll point out a few details, then explain how the process works. Note the little tabs tucked under the circle at the upper right. Below that is a long strip with a short strip tucked under it near the top, and on its left a triangular shape with one edge tucked under. Three blocks on the left overlap each other slightly, with 2 small shapes added. On the left side seam edge is a strip folded double, with its folded edge extending onto the back piece. When the side seam is sewn, the raw edges will be caught in the seam, while the folded edge will extend from the seam. (I'll address the faux sashiko stitching later.)</span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Let's talk about how this works. Cut out your vest pieces and set then aside for a few minutes. Lay out your applique fabric(s) and just look them over. Begin cutting out shapes: squares, rectangles, strips of varying lengths and widths, circles, half circles, etc. It's more effective to keep the designs abstract, focused on the colors, than to fussy-cut flowers, leaves, or other motifs. Once you have lots of shapes, begin laying some of them on a vest piece, moving them around until you like the overall look. Here's Louise's preliminary layout on the back. You can see the raw edges of her applique pieces.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgOtvMUY1y5kzhCIL6GJfiuev5Uc4sHlIntW_PWSDWxD9JpAcSDrNwx2llgd30Rm9ImQKk3fdrMKWPI80kHHDGULBkrSzjGdoY4YsJ4xRUqTy8nhec9szKwvGf_pUIHPujww8WYaOkpcmce6Cx_cOkkaqTiWq5ALUZG6DsegUTXubgE-XCEDDa-ZAQi=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgOtvMUY1y5kzhCIL6GJfiuev5Uc4sHlIntW_PWSDWxD9JpAcSDrNwx2llgd30Rm9ImQKk3fdrMKWPI80kHHDGULBkrSzjGdoY4YsJ4xRUqTy8nhec9szKwvGf_pUIHPujww8WYaOkpcmce6Cx_cOkkaqTiWq5ALUZG6DsegUTXubgE-XCEDDa-ZAQi=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Another view of the back. Note that the small pieces that will eventually tuck under the larger pieces are on top at this stage.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiCtXftB0iyn7SanR5NF65S-HzTlA7FFomJqa5FX8TT5YvNeAgFuH5PpUmAUjOj1Ja4CNw_IvvYeHL6-m460CmooDcAIAAwwjELJuSWkbhNwMBX95MH_ZfZUZ27E202yt91__PMfxT72CygH6STQ2gJg5LGb2K3W4Hja9bQDDbHN1O-eZ0ct2SRGgBE=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiCtXftB0iyn7SanR5NF65S-HzTlA7FFomJqa5FX8TT5YvNeAgFuH5PpUmAUjOj1Ja4CNw_IvvYeHL6-m460CmooDcAIAAwwjELJuSWkbhNwMBX95MH_ZfZUZ27E202yt91__PMfxT72CygH6STQ2gJg5LGb2K3W4Hja9bQDDbHN1O-eZ0ct2SRGgBE=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">This photo shows that folded piece at the side seam. She eventually shortened this to keep it out of the miter.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiASrMoDm7Ln_8ryzB1BW2O4dHR9ABstiGIUYtzAeFvZQmiJLaf4o5uDYzrJn5bkXcdgp2zvSJIofLVM579nJ6SrTS0uy8q6jKTV8HFiuA6uXK-vyaqqYr1zIRrnhmKAA2Ykof2ZMhCmGXYO-Q5tF1zgeLzpzXu7Dgdmk0Cq_zhz9tB-NCzStV37Vsl=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiASrMoDm7Ln_8ryzB1BW2O4dHR9ABstiGIUYtzAeFvZQmiJLaf4o5uDYzrJn5bkXcdgp2zvSJIofLVM579nJ6SrTS0uy8q6jKTV8HFiuA6uXK-vyaqqYr1zIRrnhmKAA2Ykof2ZMhCmGXYO-Q5tF1zgeLzpzXu7Dgdmk0Cq_zhz9tB-NCzStV37Vsl=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Once you've finished your applique layout on a vest piece, <b>take a photo to help you remember your design</b>. Also, put pins around each shape so you'll put it back in the same place as before. Like this:</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjX0fSdxyGf7ALjdK2GBD273TMrBusNtTC7ZOzJCfFePTKOJF4-76YMKRWaXPLpqwR6u2hMHQfgbsb8JBJX4poN2xjMZVRDLWvCaz9KNqtuuARsXUAmCugVvFrznK5ocJqhI0SGtFY29M68LmTFwaf-G2FOvw1b3jeJN2mWRFRDovYrUYOH8OQWxhac=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjX0fSdxyGf7ALjdK2GBD273TMrBusNtTC7ZOzJCfFePTKOJF4-76YMKRWaXPLpqwR6u2hMHQfgbsb8JBJX4poN2xjMZVRDLWvCaz9KNqtuuARsXUAmCugVvFrznK5ocJqhI0SGtFY29M68LmTFwaf-G2FOvw1b3jeJN2mWRFRDovYrUYOH8OQWxhac=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"> Above is a photo of the cowl with pins marking the location of each applique. Keep all your applique pieces near center front of the cowl. (At the sides and back, you'll want to allow the cowl to fold down on itself; appliques would make it too stiff there.) Once you've marked placements with pins, remove the pieces. You'll have this:</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiX9BN1tV2SvVnOzfNz9-LMckwNEVgGTIyFIy7Vl8RqLImtwTrn5ctv6yWtZuTKwcbyIMFAobuOXS29GVaxQevKxszEbBk9NwlUhc50mHEOPApExLEFdsGMmvhCP2TGx_fQnrcDsTDoerISOoEbzK3vuHGbJIHUrqxTXswYj1E2XWCVnYXbzlnkngFL=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiX9BN1tV2SvVnOzfNz9-LMckwNEVgGTIyFIy7Vl8RqLImtwTrn5ctv6yWtZuTKwcbyIMFAobuOXS29GVaxQevKxszEbBk9NwlUhc50mHEOPApExLEFdsGMmvhCP2TGx_fQnrcDsTDoerISOoEbzK3vuHGbJIHUrqxTXswYj1E2XWCVnYXbzlnkngFL=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><b>NOTE</b>: Place your Right Front vest piece on top of the Left Front vest piece. Use chalk to mark the edge of the Right Front on the Left Front. You won't need any applique on the Left Front where it lies under the Right Front. Here are Louise's right and left fronts with their preliminary placements.</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiBw8v0EorX76Uzr07Dnez-4pLEj_0IKAvNNWbiVfTy4k985czcIRVN12jrtOjWGIESiyI6noC1ZrnzBKCtaLFC_DPIztEOsE1yrnDoZ7tlajs4CvcrUPBgW1-rayR1GMktfCpw1ldXnS3w9QAPwE9Z6PDGtBJJENwFi9s1sTjl6J8W-Gnx-DbRNc12=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiBw8v0EorX76Uzr07Dnez-4pLEj_0IKAvNNWbiVfTy4k985czcIRVN12jrtOjWGIESiyI6noC1ZrnzBKCtaLFC_DPIztEOsE1yrnDoZ7tlajs4CvcrUPBgW1-rayR1GMktfCpw1ldXnS3w9QAPwE9Z6PDGtBJJENwFi9s1sTjl6J8W-Gnx-DbRNc12=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiAsJadX79SB8knEBitDKdiy9Ll16ChREKFNlHwAKVEu4pY8-SyvjprI4mXXb-oCCgkjD1QpIh_LITsX-SjSqAxKxzAtS396Ihnyw5o3uUaKtFgbbYAjjsmEXnc0yS-IgD_-8NMBN-blyVO8LJ2Cto5inPgtLHLCdFSxH2HYbt9e92yxtU4xsJpNLN1=s640" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiAsJadX79SB8knEBitDKdiy9Ll16ChREKFNlHwAKVEu4pY8-SyvjprI4mXXb-oCCgkjD1QpIh_LITsX-SjSqAxKxzAtS396Ihnyw5o3uUaKtFgbbYAjjsmEXnc0yS-IgD_-8NMBN-blyVO8LJ2Cto5inPgtLHLCdFSxH2HYbt9e92yxtU4xsJpNLN1=w480-h640" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">The next step is to deal with the edges of the appliques. First, let's talk about the circles. Make 2 templates from file folders or similar materials. One will be the size of a circle you want to cut. Make the second template 1/4" smaller all the way around; you'll use it to press the raw edges under. Staystitch, using a regular stitch length, all the way around each fabric circle, 1/4" from the raw edge. Lay the fabric circle wrong side up on the ironing board with the smaller circle template centered on it. Carefully press a 1/4" hem over the small template to give the fabric circle a finished edge. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Also staystitch 1/4" from the raw edges of all the other shapes. Use a <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Pressing-Template-x37619687.htm" target="_blank">Pressing Template</a> to press a 1/4" hem on all edges of each shape, except where an edge of a small piece will extend under a larger piece. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Once all your raw edges are pressed under, place strips of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> on the 1/4" hems, sticky side down (pieces are wrong side up on the ironing board). Press lightly, then remove the paper backing. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Using the pins for reference, begin placing the appliques right side up in the placements marked by the pins. Of course, each piece is slightly smaller now because of the hems, but your placement will be just about the same. Also refer to the photos you took as you did the preliminary outline on each vest piece.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Once you're satisfied with your placements, press each applique piece to keep it in place. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Using a 2.5 or 2.0 stitch length and matching thread, edgestitch each applique shape. I find a blind hem foot, adjustable blind hem foot, or edge joining foot works well, along with moving the needle.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">At this point, your applique design is finished. In the next blog post, I'll address the faux sashiko stitching.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></p><p><br /></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-86185018381484775482021-09-23T15:27:00.001-04:002021-09-23T15:27:14.174-04:00<p> <span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">We're almost there, everyone,</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">When I ended the previous blog, I had just sewn the sleeve seam, leaving 2" open at each end of the seam, like this:</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5bpBVPbMuyWMoKk5EBZSiPhtkGN-S9u0VlJEGKnhsx5wkGMA5rO4xDVPo9Igohx-_ZSTMvHTGrgll0XN9-wyNkMEjNIcZVmfpo1R7XH3MIYLoNTjISptDNPwO_5F4X2_LRUfTLezIo4/s2048/open+2+inches+at+sleeve+seam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5bpBVPbMuyWMoKk5EBZSiPhtkGN-S9u0VlJEGKnhsx5wkGMA5rO4xDVPo9Igohx-_ZSTMvHTGrgll0XN9-wyNkMEjNIcZVmfpo1R7XH3MIYLoNTjISptDNPwO_5F4X2_LRUfTLezIo4/w480-h640/open+2+inches+at+sleeve+seam.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Now let's move on. It's time to stitch the underarm sleeve seam from the raw hem edge (unfold the hems you've pressed earlier) to the dots at the underarm. Be sure to match those dots accurately. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Then stitch the side seam from the matched dots at the underarm to the matched dots at the top of the side vent.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">(Let me interject something here. In all our instructions, we suggest that you keep the paper pattern pieces with the fabric pieces you have cut. Then the first step for each Front, Pocket, Sleeve etc. is to mark clips and dots. You probably did that when you originally cut the pieces, but we remind you. As you move on to each new garment section, you can quickly check that you have all the markings completed. If not, you can do it before you sew that section. It's much easier to mark while everything is flat, and you have the pattern right there, rather than folded away in the envelope.)</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Ok, here's how the shirt looks once you've completed those seams. The pressed underarm sleeve seam is to the right, the pressed side seam is to the left, and the hole in the middle results from leaving 2" open at each end of the sleeve seam.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZAtQfeev2M96JPbJ4HskVf3ODCt2C3OMMWPX-3kkprxNggBPQeYOUyR7YN0DjStH-hPGkHnYCETDK05lQnp-7AZv2qipVcThj_GlOPmkmDq6i3icq_aN4i8JFrpyXqVvE6CASPD9xWI/s2048/pressed+seams+with+open+underarm+corner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZAtQfeev2M96JPbJ4HskVf3ODCt2C3OMMWPX-3kkprxNggBPQeYOUyR7YN0DjStH-hPGkHnYCETDK05lQnp-7AZv2qipVcThj_GlOPmkmDq6i3icq_aN4i8JFrpyXqVvE6CASPD9xWI/w480-h640/pressed+seams+with+open+underarm+corner.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Turn the sleeve right side out so it's inside the garment, which remains wrong side out. Match the side and underarm seams at the dots, like this:</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijV1_o_oGQyxCcezWm_wEtp0nZXiVxTrUWgYscnc7x0HVCJlZnouuSdqChGmSIq5m6ofaiQIsNYMV1iD0mlAGPgV6L_rqGlMcpyKcb-JpIG2-FsIG7l1aoJB4z4Jz1-uXRMFetBhNu-VE/s2048/matching+underarm+corners.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijV1_o_oGQyxCcezWm_wEtp0nZXiVxTrUWgYscnc7x0HVCJlZnouuSdqChGmSIq5m6ofaiQIsNYMV1iD0mlAGPgV6L_rqGlMcpyKcb-JpIG2-FsIG7l1aoJB4z4Jz1-uXRMFetBhNu-VE/w480-h640/matching+underarm+corners.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">It's important to get the dots (where your stitching stopped) matched precisely.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Now fold back all the seam allowances so they are together and moved to one side of the seams. I put a pin through one dot, then look to see that it's through the dot on the other side. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get it right.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOhtkDHVZK9AUTAtmhjmQbKEfJQFsHlItTRigCMrhndDFEObHX_JCTm1xRrcp02qJYQVi26kACdu6mu6mdHZV9CBtchtif-WagnBlIAm3eTOvX7z7EHxjwx9AZcJAmjIVdW_eFkib1DIU/s2048/match+dots+at+underarm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOhtkDHVZK9AUTAtmhjmQbKEfJQFsHlItTRigCMrhndDFEObHX_JCTm1xRrcp02qJYQVi26kACdu6mu6mdHZV9CBtchtif-WagnBlIAm3eTOvX7z7EHxjwx9AZcJAmjIVdW_eFkib1DIU/w480-h640/match+dots+at+underarm.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Once your dots are perfectly matched, pin to hold everything in place and stitch from where your previous sleeve seam ended to the dot, securing your stitching at the dot. </span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw-HBmV13JxmGxZgMqlrKrfKHT9pbnovdDkww4CN8NapF34JV7oLm0RSJ9Oxi2MF2RpjTzE2Ch4bgdz_xDRUz4Fz1_SCCTE17gI9VON-0zYCkfWuLqEVUv1-wN0udqhZLefTlQ0kRMan8/s2048/AEA+underarm+corner+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw-HBmV13JxmGxZgMqlrKrfKHT9pbnovdDkww4CN8NapF34JV7oLm0RSJ9Oxi2MF2RpjTzE2Ch4bgdz_xDRUz4Fz1_SCCTE17gI9VON-0zYCkfWuLqEVUv1-wN0udqhZLefTlQ0kRMan8/w480-h640/AEA+underarm+corner+1.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Repeat folding the seam allowances back and stitching the open portion of the sleeve seam on the other side.</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JWXl1NwVeHRBG_0-6xPVRxoqtyv8h2wNZGqChOWVIjD4a8Tysy-Xtm2bE1NUDlKE_edha5IOZjTOVmddp8AiRBslcWF7SPQafG_PY6m7t4WZ778FX4rIByg0aP87J5u0iW2VzAos-cI/s2048/AEA+underarm+corner+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5JWXl1NwVeHRBG_0-6xPVRxoqtyv8h2wNZGqChOWVIjD4a8Tysy-Xtm2bE1NUDlKE_edha5IOZjTOVmddp8AiRBslcWF7SPQafG_PY6m7t4WZ778FX4rIByg0aP87J5u0iW2VzAos-cI/w300-h400/AEA+underarm+corner+2.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwYVHs8zgkbTne5ul3jLja2xCgGA1e6YZbJlNZ-tbsIOy1mD8u9vGQ326K1yIjMpM4D99rDeEMNhO27-qmPKoFHK6vEnVCiyMdH_FE3ot86h2Nzfh0bR0M5-v5z47dx23MC7xslC1m1Ho/s2048/AEA+underarm+corner+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwYVHs8zgkbTne5ul3jLja2xCgGA1e6YZbJlNZ-tbsIOy1mD8u9vGQ326K1yIjMpM4D99rDeEMNhO27-qmPKoFHK6vEnVCiyMdH_FE3ot86h2Nzfh0bR0M5-v5z47dx23MC7xslC1m1Ho/w480-h640/AEA+underarm+corner+3.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Now you're ready to serge the sleeve seams. Note that the underarm and side seam allowances are still free. That's the whole idea--they allow the garment to drape properly when worn. They don't pull or pucker.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixq3txyx7f6FmkW6y3A0VWOssjn5MEOjqSC2WCYSvExociAbPjM2xvBqYxV5YUh8DhJjd-nXTRPpn-H-PtMrkAb5T-FR6E5679tnBsA-oO32BYcxLKcJIrDtMcBFidOg5ZuL03-M-cnyg/s2048/AEA+underarm+corners+sewn+ready+for+serging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixq3txyx7f6FmkW6y3A0VWOssjn5MEOjqSC2WCYSvExociAbPjM2xvBqYxV5YUh8DhJjd-nXTRPpn-H-PtMrkAb5T-FR6E5679tnBsA-oO32BYcxLKcJIrDtMcBFidOg5ZuL03-M-cnyg/w480-h640/AEA+underarm+corners+sewn+ready+for+serging.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Fold down the seam allowances on one side, and begin your serging on the other side:</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs4gyvufrOZXPlyqlT_ixEHCWMRYjcKW0HlgIOEF147urGpINMOdWTO6tIqkOqQ5XQM4wcj3zik08Du_YEOuYQLMdEb_zVOteC0UAI5bH9maVTa_tkKADGm9xzugNMJV-jZnME2a36F-E/s2048/AEA+underarm+corner+fold+for+serging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs4gyvufrOZXPlyqlT_ixEHCWMRYjcKW0HlgIOEF147urGpINMOdWTO6tIqkOqQ5XQM4wcj3zik08Du_YEOuYQLMdEb_zVOteC0UAI5bH9maVTa_tkKADGm9xzugNMJV-jZnME2a36F-E/w480-h640/AEA+underarm+corner+fold+for+serging.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Begin serging on the seam allowances that remain upright, trimming them to 3/8". Serge all the way around the sleeve. When you approach the end, fold down the seam allowance where you started. Your result will look like this--</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiclOTxiweKpVgaRxYOyYB8_-mJc-5kLzZzIzVyj3EQ44_c_cn2OAcf1TDX4PuE8xPzonxkSgkR3_QZYibmPp-1ad1ZuW4XVauXN3xoLTZJXhwdvGAqkm7lSW9J6zY9qlbttKg2DzkB7_c/s2048/AEA+underarm+serging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiclOTxiweKpVgaRxYOyYB8_-mJc-5kLzZzIzVyj3EQ44_c_cn2OAcf1TDX4PuE8xPzonxkSgkR3_QZYibmPp-1ad1ZuW4XVauXN3xoLTZJXhwdvGAqkm7lSW9J6zY9qlbttKg2DzkB7_c/w640-h480/AEA+underarm+serging.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">This technique is used in several of our patterns, and now you know the details of how to complete this unique finish.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Next time, I'll review a few items for finishing your new shirt.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-80866673919963038772021-09-21T17:08:00.000-04:002021-09-21T17:08:09.126-04:00<p> <span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Greetings again, everyone,</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Let's move on to stitching the sleeves in the View B shirt from <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/At-Every-Angle-x37619710.htm" target="_blank">At Every Angle</a>. By the way, much of what I'm talking about can apply to other patterns in our Cutting Line Designs line of patterns. So carry this info with you as you work on other shirts.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">The pattern instructions tell you to serge both vertical edges of the sleeves. It's best to serge from the underarm corner to the hem. If you go in the other direction, you are working against the grain and you'll stretch the edge of the sleeve.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Then you can press the hem edges. In this case, there are 2 folds so you end up with a clean finish. First, a 3/8" fold, using one of our <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Pressing-Template-x37619687.htm" target="_blank">Pressing Templates</a>. (My bad; imagine this turned 90 degrees!)</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxLa0iBVW8tq0IUQCzeZRPgLh4KyIrG0wyzxMJbkVPWBjw38JE8QcpXTOkEQtkr_0pgzobs9R0a9xkhr1oudR7SpotGgHnQ-ePeij6XxdJFpDB_ORlv8ODjEtZNI3KKrMBxjJivB2UoZM/s2048/first+hem+fold+over+template.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxLa0iBVW8tq0IUQCzeZRPgLh4KyIrG0wyzxMJbkVPWBjw38JE8QcpXTOkEQtkr_0pgzobs9R0a9xkhr1oudR7SpotGgHnQ-ePeij6XxdJFpDB_ORlv8ODjEtZNI3KKrMBxjJivB2UoZM/w480-h640/first+hem+fold+over+template.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Then use the same Template to press a 2" hem (all the Templates are 2" wide). I like to press the hems while the sleeves are flat, even if I have to touch up a bit later.</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5YzcED-7JQc9KLz2QrJzhDvl2fYzXR-FA0nltGgHD5ImIrOomRZOuhL4LgJElKwQvI010dXmZHACJXURBl6FBo3Ui2qFhcofyTA7tBeV6OVy3bqWNzoXKqTaXrHrrsh-vHEbb2wIjYoc/s2048/2+inch+fold+over+template.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5YzcED-7JQc9KLz2QrJzhDvl2fYzXR-FA0nltGgHD5ImIrOomRZOuhL4LgJElKwQvI010dXmZHACJXURBl6FBo3Ui2qFhcofyTA7tBeV6OVy3bqWNzoXKqTaXrHrrsh-vHEbb2wIjYoc/w480-h640/2+inch+fold+over+template.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Now you're ready to pin the sleeve into the garment. As I've explained before, you are working with a concave edge (the garment) and a convex edge (the sleeve). So the cut edge of the sleeve is longer than the cut edge of the garment. However, the stitching line is the same length on the garment and the sleeve. That's why you will find it easiest to pin in a certain way. Let's look:</span><p></p><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhukxKP1-0Prjqce1sNFFiaVdM9ywHI2rBtS2gZDeFDTkADCSizMd8FCpmS0vzJlauI0kzRGKroGKSwmbWf1qib_1bDA_SkvF6VgREuHv9n6orHxfWsaITBApnqMdLq5moQOtHoevsCSWk/s2048/pinning+at+stitching+line.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhukxKP1-0Prjqce1sNFFiaVdM9ywHI2rBtS2gZDeFDTkADCSizMd8FCpmS0vzJlauI0kzRGKroGKSwmbWf1qib_1bDA_SkvF6VgREuHv9n6orHxfWsaITBApnqMdLq5moQOtHoevsCSWk/w640-h480/pinning+at+stitching+line.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Note that the pins catch only a few threads right at the stitching line. That's where the sleeve and the garment are the same. The different edges can do what they need to. (See the May 20 blog for more.) By the way, <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/The-Best-Glasshead-Dressmaker-Pins-x37619568.htm" target="_blank">sharp pins with glass heads</a> really help. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">It may also help to see how the corners look when matched correctly. They should cross right at the stitching line--not at the corners.<u></u></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrHnDFXjNPGN42fxljcQVOSmxFPx0MMuXQVvAB9FDtrwWPI-TWTE232EhYNvkneWqHJITD5f7_T8EJ_6mQL3gKwUHlhB3zfkF02od2Jt4a8ur72xw2guvAZciygCeA-EYU82M4u16N1oQ/s2048/sleeve+corner+match.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrHnDFXjNPGN42fxljcQVOSmxFPx0MMuXQVvAB9FDtrwWPI-TWTE232EhYNvkneWqHJITD5f7_T8EJ_6mQL3gKwUHlhB3zfkF02od2Jt4a8ur72xw2guvAZciygCeA-EYU82M4u16N1oQ/w480-h640/sleeve+corner+match.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Time to stitch. In this pattern, you begin stitching 2" in from one underarm corner and end 2" from the other underarm corner. Like this:</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5bpBVPbMuyWMoKk5EBZSiPhtkGN-S9u0VlJEGKnhsx5wkGMA5rO4xDVPo9Igohx-_ZSTMvHTGrgll0XN9-wyNkMEjNIcZVmfpo1R7XH3MIYLoNTjISptDNPwO_5F4X2_LRUfTLezIo4/s2048/open+2+inches+at+sleeve+seam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb5bpBVPbMuyWMoKk5EBZSiPhtkGN-S9u0VlJEGKnhsx5wkGMA5rO4xDVPo9Igohx-_ZSTMvHTGrgll0XN9-wyNkMEjNIcZVmfpo1R7XH3MIYLoNTjISptDNPwO_5F4X2_LRUfTLezIo4/w480-h640/open+2+inches+at+sleeve+seam.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Next, stitch your underarm seam of the sleeve. Unfold the pressed hems. Stitch from the raw sleeve hem up to the dots at the underarm corners. Also stitch the side seam of the garment from the matched dots at the underarm corners to the matched dots at the top of the side vents.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Tomorrow, I'll explain how you'll stitch that open spot at the underarm.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">In the meantime, I hope you're following along and finding info you can use in other projects.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-13189233339179492432021-09-20T14:47:00.000-04:002021-09-20T14:47:21.917-04:00<p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Hello fellow sewers,</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">It's time for the next step in constructing the Shirt (view B) from At Every Angle. In the last blog, we ended with beginning to pin the collar to the shirt's neckline, so let's see how that looked.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqXx3iqUYmqW6HT8HcKWm5vWDt1tvXTxPadGRTUNRFeIZFII4pL1lJIbobf-FDCufFzcLuUq3_rF-fs-XfMCXUn45TeX7Ed4PZSl-fpYeUrxjwoX9FhXgnFyLkHKjuxBwziJC5EnUMFW8/s2048/collar+pinning+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqXx3iqUYmqW6HT8HcKWm5vWDt1tvXTxPadGRTUNRFeIZFII4pL1lJIbobf-FDCufFzcLuUq3_rF-fs-XfMCXUn45TeX7Ed4PZSl-fpYeUrxjwoX9FhXgnFyLkHKjuxBwziJC5EnUMFW8/w640-h480/collar+pinning+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">As a quick review, this collar is somewhat unusual. As you can see in the photo, the collar is slipped down over the neckline of the shirt (in other words, the neckline is inside the collar), right side to right side, center backs matched. At the center front edges, the collar would fold around the fronts and back on itself with the neckline sandwiched between the 2 collar layers. Once both layers are pinned, it's time to stitch.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Look closely at the stitching below. I sank my needle with the fabric turned in the opposite direction and stitched to the end of the collar. Then I turned the collar around as you see below. I like this technique because it avoids the dimple in the fabric's edge that backstitching often causes. Now I'm ready to stitch across the combined collar/neckline. I'll mirror image this technique at the other end.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-B1mbCRAdi7aUtE-8bQEDiV3ZI_dyLgZRA8mAyQpezlN9H4-qSmLekRN5EBfjqpMZbtj-njHCbU0Z5N2TlyAMyPYic1shN7MaQvztL0IPEgf1gnGXhY0I8vbRnak6U5wuGeT_nGRkg5Q/s1095/collar+seam+1+sewing+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1095" data-original-width="1026" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-B1mbCRAdi7aUtE-8bQEDiV3ZI_dyLgZRA8mAyQpezlN9H4-qSmLekRN5EBfjqpMZbtj-njHCbU0Z5N2TlyAMyPYic1shN7MaQvztL0IPEgf1gnGXhY0I8vbRnak6U5wuGeT_nGRkg5Q/w600-h640/collar+seam+1+sewing+%25282%2529.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Same view as above. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzz5uvhK-PMbal8OH5WTTdKQnK-vxeHkOOe5WPsP2jHyJ7W1b0MIA1jresPTmDTTl0Z3WP4LnvgEacLWOoClA5VIEOyi9BfLx0RGE4sabiCG_XofMAs4Z5-_4NgcfZSC6HmYQwQoluZzg/s2048/collar+seam+1+sewing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzz5uvhK-PMbal8OH5WTTdKQnK-vxeHkOOe5WPsP2jHyJ7W1b0MIA1jresPTmDTTl0Z3WP4LnvgEacLWOoClA5VIEOyi9BfLx0RGE4sabiCG_XofMAs4Z5-_4NgcfZSC6HmYQwQoluZzg/w640-h480/collar+seam+1+sewing.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Once the collar/neckline seam is stitched, it must be graded and clipped. I've mentioned in other blogs that we now clip on the diagonal. I clipped one layer, then turned the collar/neckline over and clipped in the opposite direction, and so the clips don't overlap. Thus no ridges or gaps press through to the right side.</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhprNhK3FJiPuF03Lev04W0BfldcdtFC0WxS-H3HgVz540ieoqDCWQU6m2lj2KdtytTRxbsNZYWYMH6thUc4klzbbYZUxoO32XLp_LLB9vQr3P_Bb4Elg87WjgoSTW-hc1ZvKZwDYFO9TM/s2048/collar+seams+graded+and+clipped.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhprNhK3FJiPuF03Lev04W0BfldcdtFC0WxS-H3HgVz540ieoqDCWQU6m2lj2KdtytTRxbsNZYWYMH6thUc4klzbbYZUxoO32XLp_LLB9vQr3P_Bb4Elg87WjgoSTW-hc1ZvKZwDYFO9TM/w640-h480/collar+seams+graded+and+clipped.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Below, I'm pressing the collar up and away from the neckline of the garment. You can see that the top edge of the collar is open. See the raw edges?</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCu3E_0tBd8QABh8JVXJyMI99-fR1N7tbjIBTcaJm-dMONby2xPSUzq4yRtdQBXYUtYXfLjH_gt8BmdiN4wMoktvaJRGj4IgnKpSL2ZJPtCE0F7_-qwwQbzPS-RsPjQ7kuk8UNk6tAHWk/s2048/collar+prep+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCu3E_0tBd8QABh8JVXJyMI99-fR1N7tbjIBTcaJm-dMONby2xPSUzq4yRtdQBXYUtYXfLjH_gt8BmdiN4wMoktvaJRGj4IgnKpSL2ZJPtCE0F7_-qwwQbzPS-RsPjQ7kuk8UNk6tAHWk/w640-h480/collar+prep+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">You might be wondering, "How on earth do I close the top of that collar now?" It can be done! Of course, all of this is explained and illustrated in the instructions, but it's helpful to see it done.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">You'll roll the front edges of the shirt and pin them out of the way, like this:</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiHQcFCn8qKOdiROB0cJTDravTSTnnS1ajPIUSUadTs6YDCDCj16WMsp8hdb8qRC7YsD6ns540jkVuyQmKc2rEjzWXuwAVSSqYFSazaen0qOh4VSKPBmsCWyYSwcXSCjDsVhnNYglzmnQ/s2048/collar+prep.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiHQcFCn8qKOdiROB0cJTDravTSTnnS1ajPIUSUadTs6YDCDCj16WMsp8hdb8qRC7YsD6ns540jkVuyQmKc2rEjzWXuwAVSSqYFSazaen0qOh4VSKPBmsCWyYSwcXSCjDsVhnNYglzmnQ/w640-h480/collar+prep.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;">Note that I've pinned the rolled front. It can be rolled again on top of itself. Once you've rolled each front, you can pull the collar down over the garment, wrong side out, and pin the edges together. Begin stitching the collar at each center front end and stitch toward the center of the collar as far as you reasonably can. Grade the seam allowances where you've stitched and press them open over a point press. This photo is showing you one end of the collar. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QYBCq_b0BamGExa7fiezNht98QoH54HHOOtdwXhGOwdSvcfo2J6pnn793hXNiweYZRyCmA1AQ5a0l45tzXn3rcF2b8qXJQ4p-W7JXN6tQQm9TZat0ihCVN5CxUxr6uMdpXJOCUwoWus/s2048/top+collar+seam+pressed+open.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-QYBCq_b0BamGExa7fiezNht98QoH54HHOOtdwXhGOwdSvcfo2J6pnn793hXNiweYZRyCmA1AQ5a0l45tzXn3rcF2b8qXJQ4p-W7JXN6tQQm9TZat0ihCVN5CxUxr6uMdpXJOCUwoWus/w640-h480/top+collar+seam+pressed+open.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Once you've stitched and pressed both ends, you can turn them right side out, using a point turner to walk out the corners. The middle of the collar will still be open. Turn the seam allowances down inside the collar, pressing them carefully so they are even.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjvXuQe1K6MVs5Tcs63GSC7_2kIawmHEl6HnHgt8RolYPYXdPCoakkvSYKEsSuYlTmhPsWjrF9lSVAR62Hgl3JEQ_hMopG3D-TUraBSxTga8Xoq-7Yr6WdVLPiTpbnnolLdW3EXEltESU/s2048/center+of+collar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjvXuQe1K6MVs5Tcs63GSC7_2kIawmHEl6HnHgt8RolYPYXdPCoakkvSYKEsSuYlTmhPsWjrF9lSVAR62Hgl3JEQ_hMopG3D-TUraBSxTga8Xoq-7Yr6WdVLPiTpbnnolLdW3EXEltESU/w640-h480/center+of+collar.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Once the pressed seam allowances are perfect, trim them to 3/8". Slide a strip of Steam-a-Seam between them, remove the paper backing, and press to fuse this last part of the collar together. Finally, you'll edgestitch the collar. Work on the side of the collar that will show when worn and begin stitching at center back where the collar joins the neckline. Edgestitch all the way around. You did it!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKLqMe0Vb9D-4VmHUYgqG9q0F8SnEig87m1HuuXK_lnYqjf1pc16n_rTyrUU6y0P79gw_mNnlbXUT6gvjq5tC9uFTpxoRKmydBR5eLNsfIgGZngVjxrAz0XiYFmrWxTu_XY7Rwc5D1fvU/s2048/topstitched+finished+collar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKLqMe0Vb9D-4VmHUYgqG9q0F8SnEig87m1HuuXK_lnYqjf1pc16n_rTyrUU6y0P79gw_mNnlbXUT6gvjq5tC9uFTpxoRKmydBR5eLNsfIgGZngVjxrAz0XiYFmrWxTu_XY7Rwc5D1fvU/w640-h480/topstitched+finished+collar.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Next, we'll construct the sleeves. We have different way of finishing the underarms, so I'll show you that in the next blog.<br /><br /></span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><br /> <p></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-18409049050150082102021-07-24T11:10:00.000-04:002021-07-24T11:10:09.334-04:00<p> <span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Hi fellow sewers,</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">At last I am getting back to sewing my <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/At-Every-Angle-x37619710.htm" target="_blank">At Every Angle</a> view B shirt. I've been working on projects that had preliminary deadlines, and you'll see the results later. But for now, I can continue my shirt! I've reached the point of working on the collar. One reason I chose to create blogs for this shirt, besides the fact that I love it, is because the collar is constructed in an unusual way. I'll go through all the steps. The early steps might be a review for some of you, but others may find some of the techniques to be new.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">The first step is to interface the collar. Of course I'm using one of our lightweight fusible interfacings, which I've preshrunk according to the instructions available on the website. (Take a look at the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Interfacings.htm" target="_blank">Interfacings page</a>. If you click on an interfacing to read about it, you'll also see, right below the Add to Cart button, that our instructions for using our interfacings are only a "click" away.) </span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I've laid out my piece of parchment paper (the same stuff you bake cookies on) on my ironing board. The fabric collar goes on, wrong side up. The interfacing goes on, glue side down.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcVcoM6RoYY6IOjnPneGbAnAWFXynSdAUNWYJ6vgURljwiLzhYJJQic-5go8p0t7E0m-Aigw5wzW8RQJsr9pU-jfzO3B0mhowyMMJht_YTw8WJ_CHfKCD6J7AAuaQENvk8Bozom9wqS8/s2048/collar+with+interfacing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcVcoM6RoYY6IOjnPneGbAnAWFXynSdAUNWYJ6vgURljwiLzhYJJQic-5go8p0t7E0m-Aigw5wzW8RQJsr9pU-jfzO3B0mhowyMMJht_YTw8WJ_CHfKCD6J7AAuaQENvk8Bozom9wqS8/w400-h300/collar+with+interfacing.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br />The collar pattern goes back on top to check the shape of the collar/interfacing "sandwich". If the shape is distorted and the interfacing is then fused, the collar will never lie properly--so be sure to check. Remove the pattern.</span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXRr1dx47MDMuUgd_73mSKxNC0Z17aUPvxIh0-YVh84kWmddu4hviLHWofN_qJ6d-E_mu3gv4OBEfhijWciDsc3qYMDwd4fGFruJNXFNgs52T0PdSudhd6bPvO3K-iuY66z-fyoBLMmFc/s2048/collar+check+shape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXRr1dx47MDMuUgd_73mSKxNC0Z17aUPvxIh0-YVh84kWmddu4hviLHWofN_qJ6d-E_mu3gv4OBEfhijWciDsc3qYMDwd4fGFruJNXFNgs52T0PdSudhd6bPvO3K-iuY66z-fyoBLMmFc/w400-h300/collar+check+shape.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Then my silk organza press cloth goes on top to form what I call my interfacing "sandwich". The parchment paper protects my ironing board, and the press cloth protects my iron. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYh2JZyrnSH67r9UEQ_izgbtaNmu9Q_QcmQtIE_CEmQDpReZ3xZjK9oQCC4PIhKxAynC6xGtx_66S7hikFBJEB1LBUCSUOokkH738cgIH6AkpLwcTVdEFlHZkQK-5QRjcMZ68vMPO036g/s2048/collar+interface+with+press+cloth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYh2JZyrnSH67r9UEQ_izgbtaNmu9Q_QcmQtIE_CEmQDpReZ3xZjK9oQCC4PIhKxAynC6xGtx_66S7hikFBJEB1LBUCSUOokkH738cgIH6AkpLwcTVdEFlHZkQK-5QRjcMZ68vMPO036g/w400-h300/collar+interface+with+press+cloth.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Beginning in the center of the collar, I lower the iron straight down onto the layers. One shot of steam, count to 6 or 8, then pick the iron straight up, move to the next area, and repeat till the entire collar is fused.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Next, pin the short ends of the collar together, stitch at 5/8", trim to 1/4", and press the seam allowances open. (Use really <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/The-Best-Glasshead-Dressmaker-Pins-x37619568.htm" target="_blank">sharp pins</a> with glass heads that won't melt when you're pressing near them.) Now the unusual part of this collar begins. First, let's look at how the collar edge compares to the garment neckline edge. Unfortunately, I laid the collar down with the edge that attaches to the garment toward the top of the photo, but the point remains that you're trying to attach a straight edge to a circle.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCImKPcCR1WbVL9aM6-gLUmle0qVwKl3trkqxuDuOE68F27gAiaBAggt8CR8vhLy8nOgIKNyp75apLOuoIJ-cOelRTAY2Z0s9JQKjGJi3PyRhOZ1EsDfaQ47MYcyrJSBPtEqri6dPxBNg/s2048/collar+versus+neckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCImKPcCR1WbVL9aM6-gLUmle0qVwKl3trkqxuDuOE68F27gAiaBAggt8CR8vhLy8nOgIKNyp75apLOuoIJ-cOelRTAY2Z0s9JQKjGJi3PyRhOZ1EsDfaQ47MYcyrJSBPtEqri6dPxBNg/w640-h480/collar+versus+neckline.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br />So how can you make that easier? Once again, the trick is in the pinning. At this point, I'll explain that there's no neckline facing on this shirt. The collar encases the neckline edge of the garment. So pinning is crucial. First, make sure you are pinning the edge of the collar with the shoulder match dots. It's the shorter edge. Also, you'll pin one layer at a time. Begin by matching the short seam of the collar to the center back clip of the garment, <u>right side of collar to wrong side of garment.</u> Place a pin, head sticking out from fabric edges and catching only a few threads at 5/8". The garment edge will be up inside the collar. Match a clip at the front fold of the collar to a front edge of the garment and pin. Same for the other end of the collar. Let's look:</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVsFvCQGVcs-uuSJM_P4TnFANno0PgknuD7gliMkkIsANtrhHPsUSabE0KtXDi4q1e-JeAFQLtV-0z1R2c4arJHnMPkVnd15djv9k46UJ46txQAOhEBuOWpvp53PwvjDbr3Oe6xDpx4RU/s2048/collar+first+pins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVsFvCQGVcs-uuSJM_P4TnFANno0PgknuD7gliMkkIsANtrhHPsUSabE0KtXDi4q1e-JeAFQLtV-0z1R2c4arJHnMPkVnd15djv9k46UJ46txQAOhEBuOWpvp53PwvjDbr3Oe6xDpx4RU/w640-h480/collar+first+pins.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Match a collar dot to a shoulder seam. My turquoise dot is barely visible in the photo above. Pin. Repeat for the other shoulder. Now you can pin the remaining seam allowances. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKO8WFVwMzkRg0Lgb9zU3eXp9Xg_RXDnG0xeZGFBlXsBYSGvwNQVUOxiqjv6NlXaojnf8Qpyyyi4W_zaiJrtaJelqsJqZRt6YDMsTkQiL-UEXh9wOSGdQrAiQbj-kQZ6kIA5iKA0vstTc/s2048/collar+pinning+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKO8WFVwMzkRg0Lgb9zU3eXp9Xg_RXDnG0xeZGFBlXsBYSGvwNQVUOxiqjv6NlXaojnf8Qpyyyi4W_zaiJrtaJelqsJqZRt6YDMsTkQiL-UEXh9wOSGdQrAiQbj-kQZ6kIA5iKA0vstTc/w640-h480/collar+pinning+2.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">It's looking weird, but it's halfway there. Wrap one end of the collar around the garment front so it's snug. Remove your pin at that end of the collar and pin again through all the layers. Repeat at the other end, then repin the entire collar by placing each section of the second layer, removing your pin, then replacing it through all the layers. Match all the same clips and dots. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I'll say again, because it's so important, that the secret to success is to pin by catching only a few threads right at the stitching line. The fabric edges--one curved and one straight--don't want to cooperate with each other. Look at the edges in the photo above. The only part of this seam that you want to control is at the 5/8" line. Let the edges do what they want. You take control where you need to stitch.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Once everything is accurately pinned together, you can stitch across the seam at 5/8". I love this pinning technique; no matter which side is up when you stitch, it's easy to remove each pin when you come to it because the heads are out where you can see them. Just to be clear, I'll say again that the garment is up inside the collar. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">This is already a long post, so I'll cover the second part of the collar construction in my next post. I hope you're finding it helpful and that you are making an At Every Angle shirt along with me.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><br /><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /></div><div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-89149496848366062662021-06-07T11:32:00.001-04:002021-06-07T11:32:11.412-04:00<p> <span style="font-size: large;">Hello again, everyone,</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">In today's blog I will focus on the Pocket and on joining the Backs. First, let's look at the Pocket. </span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">As you may remember, I laid the Pocket pattern on top of the stacked Right Front pattern piece on the Right Front fabric piece and drew the motifs on the Pocket pattern. Then I matched the drawn circles to the appropriate circles on the fabric and cut the Pocket. Here's a photo illustrating the result:</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDUhhIuNYDbjxy6xfa9QdFzdknLUCu19L0gWxB-0TPHtGJhSRa4Bawl_1VRv5JMysLZBQY9pQnqseUOXUEZ6pidsYoO5jjGOfR5pPAaAYKe_JORsWa9UHp5GoQQFK0l2C9oYAmtqQrpU/s2048/AEA+pocket+with+Right+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBDUhhIuNYDbjxy6xfa9QdFzdknLUCu19L0gWxB-0TPHtGJhSRa4Bawl_1VRv5JMysLZBQY9pQnqseUOXUEZ6pidsYoO5jjGOfR5pPAaAYKe_JORsWa9UHp5GoQQFK0l2C9oYAmtqQrpU/w640-h480/AEA+pocket+with+Right+Front.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">So now it's time to prepare the Pocket. In accordance with the instructions, interface the top facing, serge the top edge, press it down into place, and topstitch across it next to the serging. Staysitch down both sides of the Pocket and across the bottom at 3/8". </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Using a Pressing Template, press the bottom of the Pocket first. This helps avoid any little "pokies" inadvertently peeking out from the bottom of the finished Pocket. Then press the sides at 3/8". Lay strips of Steam-a-Seam on the 3 edges of the Pocket, press gently, and remove the paper backing. Here's a photo of the Pocket when it's fully prepared.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE4SoDVLndPfAeGjkgixvewPMRVWC6cKWPeUxMTGU-WK0sOGPUsiiOTwZwi5ZHnGzRVjfMQQw2_Kl9QQ83Wg4fyBfl-WO6xYgC1vhF7tpJmUZ7w1uT7Tqz-lDhMYch1N3uafpCuXh3kOw/s2048/AEA+pocket+prepared.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE4SoDVLndPfAeGjkgixvewPMRVWC6cKWPeUxMTGU-WK0sOGPUsiiOTwZwi5ZHnGzRVjfMQQw2_Kl9QQ83Wg4fyBfl-WO6xYgC1vhF7tpJmUZ7w1uT7Tqz-lDhMYch1N3uafpCuXh3kOw/w480-h640/AEA+pocket+prepared.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">All the info I just mentioned is in the instructions. I'd like to say a couple more things about our technique. You'll see 1 dot on the Pocket pattern. It should be placed on the matching dot on the Right Front. (Most patterns show 2 dots, but if either dot is marked incorrectly, the Pocket can be crooked. Also, it's easy to get just a bit off-grain when marking those 2 dots.) </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Once you've matched that dot, you can measure from the side of the Pocket to center front from the top to the bottom of the Pocket to be sure it is placed correctly on the Front. The Steam-a-Seam makes it easy: it's slightly "sticky" so it will stay where you put it, but its position can be corrected. That's really useful if you're using a solid fabric or a different sort of print. Of course, my Pocket is being matched to the motifs underneath. So I placed it carefully to ensure the matching and pressed it in place. Now it can be stitched perfectly.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84FyZg4rTMGKmFm0VcQjdVsI6Skqzz3h-9QvfHyhd6liAkP3hdioB6VV-_FbYG-suFgJ4HQ0XR6ayD86_a2utlPrZFRcK_B0Wnx4GQ3ZAAxDNunsU7wPWX7P2yVFIMXWNroeLozMouaI/s2048/AEA+pocket+Steam-a-Seam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg84FyZg4rTMGKmFm0VcQjdVsI6Skqzz3h-9QvfHyhd6liAkP3hdioB6VV-_FbYG-suFgJ4HQ0XR6ayD86_a2utlPrZFRcK_B0Wnx4GQ3ZAAxDNunsU7wPWX7P2yVFIMXWNroeLozMouaI/w480-h640/AEA+pocket+Steam-a-Seam.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Of course the instructions show a "map" of the Pocket stitching. Again, I used the blind hem foot to stitch right on the Pocket edge. I began where the previous line of topstitching intersects the side of the Pocket. The top of the Pocket is toward me and I'm stitching to a point 3/8" in from the top corner (marked by a pin).</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL5OVL3-jpynD6kb50Hkm6QP0UD1KJ1qULc15LnQuUg7-H268KoeO1QAbnTZeTGu952d9-kT_yCrc902KX_eqBCmlW4QA0GU4anK1O8_9Z2EhuOEJLDyA1InV_iIXQhe4tau19elhRRYE/s2048/AEA+pocket+stitching+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL5OVL3-jpynD6kb50Hkm6QP0UD1KJ1qULc15LnQuUg7-H268KoeO1QAbnTZeTGu952d9-kT_yCrc902KX_eqBCmlW4QA0GU4anK1O8_9Z2EhuOEJLDyA1InV_iIXQhe4tau19elhRRYE/w640-h480/AEA+pocket+stitching+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">At the top edge, I pivoted to stitch across the top corner (anchoring the 3/8" seam allowance underneath--use a pin to tuck away any bits that may be sticking out before stitching). Count your stitches to the corner. Pivot again to stitch down the side and on around the Pocket to the other corner.</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5WB5-dV4Qc7q_9K-tsikpeB8Vz45pByeC-MyyF3VSZmYHt_JNs8JbKJAZc2hF1ZkrGXbCiTrs5wThSPUfDyOzrH9MlBfvBH6NHH__MjV_GPL6gpqNxLdctNva7JQCQc-TO21S_Rz4NCw/s2048/AEA+pocket+stitching+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5WB5-dV4Qc7q_9K-tsikpeB8Vz45pByeC-MyyF3VSZmYHt_JNs8JbKJAZc2hF1ZkrGXbCiTrs5wThSPUfDyOzrH9MlBfvBH6NHH__MjV_GPL6gpqNxLdctNva7JQCQc-TO21S_Rz4NCw/w640-h480/AEA+pocket+stitching+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">At the final corner, pivot to stitch across, again making sure the 3/8" folded edges are tucked away, and stitch the same number of stitches you used on the first corner. Finally, stitch diagonally to mirror image what you did on the first corner.</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUBjXweZx0xVX4eKHKkrZB7lpqtO4qieiRQtnirXrYs6njweHM5InVlFje7mvUYljWSJWqpKjjLFrwgH0R7I2J2qvE8InWHfuQbjp_SyvgnLNHgc98DZlPRS49AfPAoue3qt52j6209VE/s2048/AE+pocket+stitching+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUBjXweZx0xVX4eKHKkrZB7lpqtO4qieiRQtnirXrYs6njweHM5InVlFje7mvUYljWSJWqpKjjLFrwgH0R7I2J2qvE8InWHfuQbjp_SyvgnLNHgc98DZlPRS49AfPAoue3qt52j6209VE/w640-h480/AE+pocket+stitching+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Ta-da! A perfect pocket.</span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Now we move to the Backs. Prepare them in the same way as the Fronts. Serge the side seam edges, staystitch the hem and vent at 1/4", press the 1/4" to the wrong side. Stitch the miters and press the vent and hem at 1". (If you missed this info, see my previous blog from June 4.) Finally, cut a 4" piece of Steam-a-Seam and slide it under the Left Back hem, starting at center back. Press, remove the paper backing, and fuse.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Now a really cool thing can happen. Normally, the Backs would be pinned and stitched as usual. But this time, I have cut my fabric to match the motifs down center back where the seam is. So I used a different technique.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">First, I pressed the 5/8" center back seam allowance on the Right Back to the wrong side.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-TFB8Dnp98-hNWcmuAXbqFxfbQAC9odNu8K3NmRu0r2Z838sB8delxbclZ7CicguhtLi3ZVoUg1LNXzdS9V_AnKR2p15FcBA7BuhlAEwGXq7f-OcrWo32_QTaD5iAQSg68CDtIjWarIk/s2048/AEA+Right+Back+SA+pressed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-TFB8Dnp98-hNWcmuAXbqFxfbQAC9odNu8K3NmRu0r2Z838sB8delxbclZ7CicguhtLi3ZVoUg1LNXzdS9V_AnKR2p15FcBA7BuhlAEwGXq7f-OcrWo32_QTaD5iAQSg68CDtIjWarIk/w640-h480/AEA+Right+Back+SA+pressed.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /> Then I placed Steam-a-Seam on the seam allowance next to the fold down to the dot marking Left Back hem. </span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Uet2vK_1u2a3YTxo4yS189PyoSCV9w9iIav_-tSIFJLfp8AolYsXbGO6Ly2ZNUpSIaSYIBNkvTqf1yWHigee3HKbLU8-cfWjqQHJgjdFdrZfvNiux75YQWuOzgd1ERVR0vrAeaYWf6E/s2048/AEA+right+back+with+SAS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Uet2vK_1u2a3YTxo4yS189PyoSCV9w9iIav_-tSIFJLfp8AolYsXbGO6Ly2ZNUpSIaSYIBNkvTqf1yWHigee3HKbLU8-cfWjqQHJgjdFdrZfvNiux75YQWuOzgd1ERVR0vrAeaYWf6E/w480-h640/AEA+right+back+with+SAS.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Once I've pressed lightly and removed the paper backing, I can lay the Right Back on top of the Left Back and match the motifs just as I did on the Pocket.</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYetnwRy_NgoIdNPv2jKwYJmdJ5nTA1gbIimMbedAiZ0yqFhChPgZwKSC-cZnq-w_4rpCMnCAMq9xgHnX66lUiQLG9J3L-4G5nh6N-0_bCLbU_7Yd7AFg8UTS6t2NomjDRhf0XfyiIli4/s2048/AEA+backs+matching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYetnwRy_NgoIdNPv2jKwYJmdJ5nTA1gbIimMbedAiZ0yqFhChPgZwKSC-cZnq-w_4rpCMnCAMq9xgHnX66lUiQLG9J3L-4G5nh6N-0_bCLbU_7Yd7AFg8UTS6t2NomjDRhf0XfyiIli4/w480-h640/AEA+backs+matching.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">Once all the motifs were perfectly matched, I pressed to fuse the Backs. Then I could turn back to the wrong side, Right Back on top of Left Back, prepared for stitching. The pin marks the dot at the Left Front hem, where I secured my stitching.</span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSCQfYeM6nHFJGcTVr1YpgVfhiMJ8EICNhXNECBZhXlr0tAulL_Vh61N0SCwPQuXsopj4vtd3zbWCjiyGihpHB0E10dUUcck0U7c__ar0BqrTOEQfPDxMw-T6A7XAyLA13p8UHuuCINQ/s2048/AEA+r+back+opened+for+stitching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqSCQfYeM6nHFJGcTVr1YpgVfhiMJ8EICNhXNECBZhXlr0tAulL_Vh61N0SCwPQuXsopj4vtd3zbWCjiyGihpHB0E10dUUcck0U7c__ar0BqrTOEQfPDxMw-T6A7XAyLA13p8UHuuCINQ/w480-h640/AEA+r+back+opened+for+stitching.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Finally, I serged the seam allowances together, trimming only any loose threads. At the bottom, I left a long serger chain. I put it through a needle with a large eye and threaded it back through the serging to keep it secure.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnrFltLFc7Z77M6bB6NQSM8wtmc_DMOlV2hxdz41KWoYdV8r0N_OKRBFgEGrrfWfkEJNO_bxj_Axy0FHq_AwgEUaFz2WnnNNqNaHJTL0lYdWn3RRIkB27ckdsniyXnYiEHbN5XZchrfg/s2048/AEA+backs+serged.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMnrFltLFc7Z77M6bB6NQSM8wtmc_DMOlV2hxdz41KWoYdV8r0N_OKRBFgEGrrfWfkEJNO_bxj_Axy0FHq_AwgEUaFz2WnnNNqNaHJTL0lYdWn3RRIkB27ckdsniyXnYiEHbN5XZchrfg/w480-h640/AEA+backs+serged.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">When I was finished, I had perfectly matched Backs with a secure finish, <u>and it was easy to accomplish</u>.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievVx0WRzXTy2AJ57uOOMyrFR85zOq8VTwcvy9gfzoKZgSweRmwEhde1rHU-QJJLMd8ya0hwyFb4QpYsf_CHpNoeybT7LwBwOP9Zyd1ZL3AHN0UGSq7ySs3H2dXDXrMCNF1LGN8En7Wfo/s2048/AEA+backs+stitched.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEievVx0WRzXTy2AJ57uOOMyrFR85zOq8VTwcvy9gfzoKZgSweRmwEhde1rHU-QJJLMd8ya0hwyFb4QpYsf_CHpNoeybT7LwBwOP9Zyd1ZL3AHN0UGSq7ySs3H2dXDXrMCNF1LGN8En7Wfo/w480-h640/AEA+backs+stitched.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I have decided not to edgestitch and topstitch according to the instructions. I don't want rows of white stitching showing on my colored circles. I'll show you a different option when I am ready to finish the hems.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">If you're following along, I hope you're enjoying these blogs and finding them helpful. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p><p><br /></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-27278335323953189662021-06-04T19:41:00.000-04:002021-06-04T19:41:10.256-04:00<p> <span style="font-size: large;">Good morning all,</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Now that I've matched the motifs on my fabric and cut out my shirt accordingly, I'm ready to begin sewing. As you know, I'm making View B of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/At-Every-Angle-x37619710.htm" target="_blank">At Every Angle</a>, but you may find some helpful info in this post even if you are making some other shirt. As a reminder, here's the pattern:</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/At-Every-Angle-x37619710.htm" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcn_FC2zV3mBH6WAhpzePz4FEJg4FDMzzxZkCYYAzZNsnl9SJWNIqOCP_5q58-5WvpD2nSv5TxkHDAZWJPlvtJ42IW71a8dY2S2HaPFydzOT4ICaz8avbdoy9XVw9w_-jVF6gW5Ks93qo/s0/pt_005173_1_200x300.png" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">So today, I'll go over the preparation of the Left and Right Fronts. Remember, this shirt buttons left over right. Follow along with the instructions and look at my photos, which may help you understand how we do things.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">The first steps in the instructions are folding the Fronts to make the plackets. Fold the neckline and the hem at the first clips and stabpin in place. Then use a seam gauge to measure the rest of the first fold at 1-1/2", stabpinning the rest of the fold. Press. <br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4KI5EIKWjgoU8BQ9WPQ3QCeiZEIW12GnNEPPlV85uY2hsyuMeiLp0PkP1hOHAWn9hZRoD3Sr1w-duGw2xLdXljSr6FgdScM63czx8lmy2ZzPU-B9HB-4z7zmhWBCp-WM-Rc0skB8Q4fs/s2048/AEA+first+fold+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="2048" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4KI5EIKWjgoU8BQ9WPQ3QCeiZEIW12GnNEPPlV85uY2hsyuMeiLp0PkP1hOHAWn9hZRoD3Sr1w-duGw2xLdXljSr6FgdScM63czx8lmy2ZzPU-B9HB-4z7zmhWBCp-WM-Rc0skB8Q4fs/w640-h376/AEA+first+fold+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Fold again at the second set of clips at 1-3/4", again measuring with a seam gauge and stabpinning to verify that the entire placket is pressed accurately.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeZ4OKuXCTq9-pInI3DjWKPj1wI2hQ_bVGQkFZAwvKh2TAyDl0WKJ9LO6fBSqTkH6Kw_LnqrJ7JxRuVrOnMTr0M1-f0gVtwjNxKY6XxVr8MAZIPt70AIRFTFIxV6eH1AuAuJZP1Dyvxo/s2048/AEA+second+fold+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1623" data-original-width="2048" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkeZ4OKuXCTq9-pInI3DjWKPj1wI2hQ_bVGQkFZAwvKh2TAyDl0WKJ9LO6fBSqTkH6Kw_LnqrJ7JxRuVrOnMTr0M1-f0gVtwjNxKY6XxVr8MAZIPt70AIRFTFIxV6eH1AuAuJZP1Dyvxo/w640-h508/AEA+second+fold+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Open out the folds and place a strip of interfacing between the folds. Lay a silk organza press cloth over the interfacing and press. Don't slide your iron--you'll have a glued-up mess! (By the way, we have a good selection of light fusible <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Interfacings.htm" target="_blank">interfacings</a> at the website.)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYZf-QkWSEG6V8MaO1m6deJf8D3GTm3RiLab4DyRxIekC8MQpseWTWaam3k41_VqiiBAkn-DlmPXLDBKLeAQRTCt5_jL2qmgsELkG51AwXEhx6R45-H1qkfNa9OQA6UmEXyZK3Vqa8Eng/s2048/AEA+front+interfacing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYZf-QkWSEG6V8MaO1m6deJf8D3GTm3RiLab4DyRxIekC8MQpseWTWaam3k41_VqiiBAkn-DlmPXLDBKLeAQRTCt5_jL2qmgsELkG51AwXEhx6R45-H1qkfNa9OQA6UmEXyZK3Vqa8Eng/w480-h640/AEA+front+interfacing.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Surprisingly, you'll still be able to see your original pressed folds, so once the interfacing is all pressed, refold those 2 first folds and press them again. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Now that all is accurate, slide strips of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> under the loose edge of the folds. Press, perhaps using a little steam. You want to just adhere the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a>. Let it cool and gently remove the paper backing from the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a>. Lay the fabric back in place and press to fuse the placket in its final position.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqIpdn96W7_zG39sxrzc1C1PIpLMJOfsBDpvUioXugD0Mn_hfsNtaPd8mFv5Ykxc-hlVcFkni0HS572-Nt4M0-qVYp0qp5Ou6CS4nAYjcAazifI_K0uYQaft_SebS34QsaTk-CX6EA_c/s2048/AEA+SAS+in+front+folds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixqIpdn96W7_zG39sxrzc1C1PIpLMJOfsBDpvUioXugD0Mn_hfsNtaPd8mFv5Ykxc-hlVcFkni0HS572-Nt4M0-qVYp0qp5Ou6CS4nAYjcAazifI_K0uYQaft_SebS34QsaTk-CX6EA_c/w640-h480/AEA+SAS+in+front+folds.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> is one of my favorite tools. It helps to accurately place things so that stitching can be done without the fabric slipping or wrinkling. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Next, I used my blind hem foot to get set for edgestitching the placket where you placed the Steam-a-Seam. The left toe of the blind hem foot rides higher than the right toe, so the fabric folds go under the left toe. Move your needle to the left so it just catches the edge of the placket. Here's what my set-up looked like.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf87S3EFw_7TDWpk3xVyfiUcZ_b-1l7wBN2y7jGKmQs9EFmt2tlSnlpCeRZsaYesefevEbHO5KJDlO24QxOZlrIRp3I4MRKzO8xOHHtkvxOAUUzSwRqjBcX0LkF0aSbxStDGYxQjEcCfk/s2048/AEA+edgstitching+front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf87S3EFw_7TDWpk3xVyfiUcZ_b-1l7wBN2y7jGKmQs9EFmt2tlSnlpCeRZsaYesefevEbHO5KJDlO24QxOZlrIRp3I4MRKzO8xOHHtkvxOAUUzSwRqjBcX0LkF0aSbxStDGYxQjEcCfk/w640-h480/AEA+edgstitching+front.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Some of you will have a plastic, adjustable blind hem foot. That works just fine. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">So now the front plackets are done. I did both Fronts at the same time, following the instructions. In the next blog, I'll show you the Pocket.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">But now, let's finish preparing the Fronts. I serged the side seam edges in accordance with the instructions. Then I staystitched the hem and side vent edges at 1/4". Luckily, I have a Piecing Foot that made it easy, but if you don't have one, you can put a piece of blue painter's tape on your machine to guide the edge of the fabric for accuracy. Some of you will have stitch plates with a 1/4" mark--I have metrics on mine, so the foot really helped. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Once you've stitched the appropriate edges at 1/4", press them to the wrong side. The side vents are straight, so you can use a <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Pressing-Template-x37619687.htm" target="_blank">Pressing Template</a> to guide you. We have sets of these Templates in stock. They make this kind of pressing really easy. Here, I'm starting the fold.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI0pNXFUBXWjDHaAvk23Prr_OOEuBYz9YQoxHlNk8Mz5p7BHJ_sOOcGW0AvnSymM0fLvIG9KHHN5Wb0TpUKP-uM0whOqAl48RsQxchfncDaTtRubKkOO89YRZXuykueJboind5iYi1OOw/s2048/AEA+vent+fold+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1535" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI0pNXFUBXWjDHaAvk23Prr_OOEuBYz9YQoxHlNk8Mz5p7BHJ_sOOcGW0AvnSymM0fLvIG9KHHN5Wb0TpUKP-uM0whOqAl48RsQxchfncDaTtRubKkOO89YRZXuykueJboind5iYi1OOw/w640-h480/AEA+vent+fold+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>I used the nose of the iron to push the fabric over the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Pressing-Template-x37619687.htm" target="_blank">Template</a>, and just ran the iron right along, completing the fold.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUIveSF9LMKyl9uBKQMq2A-wApVnl1aIEjiOEqe4MzXgP3l-X8Sg7jt-i9vGb_yVV6r11g8T-Deuq8RFhE4o2XDor39TVOaVISdfhPztVGvPs4MRJsJJkdBWrOOTgFh0x8mypIQRwPj5I/s2048/AEA+vent+fold+pressed+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1087" data-original-width="2048" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUIveSF9LMKyl9uBKQMq2A-wApVnl1aIEjiOEqe4MzXgP3l-X8Sg7jt-i9vGb_yVV6r11g8T-Deuq8RFhE4o2XDor39TVOaVISdfhPztVGvPs4MRJsJJkdBWrOOTgFh0x8mypIQRwPj5I/w640-h340/AEA+vent+fold+pressed+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> The hem edge is a bit curved, so I stabpinned that edge and pressed. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Once the 1/4" folds are pressed, it's time to stitch the miters. Fold them right side to right side so the folded edges match and the dot is at the corner. Stitch at 1/4". I reduce my stitch length to 2.0 because I don't want a miter to come apart later. I also can stitch in the air for 1/2 or 3/4" off the corner. Not all machines will do that, so you can backstitch, use a fix stitch, or leave long thread tails and tie off.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyK8JaDaTmSCiickE9Ngh3iP0NBEufvqmjegwk8iXtx3eFWycWM-GAqN8nUcZCrX34HaffI5UyU5Z-k8wUTdOwwxnoOqBN9yMyA-DGHjv-og48zt3O9E40jtAfREX3Ah2AgZAx7NyAl-A/s2048/AEA+miter+stitched+and+trimmed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyK8JaDaTmSCiickE9Ngh3iP0NBEufvqmjegwk8iXtx3eFWycWM-GAqN8nUcZCrX34HaffI5UyU5Z-k8wUTdOwwxnoOqBN9yMyA-DGHjv-og48zt3O9E40jtAfREX3Ah2AgZAx7NyAl-A/w480-h640/AEA+miter+stitched+and+trimmed.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Trim the corner of the miter as in the photo above and press it open over a point press.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiIrpQxuhh7-jAl4KC-KEZnhPm9fAExRlZz6mdBozLsILGPwLMGLi2N_IY3jNSiewahzQxBLcNZOb2nom3BjRgODe_FeXO8vpGNIJssv0QObITtQSF1z-NNUX80Qkaaf6wIDFDDQsbeGQ/s2048/AEA+miter+pressed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiIrpQxuhh7-jAl4KC-KEZnhPm9fAExRlZz6mdBozLsILGPwLMGLi2N_IY3jNSiewahzQxBLcNZOb2nom3BjRgODe_FeXO8vpGNIJssv0QObITtQSF1z-NNUX80Qkaaf6wIDFDDQsbeGQ/w640-h480/AEA+miter+pressed.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I like our white plastic <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Point-Turner-x37619564.htm" target="_blank">point turners</a> to make perfect corners. I begin by putting my thumb (not the point turner) inside the miter. The <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Point-Turner-x37619564.htm" target="_blank">point turner</a> goes on top, right along the seam of the miter.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1hk_x-MBy9SIWl9LWR-fzLh58tCMPRMVH8L0GZxv9i7spCNFhD-rHKP75vyzRQvMk9HufhUXX1TGtLh06ihdgCvX2m5LMNGxKfJdSoCJxeDIwadwzJDFAFJeChjtepNWP0rsPjTqQQE/s2048/AEA+point+turner+placed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH1hk_x-MBy9SIWl9LWR-fzLh58tCMPRMVH8L0GZxv9i7spCNFhD-rHKP75vyzRQvMk9HufhUXX1TGtLh06ihdgCvX2m5LMNGxKfJdSoCJxeDIwadwzJDFAFJeChjtepNWP0rsPjTqQQE/w640-h480/AEA+point+turner+placed.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Holding my thumb and the point turner tightly together with the miter in between, I use my other hand to begin turning the fabric right side out.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWYgUu_wj1tPcAmSvebMXrarNj-WV0Ep13E146o7I1_FX3jK4u7MCLj1Pm8QzLrk4Y4-NAKSlWBFDx8tQyX3k2_el1nlh2tFhZT4XgrNMwO4suqL-TXMyhU4y3s2YZDaoITVLTyX81dQ/s2048/AEA+miter+partly+turned.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjWYgUu_wj1tPcAmSvebMXrarNj-WV0Ep13E146o7I1_FX3jK4u7MCLj1Pm8QzLrk4Y4-NAKSlWBFDx8tQyX3k2_el1nlh2tFhZT4XgrNMwO4suqL-TXMyhU4y3s2YZDaoITVLTyX81dQ/w640-h480/AEA+miter+partly+turned.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">My thumb is starting to emerge, and the point turner is now on the inside of the miter. I'm still holding the point turner and my thumb securely together. I'll continue to turn the fabric from wrong side out to right side out, and until my thumb is on top.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xWT_6QwJfWKVrNNKVggDx8_UeyAj8BxNtcK2Ig5llUe2YByAeRrmjhkLQQZNVQfELPlEg9RoaJ6MB3Z7gO6lvgjAMrLCwJh4uen582cJUfsGKVBeslu8l35jpr0tRbrwPs9gEbIFDKg/s2048/AEA+miter+turned.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xWT_6QwJfWKVrNNKVggDx8_UeyAj8BxNtcK2Ig5llUe2YByAeRrmjhkLQQZNVQfELPlEg9RoaJ6MB3Z7gO6lvgjAMrLCwJh4uen582cJUfsGKVBeslu8l35jpr0tRbrwPs9gEbIFDKg/w640-h480/AEA+miter+turned.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">This method works great. Sticking the point turner into the miter can wad the seam allowances into the corner, causing a lump in the point. Worse, it can poke a hole in the corner of the miter!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Next, the side vent hem can be pressed to the inside of the garment at 1", using a <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Pressing-Template-x37619687.htm" target="_blank">Pressing Template. </a> You'll see the miter at the top left corner of this next photo.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvsvpJ9F-PFgdDeGRBfZyQBfG7_Y9LkEJstBv5XuiSZcLoFe6tj9ZMmin8B7yhmyNAXQhAsVuyzXbHS-Y9WLuDXa8Y4vgEjIpYwSVYGoYr-HknrWsbEzK04oJWF4PHYDrK2dRh-kxYqo/s2048/AEA+side+vent+pressed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvsvpJ9F-PFgdDeGRBfZyQBfG7_Y9LkEJstBv5XuiSZcLoFe6tj9ZMmin8B7yhmyNAXQhAsVuyzXbHS-Y9WLuDXa8Y4vgEjIpYwSVYGoYr-HknrWsbEzK04oJWF4PHYDrK2dRh-kxYqo/w640-h480/AEA+side+vent+pressed.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Finally, I stabpinned the slightly curved hems on the Fronts to the inside of the garment at 1" (again measured with a seam gauge) and pressed them. It's not time for Steam-a-Seam yet--the hems get finished later.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Here's a look at my matched Fronts with the hems pressed. Pretty cool!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQSUeJJf10zjGn3op_rw1PSQa1_U-RUc079USFQWQPq_MLW7afrjwQkl9i6GoBVuICrzsAnKE1AYgewZoeYulQTNu10J6I70q0VzVmiJFo8a-oGLs5JRk_jg37PJxULjLjn3ry3nSId3M/s2048/AEA+fonts+prepared+and+matched.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQSUeJJf10zjGn3op_rw1PSQa1_U-RUc079USFQWQPq_MLW7afrjwQkl9i6GoBVuICrzsAnKE1AYgewZoeYulQTNu10J6I70q0VzVmiJFo8a-oGLs5JRk_jg37PJxULjLjn3ry3nSId3M/w480-h640/AEA+fonts+prepared+and+matched.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Next time, we'll do the Pocket, the Backs, and the shoulder seams. Soon, we'll have a great-looking shirt.</span></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><p></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-40767349992608030172021-05-31T09:23:00.002-04:002021-05-31T09:23:53.601-04:00<p> <span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Hi fellow creative sewing ladies,</span></p><p><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I thought we should do a sew-along. I'm going to make a new shirt (View B) from our <b>At Every Angle</b> pattern, and I thought you might like to join me. Here's the pattern--</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcn_FC2zV3mBH6WAhpzePz4FEJg4FDMzzxZkCYYAzZNsnl9SJWNIqOCP_5q58-5WvpD2nSv5TxkHDAZWJPlvtJ42IW71a8dY2S2HaPFydzOT4ICaz8avbdoy9XVw9w_-jVF6gW5Ks93qo/s300/pt_005173_1_200x300.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcn_FC2zV3mBH6WAhpzePz4FEJg4FDMzzxZkCYYAzZNsnl9SJWNIqOCP_5q58-5WvpD2nSv5TxkHDAZWJPlvtJ42IW71a8dY2S2HaPFydzOT4ICaz8avbdoy9XVw9w_-jVF6gW5Ks93qo/w427-h640/pt_005173_1_200x300.png" width="427" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">This is such an interesting shirt. The hems are asymmetrical, it buttons left over right, and the collar is asymmetrical. Also, it has roll-up cuffs and a pocket. (See the last paragraph of this blog about sizing.)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Here's the fabric I've chosen (FF-01480). It's a lively print with lots of color and should be fun to wear. I've decided to match the print down the center front and center back, just to add that high-end, professional touch. If you haven't tried that, read on. I'll show you what I did. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioXW54K7Oikg_LX40rhiaHwrTQljplOhwPjYWoGFChwH4G-7VKGXmDaLg7_WRrvxaGQWEoKXfMuyWiJqxYbgyqEohDWm5IJ8BSzxwlXWxIo5PR0sxaI3xJ5nscMmGOv_DAGaUCAFz9VKs/s2048/1480+flat+1+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioXW54K7Oikg_LX40rhiaHwrTQljplOhwPjYWoGFChwH4G-7VKGXmDaLg7_WRrvxaGQWEoKXfMuyWiJqxYbgyqEohDWm5IJ8BSzxwlXWxIo5PR0sxaI3xJ5nscMmGOv_DAGaUCAFz9VKs/w400-h400/1480+flat+1+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">After placing the main pattern pieces on the fabric in a few different ways, I realized that I would need to cut them on the cross-grain. In other words, the pattern pieces would be placed with their length going across the fabric rather than up and down the fabric.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">It's not always possible to do such a layout, but in this case it's fine. Because the weave is even and the fabric is tightly woven, the crosswise and lengthwise grains will act the same way on the body. Just remember that you can't do this with all fabrics.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">So I began by placing the Left Front where I wanted it. Again, this shirt buttons left over right, so this was the important piece. Also, when matching fabric motifs on a garment that will button, <u>the match must be at center front. </u></span></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Here's how that piece looked when placed on the fabric. I decided to have a row of the circles run down center front. Look carefully. You can just see the buttonholes marked at center front on the pattern. That's where the match must occur. Also, you can see that I drew around the circles where the match must occur. </span><p></p><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2BSYh-WJfq32qzU2MfOizhvWYhIgn1xRfOfPSbcoC8IO5CuKGfpyNPAONeUlmqFmkECJnLERIZqmvpaPUsKZSYSF92jNz3sGelUHUG8vFfJer3NMVPVDSzF378tbWZ3EyRubpyG37jNg/s2048/AEA+left+front+for+matching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2BSYh-WJfq32qzU2MfOizhvWYhIgn1xRfOfPSbcoC8IO5CuKGfpyNPAONeUlmqFmkECJnLERIZqmvpaPUsKZSYSF92jNz3sGelUHUG8vFfJer3NMVPVDSzF378tbWZ3EyRubpyG37jNg/w480-h640/AEA+left+front+for+matching.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Once that piece was pinned in place and couldn't move, I could match the Right Front to it. I placed the Right Front on top of the Left Front, matching center front and the neckline, and I drew the same circles on the Right Front (I could see through the pattern to do this. It's one reason I prefer tissue paper patterns.) Then I located the same circles elsewhere on the fabric and pinned my Right Front in place.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiow9mevx29Zyes-_E0v-xs2T_qfsNbumdSz6adjPEJBkF50vXpCponw5qPA4Y_QKl1I_y-tg3bDGUiN0tUsSia90DoytcIBFC_Za6QC115WWHFTBXTwYZviYXCPwt5EpMg3LDEnMdnaLk/s2048/AEA+right+front+over+left+for+matching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiow9mevx29Zyes-_E0v-xs2T_qfsNbumdSz6adjPEJBkF50vXpCponw5qPA4Y_QKl1I_y-tg3bDGUiN0tUsSia90DoytcIBFC_Za6QC115WWHFTBXTwYZviYXCPwt5EpMg3LDEnMdnaLk/w480-h640/AEA+right+front+over+left+for+matching.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I followed the same procedure with the Back pattern pieces. First, the Left Back. I should say that there is a center back seam, which is why I had to match the Backs. Again, I drew the circles.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15qPy-gUwu4yZzyD4E_nnq7lwntVGfIq3oMrRp4shgwNeSlOssXB0RUQ4ZkjBQMEFerfi3eXEbtzaKI-gvCUEwK3_SLZCCbjUN-TFxcwPon-IV_0ebW2-wUnH3xF2ic8SctzkjBAQxx8/s2048/AEA+left+back+for+matching+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15qPy-gUwu4yZzyD4E_nnq7lwntVGfIq3oMrRp4shgwNeSlOssXB0RUQ4ZkjBQMEFerfi3eXEbtzaKI-gvCUEwK3_SLZCCbjUN-TFxcwPon-IV_0ebW2-wUnH3xF2ic8SctzkjBAQxx8/w480-h640/AEA+left+back+for+matching+%25282%2529.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Repeating the process I used for the Fronts, I laid the Right Back on top of the Left Back, matching the stitching lines 5/8" in from the edges of the pattern pieces as well as the neckline. Of course, I again drew the circles on the Right Back so I'd know where to place it on the fabric. </span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKH8GVlV0w-PI80gAWgpk58tX_Kh2ObTVAwcZnmvB1P39IOJPLolkjKCf-LJiGccY4GmaqM3TUkR3AKIrHFDvhJbiGlxH0azoXq48yV_mgbkBZjzNVUig3DZPT1UvQTbXiEWoCfyjQfEc/s2048/AEA+right+back+over+left+back+for+matching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKH8GVlV0w-PI80gAWgpk58tX_Kh2ObTVAwcZnmvB1P39IOJPLolkjKCf-LJiGccY4GmaqM3TUkR3AKIrHFDvhJbiGlxH0azoXq48yV_mgbkBZjzNVUig3DZPT1UvQTbXiEWoCfyjQfEc/w480-h640/AEA+right+back+over+left+back+for+matching.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Oh, and I repeated the process for the Pocket. I laid it on the Right Front, which was pinned in place. I matched the dot on the pocket to the correct dot on the pattern, then drew on the pocket the circles that showed through. That allowed me to find those same circles elsewhere and pin the Pocket on those circles.</span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglluUiNkXBvf-GPh2akbjwtcgD_lNoyeogkX_d8ucRC5ILuB6TgdDjM10X4Qv7lByE2TPGIx8sDFHFHD0C5LX9mYLZULFfR1wsU7IVCu7CdqJNaohE-NPrKkW2Of44KOzOlJhp60NFfYg/s2048/AEA+pocket+matching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglluUiNkXBvf-GPh2akbjwtcgD_lNoyeogkX_d8ucRC5ILuB6TgdDjM10X4Qv7lByE2TPGIx8sDFHFHD0C5LX9mYLZULFfR1wsU7IVCu7CdqJNaohE-NPrKkW2Of44KOzOlJhp60NFfYg/w480-h640/AEA+pocket+matching.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">Ok. So let's look at the total layout, and I'll explain a couple of things about it.</span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsLKdOtqdOMdVlRkAgSVJDC4xR9taqr9pg06Ny1M3TkX-2JiQ84uh6gtB9HhpksAmSp5L7rHJ6zU77IGs5dR8_2rsdk_f29OsYvx5AjkBKhPTilUAcZt-_gl3ICXOKb80Gyj3DFT291Tw/s2048/AEA+layout+for+matching.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsLKdOtqdOMdVlRkAgSVJDC4xR9taqr9pg06Ny1M3TkX-2JiQ84uh6gtB9HhpksAmSp5L7rHJ6zU77IGs5dR8_2rsdk_f29OsYvx5AjkBKhPTilUAcZt-_gl3ICXOKb80Gyj3DFT291Tw/w640-h480/AEA+layout+for+matching.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I had to put the fabric on the floor! And I don't do this as easily as I did when I was in high school--but it was worth it. So-the Left Front is at upper left in the photo. The Left Back is next to it. Right Front is the next piece, then the Left Back. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">On the bottom, you can see one Sleeve pinned on the lengthwise grain. This is fine because, as I said earlier, this is an even weave and a tightly woven fabric. The long Collar piece is next, then the Pocket on the proper circles. The blank space above the Collar is where I'll cut the other Sleeve. I should also say that because of the nature of this all-over, non-directional print, no one will realize that the Sleeves have been cut on different grains.</span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">I hope this helps you understand matching fabric motifs. I hope you will also join me in creating one of these shirts. I'll be showing you how I stitch mine in upcoming blogs. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;">At the beginning, I said I'd mention sizing. This shirt is intended to be somewhat oversized. It's just part of the fun look of the shirt. Please look carefully at the Finished Garment Measurements on the envelope. Compare your body measurements to them. Decide how much ease you want, then decide on which size to make. Remember, if you go down a size from the one you usually use, the neck will be smaller too. You might want to cut the neckline and Collar at your usual size. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: georgia; font-size: large;"><br /></span></div>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-84383070208546366132020-12-21T11:55:00.001-05:002020-12-21T11:55:40.094-05:00<p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Hello everyone,</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Well, wouldn't you know! The other day, Louise and I were talking about which fabrics we should feature next, when she came up with another interesting idea.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Recently, we've been working with boiled wool, and we published our pdf called <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/c/p/Give-a-LIttle-Take-a-Little-PDF-003-x53674683.htm" target="_blank">"Give a Little, Take a Little"</a> about how to use special techniques to create garments with that wonderful fabric. Louise said, "Let's use those techniques with denim and let the raw edges fray." </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"> So I did a couple of little samples to see how it looked, and I liked it. Below, I'll show you how I made these samples of overlapped seams with frayed edges. If you'd like to make a complete garment finished with this great look, you might want to download <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/c/p/Give-a-LIttle-Take-a-Little-PDF-003-x53674683.htm" target="_blank">"Give a Little, Take a Little"</a> from the website.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I cut small pieces of denim and stitched 5/8" from the cut edge to give myself a guideline. I applied a strip of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> to the edge, leaving a bit of room next to the stitching. I didn't want to glue the very edge of the piece I would apply on top, because that would prevent the overlapped edge from fraying. And the fraying was exactly what I wanted. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">By the way, if working with boiled wool, don't use Steam-a-Seam. We have <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/NN-010027-x53533196.htm" target="_blank">double-sided sticky tape</a>, which works better on the boiled wool. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I made 2 samples. In the photo, the paper backing was still on the Steam-a-Seam so you could see it clearly.<br /></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfxKmXUQH9GJuiYA4pxl8WEUNK21kd7uWKtRz61HogL1qHJhrJDeBFkusV_YTaoHVY3c2PV1pi51-VsRHbJt-xu7EdiTxJBaVIT9i61fMdNOPNVajmshn94bbDui9FvZTL6IytysGeSkE/s2048/denim+frayed+1+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1918" data-original-width="2048" height="600" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfxKmXUQH9GJuiYA4pxl8WEUNK21kd7uWKtRz61HogL1qHJhrJDeBFkusV_YTaoHVY3c2PV1pi51-VsRHbJt-xu7EdiTxJBaVIT9i61fMdNOPNVajmshn94bbDui9FvZTL6IytysGeSkE/w640-h600/denim+frayed+1+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Next, I removed the paper backing and lapped another piece of denim on top so that its cut edge just barely hid the stitched guideline (it's in gold thread above). Of course, if I had been making a garment rather than a sample, I would have cut off 5/8" from this second edge to maintain the proper amount of fabric taken up in the seam. Details are in <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/c/p/Give-a-LIttle-Take-a-Little-PDF-003-x53674683.htm" target="_blank">"Give a Little, Take a Little". </a><br /> <br /></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh96kksXJ7T7_k3nCPed8UQt8m2hbNRwanmGtiqYebgwywP1yvmVzYoCv_EzbBRqtgDa_fnSSGZmfqyqQHu7CAYTNdRb-DnuAA9eUpPT984CLsgg9KfljUhBoYMyP46uX2lnyfpuHigRU/s2048/denim+frayed+2+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1377" data-original-width="2048" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh96kksXJ7T7_k3nCPed8UQt8m2hbNRwanmGtiqYebgwywP1yvmVzYoCv_EzbBRqtgDa_fnSSGZmfqyqQHu7CAYTNdRb-DnuAA9eUpPT984CLsgg9KfljUhBoYMyP46uX2lnyfpuHigRU/w640-h430/denim+frayed+2+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">You can just see the gold thread of the stitched guideline peeking out of the bottom of this sample above.</span></span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ1E4wV8qoDx3Nz2g5igcC5oSxztyDdp5Q24qly4LwTKLZLA471vn3q3wyNF9dscVXKQO9V4ak7KzFPEP-qbl_AOE9E3hGQ72jg23wohFtUuDkXYhZYzZoLG_OD5n1psVwiU9hDRmQ82w/s2048/denim+frayed+3+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1911" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ1E4wV8qoDx3Nz2g5igcC5oSxztyDdp5Q24qly4LwTKLZLA471vn3q3wyNF9dscVXKQO9V4ak7KzFPEP-qbl_AOE9E3hGQ72jg23wohFtUuDkXYhZYzZoLG_OD5n1psVwiU9hDRmQ82w/w598-h640/denim+frayed+3+%25282%2529.jpg" width="598" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Press with your iron to fuse the layers. These seams are easy to handle now because the Steam-a-Seam is holding them. </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">It's time to stitch. I moved my needle to the left of center and used an edge-stitching foot to sew the first line of stitching.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTQT9UbMaQGmapWWV3-0fBVmA7pcV4UExFjvQ4QEtWDDjLyXUnj6xSLkLItC7skOoFmmhqjE5UP21YPuiOTBM4phd68FkaeCsQR5mtUlQb7n4IWWXGuEOBjyElEJull3YuUNFhzboKlnU/s2048/denim+frayed+4+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2013" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTQT9UbMaQGmapWWV3-0fBVmA7pcV4UExFjvQ4QEtWDDjLyXUnj6xSLkLItC7skOoFmmhqjE5UP21YPuiOTBM4phd68FkaeCsQR5mtUlQb7n4IWWXGuEOBjyElEJull3YuUNFhzboKlnU/w630-h640/denim+frayed+4+%25282%2529.jpg" width="630" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I changed to my general purpose foot, lined up the edge of the fabric with the edge of the foot, and stitched a second line. This photo shows the relationship of the Steam-a-Seam, the stitched guideline underneath, and the 2 lines of topstitching.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI0xR13nbpjj2pm0hBDOvBMr7q_5wFA_kV2VQb4MlYW7tjjPs7q3eLsu5lBfmIjdRFYDUk11NK_FtNPXL7RZ-0_N6wucu4HCg9LBTG2bBgzfLtkiTJ1tntC55W-1HBs2YM6iAXc3nFKew/s2048/denim+frayed+5+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1963" data-original-width="2048" height="614" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI0xR13nbpjj2pm0hBDOvBMr7q_5wFA_kV2VQb4MlYW7tjjPs7q3eLsu5lBfmIjdRFYDUk11NK_FtNPXL7RZ-0_N6wucu4HCg9LBTG2bBgzfLtkiTJ1tntC55W-1HBs2YM6iAXc3nFKew/w640-h614/denim+frayed+5+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;">Fortunately, I needed to do a load of laundry, so the samples went in with everything else, taking a spin through the washing machine and the dryer. When they emerged, I pressed them lightly and took photos.</span><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDWN2WPHBYblfJz7AM-QCszZLnRD4bE7_yg4H8YvdWgebkYuFXVXLoT5U6BJX_uuS8wdz5DZw1FKkahbrCgadPiXK5_6s32sg6wnbZpyw9w3h0Yap0OnJFRpqO4-bvlGYYXWNaJWlliPk/s2048/denim+frayed+7+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1848" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDWN2WPHBYblfJz7AM-QCszZLnRD4bE7_yg4H8YvdWgebkYuFXVXLoT5U6BJX_uuS8wdz5DZw1FKkahbrCgadPiXK5_6s32sg6wnbZpyw9w3h0Yap0OnJFRpqO4-bvlGYYXWNaJWlliPk/w578-h640/denim+frayed+7+%25282%2529.jpg" width="578" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQFFIPdyYBrm8VY4nSrsnw24mncX77npqFkx3OHS4UF4vuRUNhyi_i0aqI8GYuu9xHfOMpylGo3CmMg1zAJKIvF7AXa4iz0ec5gJunDfGK-ZhR7jSzR9n9ZmnArZhGu0UhYQndGWJnoho/s2048/denim+frayed+6+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1641" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQFFIPdyYBrm8VY4nSrsnw24mncX77npqFkx3OHS4UF4vuRUNhyi_i0aqI8GYuu9xHfOMpylGo3CmMg1zAJKIvF7AXa4iz0ec5gJunDfGK-ZhR7jSzR9n9ZmnArZhGu0UhYQndGWJnoho/w512-h640/denim+frayed+6+%25282%2529.jpg" width="512" /></a></div></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">This was my initial experiment and it showed me that the technique could be a success. I could see this around the edges of pockets, as a seam finish, around the edges of a collar, and down the front of a garment on the joined facings/garment fronts. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I think I'd like it even better if my first line of topstitching had been just a few threads further from the cut edge, letting just a bit more fraying take place.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Give this a try. It's fun to play around. Be sure to make samples first--mine only took a few minutes. That way, you'll be sure to get just the look you want.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">This is one of the gifts of sewing. You get to create your own distinctive look while you relax and play with fabric. Have fun!<br /><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span></span> <br /></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-79854359714789450502020-11-06T16:05:00.001-05:002020-11-06T16:05:33.539-05:00<p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Hi everybody,</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I promised you part 2 of transitioning from a flat-fell seam to a side vent. If you didn't see my last blog from Monday, you might want to go back and look at it, so you see the entire process.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I made a second sample using exactly the same configuration as the first--5/8" wide side vents, etc. I serged both the front and back seam allowances as on sample 1. Once again, I clipped straight into the side seam allowances to the side seam stitching, making those clips 1/2" above the side vent dot. I trimmed the back seam allowance to 1/8". I folded the front seam allowance onto itself at 1/4", then pressed it over the trimmed back seam allowance, fusing it with Steam-a-Seam. I also fused the tops of the side vent allowances after folding the top edges at 45 degrees. All this is shown in the previous blog, along with photos of stitching the miters at the vent/hem corner and the topstitching I wasn't especially happy with.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I simplified the stitching on this second sample, and I like it much better. After following the steps used on the first sample, I decided to edgestitch only on the side of the seam where I had folded over the front seam allowance. I did not stitch right at the original stitching of the seam, as I did on sample 1. Here's the result.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrYgQkQmYEzYNaSKPb5EFFDD0o9wT3vAKbeiaJddZlFTky1WE0LaQPtDJoy22vettIv_oKELQA9kTPEcQDTZU1vZ10llZSpmWDDwQt2QLs-Gaa5q0s_HsNHt7dWvyGRm2faRnQDmnaBgw/s2048/20201021_163901.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrYgQkQmYEzYNaSKPb5EFFDD0o9wT3vAKbeiaJddZlFTky1WE0LaQPtDJoy22vettIv_oKELQA9kTPEcQDTZU1vZ10llZSpmWDDwQt2QLs-Gaa5q0s_HsNHt7dWvyGRm2faRnQDmnaBgw/w480-h640/20201021_163901.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">The photo above shows the edgestitching along the folded and fused front seam allowance, which has been folded over onto the back. I've also stitched the side vent in place, although it's hard to see that stitching. <br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">What I haven't shown you before is that I left long thread tails on my edgestitching along the seam. I tied a knot at the end of the edgestitching, then used a handstitching needle to hide the thread tails in the side vent. I left the ends so you could see what I did, but they will get cut off to finish. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Here's the right side of the sample.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF97qBgFnYMFxNcRDo_qqiCCYxoC6yJ9bg4zLUQutbyqmFDUU9n2CmN3uEZn4iR6cbwjH3zk6opDPUWXe7Jv1-sE0QquMqkhWYnYK5J3SUycQx7dXTmmmqIomTuf_XOYvf62ujx_9RI20/s2048/20201021_163946_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF97qBgFnYMFxNcRDo_qqiCCYxoC6yJ9bg4zLUQutbyqmFDUU9n2CmN3uEZn4iR6cbwjH3zk6opDPUWXe7Jv1-sE0QquMqkhWYnYK5J3SUycQx7dXTmmmqIomTuf_XOYvf62ujx_9RI20/w480-h640/20201021_163946_01.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">So much simple, clearer, and less fussy than my first sample. I like it much better.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Many of our patterns use a 1-1/4" wide side vent. I thought I'd try that. To begin, I serged down the seam allowances, across the diagonal top of the side vent, and down its vertical edges. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Once I did the first steps, I realized that even though I had serged diagonal edges at the top of the side vents, I still had 5/8" raw edges where I had clipped into the seam allowances. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">So once I had the front seam allowances folded and fused to the back, I realized I would need to fold the diagonal tops of the side vent.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">You can see the raw edge resulting from clipping into the seam allowances. You're looking at the back side vent folded over to the front, so you can see what I'm doing. Also, you can see the dot where the seam edgestitching needs to end so it meets the diagonal stitching I'll do on the diagonal vent edge. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /> <br /></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_GyJ5O83ng7EztULsteqwaethuNzx6Sr4KzzpLpff6l7kUv8dVHP2dHrXqrJZQ9TDYOkT3US6tvPDNjHst-eC1zKzp0JgPGkvIbtedBhFt0olm4E5sWvJ9_B69bW5AvP3by1isp6kGms/s2048/20201027_121720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_GyJ5O83ng7EztULsteqwaethuNzx6Sr4KzzpLpff6l7kUv8dVHP2dHrXqrJZQ9TDYOkT3US6tvPDNjHst-eC1zKzp0JgPGkvIbtedBhFt0olm4E5sWvJ9_B69bW5AvP3by1isp6kGms/w480-h640/20201027_121720.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">This is so much explanation. It's difficult to convey the tiny details in words, but the photos really show the process, so I hope they are clear to you. </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Here's a view of the lines I drew to indicate where I should fold. One edge is already folded.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFBqpVmkHkIkIhTcwdaLQjWUA26evrNaqWLhvN8fzByZwl9inCtKru5XNnO-XRqruK7Uu2pNW3fjIdpMSCN9mFeeM0mXr9nSn22aAwoTltiarX-JLIh8AZ3gJnx0q6Uxg07zQ9FFd3JlY/s2048/20201027_121818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFBqpVmkHkIkIhTcwdaLQjWUA26evrNaqWLhvN8fzByZwl9inCtKru5XNnO-XRqruK7Uu2pNW3fjIdpMSCN9mFeeM0mXr9nSn22aAwoTltiarX-JLIh8AZ3gJnx0q6Uxg07zQ9FFd3JlY/w480-h640/20201027_121818.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /> Both diagonal edges folded.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHcEEZ5HLLiX3Ach5MIdy24_dnQHTWve-Usr9L7fxl7jR5zbgPO2rzU7cmHirjHooQnUJ6n8dw9rVFfNpPKJkDoiCHjVagKCPdhIRN57V3jECzHXf-LPkigDPnJQ0BtUvu9UxJkGenv4g/s2048/20201027_122100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHcEEZ5HLLiX3Ach5MIdy24_dnQHTWve-Usr9L7fxl7jR5zbgPO2rzU7cmHirjHooQnUJ6n8dw9rVFfNpPKJkDoiCHjVagKCPdhIRN57V3jECzHXf-LPkigDPnJQ0BtUvu9UxJkGenv4g/w480-h640/20201027_122100.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Edgestitching is done along the flat-fell seam. Once the diagonal edges were fused, I could stick a pin through to mark where that seam edgestitching should end. I left long thread tails. If you're worried about that little bit of raw edge at the bottom of the seam, you can secure it with a drop of Fray-Check.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Here it is from the right side.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1t2iSGC0wI8H7ojGMI4IV4Xa-7GPq3nXlXAVVVZsCgBb7GmMZle3y1fWO7ukvYcMC24tdxCd2iDxTlkbmtehy1bO942EXJExiZLQHVK6vV-ePp3q6_aHePeFIlNGUpCwrSkaoThagFTk/s2048/20201027_122139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1t2iSGC0wI8H7ojGMI4IV4Xa-7GPq3nXlXAVVVZsCgBb7GmMZle3y1fWO7ukvYcMC24tdxCd2iDxTlkbmtehy1bO942EXJExiZLQHVK6vV-ePp3q6_aHePeFIlNGUpCwrSkaoThagFTk/w480-h640/20201027_122139.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">As I said, my explanation sounds much more complicated than the process actually is. Look at the photos and make a couple of samples. You'll quickly see how to make a smooth, neat transition from a flat fell seam to a side vent.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Be sure to go back to my previous blog to get a head start! </span><br /><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span></span> <br /></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-44242990953938836812020-11-02T19:06:00.000-05:002020-11-02T19:06:37.694-05:00<p style="text-align: left;"> <span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Hello everyone,</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Recently a sewer asked me about transitioning from a flat-fell seam to a side vent. She was making a shirt from our pattern called A Subtle Twist (by the way, it is now discontinued, but this blog will apply to other shirts as well). </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I was not particularly pleased with all aspects of my first experiment with solving the problem, but I'm going to show it to you so you can see the process--and what I didn't really like. Then in my next blog I'll show you what I like better. So let's get to it. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">A Subtle Twist includes 5/8" wide side vents. Here's a photo of the wrong side of the Front showing you the dot where the side seam ends at the top of the side vent, the miters at the hem corners (we draft those for you), and the hem. You can see that I've already serged the side seam and hem edges.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwBll4c_Z2aMd_I5A_ksRvOy9CC9KxVX6PZBV-MR92WLoBQmDiJuFUhQV-GOlO7y6lRrOxrWT60ttjVU9Wm5Z57CCkL2L11PPTBGR2btB6Da-dF7jLi7aspGzk0nOsyK8QnKQQJcR4DM/s2048/20201015_130118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOwBll4c_Z2aMd_I5A_ksRvOy9CC9KxVX6PZBV-MR92WLoBQmDiJuFUhQV-GOlO7y6lRrOxrWT60ttjVU9Wm5Z57CCkL2L11PPTBGR2btB6Da-dF7jLi7aspGzk0nOsyK8QnKQQJcR4DM/w480-h640/20201015_130118.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Here you can see that I've created the back piece of the sample, serged it, and stitched it to the front piece, stitching the side seam to the dot. I've pressed the seam allowances open, continuing to press the remaining portions of the seam at 5/8" down to the corner miters, forming the vent. Finally, I trimmed the back seam allowance to 1/8" down to a point 1/2" above the dot. It's important not to trim all the way down to the dot! At the bottom of the trimmed back seam allowance, be sure you've clipped all the way to the side seam stitching. (I had to do it later!)</span><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"></span><span style="font-size: large;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgppD0tMkazU1zGcbeqsc77Yj9Q_K0JjU5cszkRwRcYVTO84iVyQHuay8buJNswp9_mPG02JgrdgmIUfsiN93NQJsb0mntjG6aaqBZKOZh3Bkb90Zd0GXL87BIumZGKWfRxPKzrG9bAARM/s2048/20201015_131055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgppD0tMkazU1zGcbeqsc77Yj9Q_K0JjU5cszkRwRcYVTO84iVyQHuay8buJNswp9_mPG02JgrdgmIUfsiN93NQJsb0mntjG6aaqBZKOZh3Bkb90Zd0GXL87BIumZGKWfRxPKzrG9bAARM/w480-h640/20201015_131055.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Next, I used our 1/4" <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Pressing-Template-x37619687.htm" target="_blank">Pressing Template</a> to press the front part of the side seam allowance. Again, I had to clip all the way to the side seam stitching before pressing. You can see how this would create a weak spot if you did this at the dot.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDzr82vCVkAI7OCJiLPzjyr4TaJxqI8szWOeBOpqLg2_TN1838lUmWCn5f9GNNTr6yocFZ5fnI2C9DVAtrj2TPsKpigZuMtZ_omMtzbBgvUDl_qHIhBlmKoacftuIs_g8R6eYhPfue4c/s2048/20201015_131325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDzr82vCVkAI7OCJiLPzjyr4TaJxqI8szWOeBOpqLg2_TN1838lUmWCn5f9GNNTr6yocFZ5fnI2C9DVAtrj2TPsKpigZuMtZ_omMtzbBgvUDl_qHIhBlmKoacftuIs_g8R6eYhPfue4c/w480-h640/20201015_131325.jpg" width="480" /></a></div> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Next, I pressed the folded front seam allowance over the back seam allowance. (By the way, having the serging tames that raw edge and makes it easier to press.) I slid a strip of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> under that folded seam allowance. Get it all the way under, press lightly, and peel off the paper backing. (I didn't want to slide mine all the way under yet--you wouldn't have been able to see it!) I pressed again to fuse.</span><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46v9KsA91hDtKrFwMs9dNpuC29wi1G8-U7jOkg-LMOqr1NQS82xkrhG-x9DTeHNOkdlGy8eH6S_8v7wJ8ZTn3zhb2LTtSPcJGicUwOlSQFS3lRNpLkXR4jlv-Kjy63iSJgQrT7C5Z7qQ/s2048/20201015_131440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi46v9KsA91hDtKrFwMs9dNpuC29wi1G8-U7jOkg-LMOqr1NQS82xkrhG-x9DTeHNOkdlGy8eH6S_8v7wJ8ZTn3zhb2LTtSPcJGicUwOlSQFS3lRNpLkXR4jlv-Kjy63iSJgQrT7C5Z7qQ/w480-h640/20201015_131440.jpg" width="480" /></a></div></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">Note that in the photo above, I have 2 raw edges at the top of the side vent (just above the dot). </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Here's the front seam allowance fused in place. Also, I've turned down those 2 little raw edges to make a prettier finish. Slide little bits of Steam-a-Seam under just those angled edges and fuse them also.</span><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC8vtyAEKxaDx8aj1xbnJT3QUqSmKeCGsk1sBfXL1VpJJia1H54T0OJD6GEd5kmFuxfTn3Zb_atKDa06aPLMFfbVtIrpqiF4CGth73xJ7KZeATKh4DrXmWEggrxaaO3b1ZlRpCYYDlPQM/s2048/20201015_132020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC8vtyAEKxaDx8aj1xbnJT3QUqSmKeCGsk1sBfXL1VpJJia1H54T0OJD6GEd5kmFuxfTn3Zb_atKDa06aPLMFfbVtIrpqiF4CGth73xJ7KZeATKh4DrXmWEggrxaaO3b1ZlRpCYYDlPQM/w480-h640/20201015_132020.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Now you're ready to stitch the miters. These will be uneven miters, because the side vent is 5/8" wide, but the hem is 1-1/4" wide. The thing to note is that the diagonal seam allowance for the miters is 3/8" (shown in the first photo), so the serged edges must cross at 3/8". It's simple if you can see a photo--. The top pin is at 3/8". Stitch from that top pin to the corner--we always place a dot at that corner to help you.</span><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsxNU5joIgx8avimLH7Rj09nkGjmW4HIyVJ4FTG1LREKCBMRFbMyS80lW84uY15SzZWTuRKbHA5QJW20YdaCnxFOYtXfEaE8EkZK07-SjWMmkk__RUnax7U4xs-TQ532TN5uFBhalv-dk/s2048/20201015_132426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsxNU5joIgx8avimLH7Rj09nkGjmW4HIyVJ4FTG1LREKCBMRFbMyS80lW84uY15SzZWTuRKbHA5QJW20YdaCnxFOYtXfEaE8EkZK07-SjWMmkk__RUnax7U4xs-TQ532TN5uFBhalv-dk/w480-h640/20201015_132426.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Once you've stitched, you'll trim the corner of the miter diagonally and press its short seam allowances open over a point press. Turn them right side out.</span><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhWgJef493LvNkZMtR9NvDZUSv7gDpMBjewagokl1W8tBtDyGawX3WlW2KEusJHF7OOEueQBPFSa1TJtWySZxugvgWeJJMGBQLJW4ls4aUWeKQf-eTbJk3yQKzvZykR3sDq164Whr6w8/s2048/20201015_133358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhWgJef493LvNkZMtR9NvDZUSv7gDpMBjewagokl1W8tBtDyGawX3WlW2KEusJHF7OOEueQBPFSa1TJtWySZxugvgWeJJMGBQLJW4ls4aUWeKQf-eTbJk3yQKzvZykR3sDq164Whr6w8/w480-h640/20201015_133358.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;"><span style="font-size: large;">So this is where I started wondering just how I wanted to proceed. I tried what we often do with flat fell seams. I used my edgestitching foot and stitched (working from the wrong side), down both sides of the seam and across the bottom, right where the trimmed seam allowances end. Then I stitched across the hem, up one side of the vent till I was even with the dot, pivoted and stitched up the angle at the top of the vent, and the same on the other side of the vent. </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <br /></div></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsu4WiyIrVkz6kn8jbuTfsAQFQXVoOLeHxgS3qWTbNEHqUyJ5kRP6H-FcS4ki4VU_qLj1zU7FrkSTYvySiRAm6c7_7gZUNcTGgscsR7aYJn8qamNifgB3bcH8nl2mHS8PKHBec1JVgr6w/s2048/20201015_134900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsu4WiyIrVkz6kn8jbuTfsAQFQXVoOLeHxgS3qWTbNEHqUyJ5kRP6H-FcS4ki4VU_qLj1zU7FrkSTYvySiRAm6c7_7gZUNcTGgscsR7aYJn8qamNifgB3bcH8nl2mHS8PKHBec1JVgr6w/w480-h640/20201015_134900.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /></div><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I thought I had done ok, till I looked at the right side. I thought it looked way too fussy. It's hard to match up all the lines of stitching, and I think the look is overly complicated.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDkCrP8xFSDM2cexOA3Dwfmc2KyhG6CSNYn2pjibnLVeRYXCbmMSnI47AqwjuY-RT2trzqBhFR39byMu0xRa_yC0WAuXZaDMBKEFIlOzvJPpij6-HsUKaB-pjygoclvDSAefNRncEJD8/s2048/20201015_135053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYDkCrP8xFSDM2cexOA3Dwfmc2KyhG6CSNYn2pjibnLVeRYXCbmMSnI47AqwjuY-RT2trzqBhFR39byMu0xRa_yC0WAuXZaDMBKEFIlOzvJPpij6-HsUKaB-pjygoclvDSAefNRncEJD8/w480-h640/20201015_135053.jpg" width="480" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I decided to try again, cleaning up the final appearance. I liked those results better, so I'll show you those in the next blog. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I wanted to go though all these steps with you, though, so you could see the whole process and perhaps learn from my not so lovely first attempt at figuring out how to topstitch this configuration.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">See you next time!<br /> </span><br /></div></span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /></span></span><p></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-17080374851769364862020-08-31T10:42:00.000-04:002020-08-31T10:42:19.175-04:00<p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Hi everyone,</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"> As promised, today I'd like to show you how to add sleeves to the boxtop (view B) in the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/This-or-That-x37619636.htm" target="_blank">This or That</a> pattern. Here's the boxtop with sleeves that I made for my Summer Wardrobe in the group of plum, green, and white fabrics.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOU4vIsE3N5KT_ZkrKz34E3haHvLnyvw37QkycM-ukaDxKsUuvgOPTkqYpPAwuY5GlMKZe6y9Gb5Ur4AYcUnkEhooY5cMKDWKn5kQ9-9q9JS_CFi1fEpWqU58ks-It3qP_CtHHVHa8r0E/s1000/20200823_163502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOU4vIsE3N5KT_ZkrKz34E3haHvLnyvw37QkycM-ukaDxKsUuvgOPTkqYpPAwuY5GlMKZe6y9Gb5Ur4AYcUnkEhooY5cMKDWKn5kQ9-9q9JS_CFi1fEpWqU58ks-It3qP_CtHHVHa8r0E/s640/20200823_163502.jpg" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I chose a mesh fabric from my stash that happened to go with the pants (<a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Easy-Ageless-Cool-x37619524.htm" target="_blank">Easy Ageless Cool</a>) and shell (<a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Putting-It-Together-x37619688.htm" target="_blank">Putting It Together</a>) that I had made earlier. Please keep in mind that this boxtop can also be worn over the other striped shell in the wardrobe as well as the dress/tunic in the flocked white fabric, a pattern hack from the Putting It Together shell. One garment = 3 new looks. (I covered the how-to's of that dress/tunic in my previous blog.)<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9sMl3GwAwBpODGXfoO3itNJutHVZabAntvn03u7LlQeuzRa9Zqf2TDFhB4o51lo9abNMwd5U-PoLov_cD5i052ohZQh1lzoOyVPtux8BCBkfnJqrev0qpTnI97kwu6hfRWIWWLGLzLfw/s300/pt_041707_1_200x300.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="200" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9sMl3GwAwBpODGXfoO3itNJutHVZabAntvn03u7LlQeuzRa9Zqf2TDFhB4o51lo9abNMwd5U-PoLov_cD5i052ohZQh1lzoOyVPtux8BCBkfnJqrev0qpTnI97kwu6hfRWIWWLGLzLfw/w250-h375/pt_041707_1_200x300.png" width="250" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">As you can see from the envelope, the boxtop (on the left) has no sleeves. But we're creative, and we can add them if we want them. First, I decided on how big around I wanted my boxtop to be by consulting the measurements included in the pattern. Then I used the following steps to draft a sleeve pattern--really easy!</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">The original pattern has dots that mark the armhole. I laid the pattern on some tracing paper and marked those dots. I also marked the shoulder point.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpLPPSi7jw1vd9VfpdsWEe19YcKyQc0ByPUr5bNV_Tuznb74KKwNUAN_a-l2zN6-BvcLgXJjQe4t8BoZQ39-ADDmYQ37FJc3eVfZ7n6TMnb-z7BUnbG8L_QlDTA-RrPeyXH4Z7CeVFMKk/s2048/boxtop+sleeve+width.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpLPPSi7jw1vd9VfpdsWEe19YcKyQc0ByPUr5bNV_Tuznb74KKwNUAN_a-l2zN6-BvcLgXJjQe4t8BoZQ39-ADDmYQ37FJc3eVfZ7n6TMnb-z7BUnbG8L_QlDTA-RrPeyXH4Z7CeVFMKk/s640/boxtop+sleeve+width.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;">Here's a view of the straight line for the top of the sleeve with those markings.</span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXifkd_VRPekbo6MIs5MCSX96gfPLlHGA84ZcR8p3Dt1_0Ymp58Wu_GdmX9H0_rzTfVGaJ5GRSFhiL2_ZQa1W2gHScDsVgjedMRQ5tNI3RBBITuVgVhl0WCliBj22rv1FbyhFvfXJl3iM/s2048/boxtop+top+of+sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXifkd_VRPekbo6MIs5MCSX96gfPLlHGA84ZcR8p3Dt1_0Ymp58Wu_GdmX9H0_rzTfVGaJ5GRSFhiL2_ZQa1W2gHScDsVgjedMRQ5tNI3RBBITuVgVhl0WCliBj22rv1FbyhFvfXJl3iM/s640/boxtop+top+of+sleeve.jpg" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Then I drew the sides of the sleeves by drawing perpendicular lines 5/8" away from my original marks, to give me the seam allowances.<br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgir_OWXt8gxNEadM8xMJCn9OB-izDOOCsdbZNjNlJV_inBL10_eZPkQfaqgOhgVOQpLMXdniJOhzevZpfoCvMeBN55TRAZV8FW1F-BwcodOnh0fEvXewLMJE54CgSNHpbmTFJra8eMErc/s2048/boxtop+add+seam+allowances.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgir_OWXt8gxNEadM8xMJCn9OB-izDOOCsdbZNjNlJV_inBL10_eZPkQfaqgOhgVOQpLMXdniJOhzevZpfoCvMeBN55TRAZV8FW1F-BwcodOnh0fEvXewLMJE54CgSNHpbmTFJra8eMErc/s640/boxtop+add+seam+allowances.jpg" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br />Finally, I added the hem.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcwremxvdyoLuh-rdLv23gNmnzb0PQFmc4ijql2nDxbSm_sNuTPz4MwC5UdSOrRv0vzCU0bnA22k7aXBvvxTDcrTTE8YvjOntmCekabJkqJGuofybGU5SumQV8DTVBVQu5JVklilO0uY/s2048/boxtop+sleeve+hem+added.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhcwremxvdyoLuh-rdLv23gNmnzb0PQFmc4ijql2nDxbSm_sNuTPz4MwC5UdSOrRv0vzCU0bnA22k7aXBvvxTDcrTTE8YvjOntmCekabJkqJGuofybGU5SumQV8DTVBVQu5JVklilO0uY/s640/boxtop+sleeve+hem+added.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br />Obviously, these sleeves are straight. They're short (9", I think) and I didn't want to taper them. The idea of the Summer Wardrobe was easy and casual, so the straight sleeves fit right in.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">I was lucky. The selvedge of my fabric was firmly woven, so I cut my sleeves to have that finished edge at the hem.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHNEUmNV73LVfO4xU7pcOUoVV_ItMb1Yae1yv9GN9sv_Sro1zdvS9cdfk0tN9zxbtEoHaY5HJgIuyUq0TjCjyFYyFBXJ0maUEvk7l7uZ6OQBH0bCCvNbDtNNrZT9uhXel3cO-L3aDrhwM/s2048/boxtop+selvedge+sleeve+hem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHNEUmNV73LVfO4xU7pcOUoVV_ItMb1Yae1yv9GN9sv_Sro1zdvS9cdfk0tN9zxbtEoHaY5HJgIuyUq0TjCjyFYyFBXJ0maUEvk7l7uZ6OQBH0bCCvNbDtNNrZT9uhXel3cO-L3aDrhwM/s640/boxtop+selvedge+sleeve+hem.jpg" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Of course, my first step in sewing the boxtop was to follow the instructions to stitch the binding to the neckline. It's a nice, neat finish. Take another look at the finished boxtop at the top of this blog--you'll see that I used a more firmly woven fabric for the neckline binding. The mesh fabric was too loosely woven to use. I had also serged all my edges.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Then I stitched the side seams. I chose to leave the lower portion of the side seams open as vents. At the top of the side seams, I secured my stitching at the dots marking the armholes. I was ready to pin the sleeves into those armholes. You can see my turquoise dot marking the top of the sleeve.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUATVTqLGMI9Rv2MZ-vl-nDnjKQCynWBNtsczKjdFew7RH75fyuffPyOM6QGw8F4H7Gz-pzBQ37rFk5nBg1eiM4Q5ttNpKI4p39WlhPqPUFtCGO9CY2fTyHmVKhBjbv65BFUEGiXK1yFw/s2048/boxtop+sleeves+pinned+in.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUATVTqLGMI9Rv2MZ-vl-nDnjKQCynWBNtsczKjdFew7RH75fyuffPyOM6QGw8F4H7Gz-pzBQ37rFk5nBg1eiM4Q5ttNpKI4p39WlhPqPUFtCGO9CY2fTyHmVKhBjbv65BFUEGiXK1yFw/s640/boxtop+sleeves+pinned+in.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br /> At the left of the photo above, you can see the seam allowances at the sleeve underarm. When stitching the sleeve into the armhole, push those underarm seam allowances out of the way so they don't get caught in the stitching. There's a pin at the left poking into the bottom of the sleeve showing exactly where to begin your stitching. </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;">Once the sleeves are stitched, press the sleeve seam allowances toward the sleeve.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipNNmLz3n8DT-SHV4RySyMuf4ucLXAosyZpfFRHzgBKUfICRGZc3RRKCLOXKwUJ3JecRh8DGqjQXkE5x2_diGuGVb2StooEtTXI66P1EmAsDUPbzojWrVHBHuTtX7z5i3tgc-LAKgkMyQ/s2048/boxtop+seams+pressed+to+sleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipNNmLz3n8DT-SHV4RySyMuf4ucLXAosyZpfFRHzgBKUfICRGZc3RRKCLOXKwUJ3JecRh8DGqjQXkE5x2_diGuGVb2StooEtTXI66P1EmAsDUPbzojWrVHBHuTtX7z5i3tgc-LAKgkMyQ/s640/boxtop+seams+pressed+to+sleeve.jpg" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: georgia;"><br />Taaaa-Daaa! You've made a garment you didn't know you could make! I love pattern hacks, and I hope you'll play around with your patterns too. </span></span><br /><p></p>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-35063603065060265182020-08-28T17:44:00.002-04:002020-08-28T17:44:43.537-04:00<div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> Hi Everyone!</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">At last I'm ready to show you another project. I've been working on patterns (soon!!), writing newsletters, and helping to create another special project (also coming soon). </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">But I'm so glad to have time to show you another way to use one of your Cutting Line Designs patterns.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">As you know, I've been sewing a casual, comfortable summer wardrobe over the last couple of months. I began with some plum linen, some green linen, and some prints that could work with both. Once I made the green linen pants from <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Easy-Ageless-Cool-x37619524.htm" target="_blank">Easy Ageless Cool</a>, I knew I could make a couple more tops to go with them, expanding this summer wardrobe even more.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I had a very lightweight white cotton with little flecks of green thread woven into it. It would make a floaty, cool something, and I decided to lengthen the shell from <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Putting-It-Together-x37619688.htm" target="_blank">Putting It Together</a> to make a sleeveless dress. Here it is:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcTtyXqSOcp3ErxD_xJKCgCDETlk_5FUqXG5uxEi_-MGnN-9wwlElEy5v-1n-eIeVrCnrN5OPUBS8Qz-VzdhdtUcuLjnduJIB-DnlKgwpckmNf5UeJFV9GMRaMyH5ZRiGWV0zOwWWo1Po/s2048/20200812_163750.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcTtyXqSOcp3ErxD_xJKCgCDETlk_5FUqXG5uxEi_-MGnN-9wwlElEy5v-1n-eIeVrCnrN5OPUBS8Qz-VzdhdtUcuLjnduJIB-DnlKgwpckmNf5UeJFV9GMRaMyH5ZRiGWV0zOwWWo1Po/w600-h800/20200812_163750.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">And a side view:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXtCPJzhu7mWek-C0XPQ2OAF698cB9Fnr4Abxeyp7wGxxTjwL67EC5HY1kCzGizSux0mU5sJJCCYikN5W3PUE9eJJlfBwSmRwP05lEPAGXVTdfybzLOqRcLrTge6UfOFLJ5THMK3aBUSE/s2048/20200817_110831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="800" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXtCPJzhu7mWek-C0XPQ2OAF698cB9Fnr4Abxeyp7wGxxTjwL67EC5HY1kCzGizSux0mU5sJJCCYikN5W3PUE9eJJlfBwSmRwP05lEPAGXVTdfybzLOqRcLrTge6UfOFLJ5THMK3aBUSE/w600-h800/20200817_110831.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> As I began working, I realized that this might need to be a top with long side vents to allow movement over the pants. I can't really wear it as a dress with such high vents (at least in public), but that's ok as I really was after a new top anyway. But you might want to think about this detail if you decide to make this same top. You are your own designer! Once I was all finished, I decided this would get a lot of at-home wear.<br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">The first thing I did was trace the pattern and make it longer.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQhPO4FK_rwo_Bz4wA4od-YgvGU_QZV7aeDR2Nc4Hm45wzMCU2DOcm230rkhFLHwpLll-Xx26ZbgKyGHyM8OCxIZ0ZaZAnuiZS6UtV0GcgRnXoGJOvCM9M6rY5fdu3_BrYSRlvDE6ni4/s2048/20200802_141922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBQhPO4FK_rwo_Bz4wA4od-YgvGU_QZV7aeDR2Nc4Hm45wzMCU2DOcm230rkhFLHwpLll-Xx26ZbgKyGHyM8OCxIZ0ZaZAnuiZS6UtV0GcgRnXoGJOvCM9M6rY5fdu3_BrYSRlvDE6ni4/s640/20200802_141922.jpg" /></a></div><br />I made it just a bit bigger through the hips for more ease over the pants. Look closely at the right side (side seam edge) of the pattern to see that I added 5/8" to make the side vents wider. I thought they would give a more finished look to the garment and add a bit of weight so it would hang better. (The x's are boo-boos!)<br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhfkrqyVxKekXfRM3NnyOV0sfuYpz8JfXSbdNVNj8szRZ28g_jBmRnJFfpDzTtmra7IUeWybNHEh4bmz6_JiMUBkmAjmNaC3bp_vOH0x4KgElCuFN_hH32GFZfKhi0UBDce2muXH89cOY/s2048/20200802_142027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhfkrqyVxKekXfRM3NnyOV0sfuYpz8JfXSbdNVNj8szRZ28g_jBmRnJFfpDzTtmra7IUeWybNHEh4bmz6_JiMUBkmAjmNaC3bp_vOH0x4KgElCuFN_hH32GFZfKhi0UBDce2muXH89cOY/s640/20200802_142027.jpg" /></a></div><br />I drafted the side vent/hem miter. For more info on this, search for miters in this blog or read all about them in Louise's article in the September 2020 (issue 210) Threads Magazine.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I used the neckline facing from the pattern but decided on a lighter finish for the armholes. I cut 1" wide bias strips of white fabric and used my tape maker to make single fold bias tape. If you haven't done this, be sure you press the folds just as they are coming out of the tape maker. Otherwise, the tape unfolds. It's an easy process both for finishes and to make embellishments.<br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbC1AVs2Hkqmr9pp6RnLbUFyBGtsHlmceEUdSqAPRdNtP1NbFBDDm37Q4uGERmApcQp9OuOrlywjrRbcLmYH_FAm76N1Yj9BpZ4BgQya-XtREu4c26-9JYldkU9Hg3T28G8WJZaQpEq20/s2048/PIT+dress+summer+wardrobe+2020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbC1AVs2Hkqmr9pp6RnLbUFyBGtsHlmceEUdSqAPRdNtP1NbFBDDm37Q4uGERmApcQp9OuOrlywjrRbcLmYH_FAm76N1Yj9BpZ4BgQya-XtREu4c26-9JYldkU9Hg3T28G8WJZaQpEq20/s640/PIT+dress+summer+wardrobe+2020.jpg" /></a></div><br /> I trimmed away 3/8" of the seam allowance from the dress's armholes (side seams are not sewn yet). Then I stitched the tape to the armholes in the 1/4" foldline on the <u>right side</u> of the garment.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAHJE9Kr4c_IpphdQI7eAXip9wb-EJbQBnODIYpa70EUxlW-i39FMVgp845ba8Gau05Q8h9JPLSDGnK6Aaz_z3riNE5FcgPe-YF5Dfh5KyOYhj2vr6SszM22fBn-Aal8SNtoqEgepL2go/s2048/20200812_085730+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAHJE9Kr4c_IpphdQI7eAXip9wb-EJbQBnODIYpa70EUxlW-i39FMVgp845ba8Gau05Q8h9JPLSDGnK6Aaz_z3riNE5FcgPe-YF5Dfh5KyOYhj2vr6SszM22fBn-Aal8SNtoqEgepL2go/s640/20200812_085730+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></div></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /> I pressed the seam allowance away from the garment, maintaining the second pressed fold in the tape. Here's the view from the <u>right side.</u> It's helpful to press from both sides.<br /><u></u></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg3rSDQLimyEh8PYL7R9JbN7XKG4MrAMQf4yxmft_Eq-SOjpl1YsSHKtBG655aRMM250YzwHKrOQXiqRGve2ccB3d_pIAnR_R4I1h0OJ9iQQmu65nxQntbllUXuIo1mxe6yNxFev6jAbI/s2048/20200812_085812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhg3rSDQLimyEh8PYL7R9JbN7XKG4MrAMQf4yxmft_Eq-SOjpl1YsSHKtBG655aRMM250YzwHKrOQXiqRGve2ccB3d_pIAnR_R4I1h0OJ9iQQmu65nxQntbllUXuIo1mxe6yNxFev6jAbI/s640/20200812_085812.jpg" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">And from the <u>wrong side</u>.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrL3AugIC-wYRXpmlyvwhA6G6M6M2f2y_5PumDLfkaZap5NHk0Rn9ImS-FbpMNOmmNTTYKTzOQapKd9EFQHcgDvl1Q_re1Lnr7eF1y8PjFSDskbzXkNdlhciXUemkCFbpxF15rl5VUd0Q/s2048/20200812_085802+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrL3AugIC-wYRXpmlyvwhA6G6M6M2f2y_5PumDLfkaZap5NHk0Rn9ImS-FbpMNOmmNTTYKTzOQapKd9EFQHcgDvl1Q_re1Lnr7eF1y8PjFSDskbzXkNdlhciXUemkCFbpxF15rl5VUd0Q/s640/20200812_085802+%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">Next, I pressed the tape into the armhole, favoring the seam a thread or two to the wrong side of the garment.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAJ4UeBKX2dGOOnhl23NhGD5oKuJuXYe2tt2HXivcYiPvyQ0PSmzSFRCeLxSb-_bHKViNZAGmfCtEuzz07gvRYbn0VrePTg6QFXn0ECA6JmHwrYntyzfE4F7622ZJ-oMVSrnBH08DADRc/s2048/20200812_085852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAJ4UeBKX2dGOOnhl23NhGD5oKuJuXYe2tt2HXivcYiPvyQ0PSmzSFRCeLxSb-_bHKViNZAGmfCtEuzz07gvRYbn0VrePTg6QFXn0ECA6JmHwrYntyzfE4F7622ZJ-oMVSrnBH08DADRc/s640/20200812_085852.jpg" /></a></div><span style="font-size: large;"></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I then pinned the side seams, with the tape turned up away from the garment so I could sew it as part of the seam. I turned it back down and trimmed away the excess.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6dnpr_H6vJneYjKOgRTEgLtINhIwRSX6LI6PaqHINhhs8oH28yNierH7rC0oKDVn_mDdkXvnPNCQXF1dJ9d_vbw3ti27ZO2UyzCuE_IeIARAlE-lDAl6-MLM5fQAo2Y6TI4mN1a_tmnc/s2048/binding+detail+PIT+summer+wardrobe+2020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6dnpr_H6vJneYjKOgRTEgLtINhIwRSX6LI6PaqHINhhs8oH28yNierH7rC0oKDVn_mDdkXvnPNCQXF1dJ9d_vbw3ti27ZO2UyzCuE_IeIARAlE-lDAl6-MLM5fQAo2Y6TI4mN1a_tmnc/s640/binding+detail+PIT+summer+wardrobe+2020.jpg" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">After sliding strips of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> under the bias tape, pressing lightly, and removing the paper backing, I pressed the tape again to fuse it in place. Then I just edgestitched the bias tape. It was a quick and easy finish to the armholes.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I pressed the side vents to the inside. With the added 5/8", they are 1-1/4" wide, of course. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxGBzD2f2SOGz5DE4JmCWT1IBsJLnQJIxzxqU-hhqW0o8wK8IVKBchPBDGF1_sBkHs0IbcEw4NI867Q0YUfCJ5OZxjUugGG2qPIiItkYRWmj65kwl_MoRZLeJkbnKx0dPfGWWG5CBkrok/s2048/PIT+summer+wardrobe+2020+side+vent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxGBzD2f2SOGz5DE4JmCWT1IBsJLnQJIxzxqU-hhqW0o8wK8IVKBchPBDGF1_sBkHs0IbcEw4NI867Q0YUfCJ5OZxjUugGG2qPIiItkYRWmj65kwl_MoRZLeJkbnKx0dPfGWWG5CBkrok/s640/PIT+summer+wardrobe+2020+side+vent.jpg" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: large;">At this point, I was ready to press up my 1-1/4" hem, stitch my miters, and try on my new dress/top. </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;">I hope this inspires you to try playing around with your <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Putting-It-Together-x37619688.htm" target="_blank">Putting It Together</a> pattern. You could make your new top any length, from a fingertip-length tunic to an ankle-length dress that would be great to wear while we are all at home so much.<br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><br /></div>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-74095748966517113642020-07-17T13:56:00.002-04:002020-07-17T13:56:33.806-04:00<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Happy hot summer weather to all of you!</span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">SUMMER WARDROBE UPDATE</span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Finally, another garment! This time, it's the shell from the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Putting-It-Together-x37619688.htm" target="_blank">Putting It Together</a> pattern. I was happy to discover that I had enough fabric left over from the original shirt to make a matching shell, stretching this little wardrobe even further.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">As a reminder, here's the original shirt from <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/The-Blouse-Perfected-x37619518.htm" target="_blank">The Blouse Perfected pattern</a>. I wrote about it in an earlier blog, along with the original pair of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/One-Seam-Pants-x37619526.htm" target="_blank">One-Seam Pants</a>.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwrHlpRJPluCMxvlANHzzhwsAaQ1YkdE7wqkqT9K6_etOWnXXe6P9Nz_Ffh2DSHJRpwL9cYhy-UbepcD3MebJQaPFhjsAoEPC2mIJw1K6xQLvpRmTRjqzp2d44by5nV6bLav_eFexQPU/s1600/20200612_101220+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1044" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUwrHlpRJPluCMxvlANHzzhwsAaQ1YkdE7wqkqT9K6_etOWnXXe6P9Nz_Ffh2DSHJRpwL9cYhy-UbepcD3MebJQaPFhjsAoEPC2mIJw1K6xQLvpRmTRjqzp2d44by5nV6bLav_eFexQPU/s640/20200612_101220+%25282%2529.jpg" width="416" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">With the leftover fabric, I made this shell.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9wNMwtwC4X2zvtkdrNdgNl_-T_XhFaeArajEqF3Qn8XNJFlYz-_A24z-e6uNB5Ed1Q-1e3HwSV3iMb8UD1R1fjOs1FTnrnTszRT1SJFqc3yNZ1lw4rUGdSzU0CwhG1DtNTi_UoWeXQyM/s1600/PIT+shell+summer+wardrobe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9wNMwtwC4X2zvtkdrNdgNl_-T_XhFaeArajEqF3Qn8XNJFlYz-_A24z-e6uNB5Ed1Q-1e3HwSV3iMb8UD1R1fjOs1FTnrnTszRT1SJFqc3yNZ1lw4rUGdSzU0CwhG1DtNTi_UoWeXQyM/s640/PIT+shell+summer+wardrobe.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">You can just glimpse the "cheater strips" I added at the shoulders. I had a problem--not enough fabric to match the stripes over the shoulders. So I used a simple fix. First, I stitched the shoulder seams wrong sides together, so the seam allowances were on the outside of the garment. I trimmed them to 1/4" and pressed them open. Unfortunately, I forgot to photograph that till I already had moved ahead several steps, but this photo will show you anyway.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGf0hLGLbxwgUs3uEeio8tK_BUnHd6NUUFtkT4IuRTwDfiNBB9za0NX3mnnid1vsjsN6aWkB-Aa2qT9HhMLiTGmssCE6C34dsy7Qr5KHnxjOPFGuF3AxhIBUjxnsedyMqthbU9QB8eCr4/s1600/cheater+strips+wrong+side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGf0hLGLbxwgUs3uEeio8tK_BUnHd6NUUFtkT4IuRTwDfiNBB9za0NX3mnnid1vsjsN6aWkB-Aa2qT9HhMLiTGmssCE6C34dsy7Qr5KHnxjOPFGuF3AxhIBUjxnsedyMqthbU9QB8eCr4/s640/cheater+strips+wrong+side.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I cut two strips of fabric with the plum and white stripes at the center. I folded the raw edges under, pressed, and trimmed. Then I used <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> to fuse those strips over the shoulder seam allowances on the right side of the garment. Finally, I edgestitched the strips. Here's how that looked.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-uq80E7MwzqIMOVD4GXVGP5GB2PcAqHNp4tp9Xi7cdNF3FaHJKRbBDavr69BpXUJ1iDKsMz8uFxyLWypIMs0jXCObwkefR1cDxqf_cNwJ4vv6sH6qJ4TO_edM5_P5POMrqgaqV4Hz-o/s1600/cheater+strips+right+side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc-uq80E7MwzqIMOVD4GXVGP5GB2PcAqHNp4tp9Xi7cdNF3FaHJKRbBDavr69BpXUJ1iDKsMz8uFxyLWypIMs0jXCObwkefR1cDxqf_cNwJ4vv6sH6qJ4TO_edM5_P5POMrqgaqV4Hz-o/s640/cheater+strips+right+side.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"> When worn, the stripes will look just fine.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I'll mention a couple of other construction items. Once I stitched the facings to the garment, I graded and clipped the seam allowances. Finally, I pressed those seam allowances open. That makes it easy to turn the facings to the inside accurately. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEW7siDdlsmWj50McQPmslgbhAOabJWVVkbIO-bhpm1QJZm7wjHKt_nZsLjhGFzNNZcdEuPiikUt9Cg5Efmwtn4Pa9Y8f-RxmqbsfWaq7TCqIYU_VKHT7KZHmbK3c5fB41wyC9wkEcN-A/s1600/seam+allowances+pressed+open.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEW7siDdlsmWj50McQPmslgbhAOabJWVVkbIO-bhpm1QJZm7wjHKt_nZsLjhGFzNNZcdEuPiikUt9Cg5Efmwtn4Pa9Y8f-RxmqbsfWaq7TCqIYU_VKHT7KZHmbK3c5fB41wyC9wkEcN-A/s640/seam+allowances+pressed+open.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Oh, right--you may be wondering why the facings are a different fabric. Again, stripes on the facings wouldn't match the garment's stripes, and I was afraid the mismatch would show through to the right side. So I chose a solid fabric that harmonized and cut the facings from that. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">As you may know, we draft all the miters included in our patterns, so you don't have to figure them out. However, some of the uneven miters can look a little funny. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">In this case, both the side vent and the hem edges are serged, and those edges are what must be matched--but they will be matched at a point 3/8" from the raw miter edges. That's because the miters are stitched using a 3/8" seam allowance. There's also a dot at the bottom corner of the miter, 3/8" in from the raw edges. Take a look--the photo is easier to understand.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVoLBzY2clUynqUqayk0oTnMu4GIWuvpZ5kcAq3x_A-naCbuto66xkjQoSwAMrjdJBKf77LJ2aZRuEdfh-RYj44M0xL5uiaSrTJ7FAGKJq38gPwTd4uZwrzcjmJuKX4MP_Np1UFdWBk0/s1600/folded+miter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVoLBzY2clUynqUqayk0oTnMu4GIWuvpZ5kcAq3x_A-naCbuto66xkjQoSwAMrjdJBKf77LJ2aZRuEdfh-RYj44M0xL5uiaSrTJ7FAGKJq38gPwTd4uZwrzcjmJuKX4MP_Np1UFdWBk0/s640/folded+miter.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"> I also wanted to show you how I measured, then stabpinned the hem in place before pressing it. It assures a straight, accurate hem. It's also helpful to have <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/The-Best-Glasshead-Dressmaker-Pins-x37619568.htm" target="_blank">glass-head pins</a> that won't melt from the iron's heat.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSRU567r01E8Cl0gf1iByHPanNvqlcB1RvMupiTo7dOUh4ssgo-LYSWkKk0l1QxiHiriJCj0kU3Runjmkc_ImO0r2m-hUW1QiWZ3eM-Tkidgqw1Ay-sTBDH1V26CJD5yFGkSXHB72ys0/s1600/stabpinning+hem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSRU567r01E8Cl0gf1iByHPanNvqlcB1RvMupiTo7dOUh4ssgo-LYSWkKk0l1QxiHiriJCj0kU3Runjmkc_ImO0r2m-hUW1QiWZ3eM-Tkidgqw1Ay-sTBDH1V26CJD5yFGkSXHB72ys0/s640/stabpinning+hem.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Of course, that original shirt can slide over the new shell, giving me a 4th outfit from the 4 garments I've made so far. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBFJ3In3O7U5nxuPrwvQhbU6yks12U3bsvHF5GhkyS1Xuf76b70qAHCEGphjfkoR7hW5hyphenhyphenSlzloG7OJen-PDw52Moor8VVwOT_UlWtL-Z7MZksXYwk4Q-SZb_o3BH7UGc-Qaohyphenhyphenvn9RA/s1600/TBP+shirt+summer+wardrobe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBFJ3In3O7U5nxuPrwvQhbU6yks12U3bsvHF5GhkyS1Xuf76b70qAHCEGphjfkoR7hW5hyphenhyphenSlzloG7OJen-PDw52Moor8VVwOT_UlWtL-Z7MZksXYwk4Q-SZb_o3BH7UGc-Qaohyphenhyphenvn9RA/s640/TBP+shirt+summer+wardrobe.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I hope I've given you a couple of ideas for your own summer wardrobe! </span></span>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-63158136069311982152020-06-22T13:01:00.003-04:002023-01-12T11:14:27.853-05:00<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">SIMPLIFY YOUR LIFE PATTERN HACK</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Hello everyone. Sometimes we just want to simplify our lives. We need to sew up a quick but attractive little top, and we're impatient to get it done. Plus, we want it to be versatile and attractive.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">What to do, what to do?</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Try a pattern hack. Seriously--simplify the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Simplify-Your-Life-x37619530.htm" target="_blank">Simplify Your Life</a> pattern, view B. Here's how.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Simplify-Your-Life-x37619530.htm" target="_blank"><img alt="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Simplify-Your-Life-x37619530.htm" border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi01jUkHm4NUu-OrE2ZLGRBJaCctMnmpiCmZvg7wFCPANr4FDMpmoJzt6KTzsnHsT9AUUtm-J_KD_wcsbRJVgUNUYyO6zxi7f1T3jS89v_io7ivzK_bw48fIJiJiNmSoaH5hfrc1N0Ju6M/s640/pt_060813_1_200x300.png" width="426" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"> I'm talking about the shell on the left of the pattern envelope. As you can see, it has a great detail on the left shoulder, where it incorporates facings, buttonholes, and buttons. When you have time, it's a great look. But if you're in a hurry, make the top without that detail. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">(Do measure the neckline and your head. Mine goes over my head just fine as a closed neckline, but it's good to be sure ahead of time! If needed, sew the neckline facings to the garment with a 3/4" seam allowance rather than the standard 5/8" seam allowance. That makes the neckline just a bit bigger.)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">So I just make up my top with the left shoulder looking the same as the right shoulder--with no buttoned opening. Here's how I modify the pattern--<b>so simple</b>. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">First, use the patterns for the right sleeve only.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTCjE2P8293io1NOezA4nl1sxSgNuzPIHOjW1pmQRRQ22d76Ag3EqFA3CcSEw3PbW5w0QTKxYpfWwApdCWXNAhpA2Uvln5pVrUymON7tMi70J4o3m4llSlkYQeQXZIqMKTk2sujF60w8/s1600/Simplify+hack+1+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="854" data-original-width="1600" height="340" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguTCjE2P8293io1NOezA4nl1sxSgNuzPIHOjW1pmQRRQ22d76Ag3EqFA3CcSEw3PbW5w0QTKxYpfWwApdCWXNAhpA2Uvln5pVrUymON7tMi70J4o3m4llSlkYQeQXZIqMKTk2sujF60w8/s640/Simplify+hack+1+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">You'll use these pieces for the left sleeve as well, so pay attention to cutting them properly for both sides.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Then modify the neck facing patterns. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNo-zSIorh7p1vR_6zut323dTzl0jjrppGC9G5zckyDAxMhbIkvV7kcDJ6gJMkiMFy1xNziCMQJx-Rta8by7yLp_jSwRhJhxQJ__H37jivhl7sIlJGGaCO1G_IMDKwMqJez6var3zaiCM/s1600/Simplify+hack+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNo-zSIorh7p1vR_6zut323dTzl0jjrppGC9G5zckyDAxMhbIkvV7kcDJ6gJMkiMFy1xNziCMQJx-Rta8by7yLp_jSwRhJhxQJ__H37jivhl7sIlJGGaCO1G_IMDKwMqJez6var3zaiCM/s640/Simplify+hack+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Use only the portion of the facing that is <b>not</b> covered by the ruler. I'd trace off the portion not under the ruler that extends from the shoulder seam to center back. Then you'll cut that traced piece with the center back on the fold of the fabric.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Do the same with the front facing. Trace a new pattern piece that extends from the shoulder seam to center front and cut the new traced pattern piece on the fold of the fabric to give you a whole front facing.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Of course, I used some of the exquisite, lightweight fusible <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Interfacings.htm" target="_blank">interfacings</a> that we stock at Cutting Line Designs. In the instructions for each pattern, we tell you how to preshrink your interfacings and how to fuse them. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdvjFFd7PdSaJ_FI9J3117YSgI4w_u8Zyyw6r40WQ3NezZewKm82vIjgWmm-Esrju8-tADtS8Z85A1nETQTVNqGJ-WWyc_NSyMpacETei3lwsB1Qd1_kpCzoo7ceLbSoOGuWduS8n0UA/s1600/Simplify+hack+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdvjFFd7PdSaJ_FI9J3117YSgI4w_u8Zyyw6r40WQ3NezZewKm82vIjgWmm-Esrju8-tADtS8Z85A1nETQTVNqGJ-WWyc_NSyMpacETei3lwsB1Qd1_kpCzoo7ceLbSoOGuWduS8n0UA/s640/Simplify+hack+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Then you'll need the body of the garment. As you can see, we've cleverly extended the center front line all the way from the neck to the hem. How convenient is that? Let's look. You can see that I've marked the left and right of the front pattern piece, and we only need the right portion.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEh5ZP6_I7wiZ_bSk1vw_O3oA5H6zFBrouD_R-l_25VIhfrPLo0pAlPEbHYqCtQ8s-XLMlUngGF44KT4ESsXkuRW75N9Q1GIEfkeOa3hh9mb_L6TBTOKKKriEQZiHqeh8en3DwmOQYYNo/s1600/Simplify+hack+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEh5ZP6_I7wiZ_bSk1vw_O3oA5H6zFBrouD_R-l_25VIhfrPLo0pAlPEbHYqCtQ8s-XLMlUngGF44KT4ESsXkuRW75N9Q1GIEfkeOa3hh9mb_L6TBTOKKKriEQZiHqeh8en3DwmOQYYNo/s640/Simplify+hack+4.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">We don't really have to trace this piece, but you can if you want to. To save time, you can just fold the front piece along the center front line. Of course, you'll need to cut this piece with the center front line on the fold of the fabric.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFszvYtv9AYx9k951wqA_GQvZJIXEl6nXgYy2L2Rz0mSpd-ym-WH9Qnz7A-olw43l725iH9tb9y6zPMdDJm__ShYQnRhWjrmp0AwSdGYN8vD1hcnm8R3fluzes99PVXMX0Zo4bwNh_2Q/s1600/Simplify+hack+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKFszvYtv9AYx9k951wqA_GQvZJIXEl6nXgYy2L2Rz0mSpd-ym-WH9Qnz7A-olw43l725iH9tb9y6zPMdDJm__ShYQnRhWjrmp0AwSdGYN8vD1hcnm8R3fluzes99PVXMX0Zo4bwNh_2Q/s640/Simplify+hack+5.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">You'll need to follow the same procedure with the back, but with one little change. First, the simple part.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPOOJvGFgLhRRG73vaMoDamTeWl2OEMvwGYNbyE5jtXzVk24vQnAfYS1R9VCRD4t4Qmj3igN_M2FrSfk3K5nudg8hNotp_mKohk_FMJalJ2hlZeuqYfWMiJ4f5uLEI9GCrEMnB0s6vrHs/s1600/Simplify+hack+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPOOJvGFgLhRRG73vaMoDamTeWl2OEMvwGYNbyE5jtXzVk24vQnAfYS1R9VCRD4t4Qmj3igN_M2FrSfk3K5nudg8hNotp_mKohk_FMJalJ2hlZeuqYfWMiJ4f5uLEI9GCrEMnB0s6vrHs/s640/Simplify+hack+6.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Look carefully. The left shoulder is higher than the right shoulder. Let's fold.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEionxO1_peIUXjA1OjAWj2pYdfSaWBahlEvSGwZrJEDfXe0IgPym0qzPdL8BakGnmOhyF8wxOV-acpUQ2rmr4E232YTuTr4LccRwQ6DYCe4RnW-0MYLirS3RlwI1182t3vuS5Oc0Vuurqs/s1600/Simplify+hack+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEionxO1_peIUXjA1OjAWj2pYdfSaWBahlEvSGwZrJEDfXe0IgPym0qzPdL8BakGnmOhyF8wxOV-acpUQ2rmr4E232YTuTr4LccRwQ6DYCe4RnW-0MYLirS3RlwI1182t3vuS5Oc0Vuurqs/s640/Simplify+hack+7.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">That pesky left shoulder is sticking up. Here's a closer view.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUtBfLHz373zXrSPtUXmCabwdVBnjrvd5Ipy8FTTU7Ef9mjFCcApVGvgiOdhX6y2XVx3l8zictjW4Impr6-2hWVXspux5o4v8lhACba18XvDBj43y8y_YEBptN5ANM8FASFGH_ZNct0Mg/s1600/Simplify+hack+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUtBfLHz373zXrSPtUXmCabwdVBnjrvd5Ipy8FTTU7Ef9mjFCcApVGvgiOdhX6y2XVx3l8zictjW4Impr6-2hWVXspux5o4v8lhACba18XvDBj43y8y_YEBptN5ANM8FASFGH_ZNct0Mg/s640/Simplify+hack+8.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Just fold it down out of the way.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht3lfQO3gZ4zc1SoM_1FDYZlDj50btdqNGKw7U7gCB4gcc9A0IvC4dX3oF5_GI-qgnNoJqBgJoflUE-j-5MOfVyl4wHb7zR3HxtQ8NsZ9l7BA3QjSLZWb_SjnUwadP1TTmRwFU5JsbyHw/s1600/Simplify+hack+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht3lfQO3gZ4zc1SoM_1FDYZlDj50btdqNGKw7U7gCB4gcc9A0IvC4dX3oF5_GI-qgnNoJqBgJoflUE-j-5MOfVyl4wHb7zR3HxtQ8NsZ9l7BA3QjSLZWb_SjnUwadP1TTmRwFU5JsbyHw/s640/Simplify+hack+9.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">So that's it. I love this top because it can be a basic to go under jackets, and it can be half of a slightly elegant outfit if it is the same color as pants or a skirt. Then in a print it's a standout and can go with a variety of jackets, skirts, pants, or shirts layered over it. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Here's one I made using this pattern hack. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBL3Dpv0J0KDVZuD_lMEDZzA-JCtXQkmwW-G0tJC9VBgN9dyQig7Gr04qSgN3P4UfZ7enLs2YW-g88mdlJ2xDHGiyYXc4mpDmm-XwsdH175MU0lb7R0v-wYpsncnST7Dd86tyoLweUjwY/s1600/Simplify+view+B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBL3Dpv0J0KDVZuD_lMEDZzA-JCtXQkmwW-G0tJC9VBgN9dyQig7Gr04qSgN3P4UfZ7enLs2YW-g88mdlJ2xDHGiyYXc4mpDmm-XwsdH175MU0lb7R0v-wYpsncnST7Dd86tyoLweUjwY/s640/Simplify+view+B.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I hope you find this easy change useful. Maybe I'll see some of these on the Cutting Line Designs <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/CuttingLineDesignsForum/" target="_blank">Facebook Forum</a>! </span></span>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-75853421539272239002020-06-12T15:58:00.000-04:002020-06-12T15:58:30.498-04:00<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">SUMMER WARDROBE 2020</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">At last I have made progress on my summer wardrobe. I thought I might not get done before the holiday season--and I don't mean 4th of July.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I've completed 2 more pieces, so take a look:</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCE0-7NI__W-18NSTfHoMO72jc9af4zPlB3ez4FHlMeOGnhWlXdwE8lGmEYWY0T2vkiFsKC3xMD5sncGM1ynedJyuqzf8cDCiloezl_24hdWJ-YcwiQ65q2YN5u2U06OzN0HMVKwbu8FE/s1600/20200612_100601+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1031" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCE0-7NI__W-18NSTfHoMO72jc9af4zPlB3ez4FHlMeOGnhWlXdwE8lGmEYWY0T2vkiFsKC3xMD5sncGM1ynedJyuqzf8cDCiloezl_24hdWJ-YcwiQ65q2YN5u2U06OzN0HMVKwbu8FE/s640/20200612_100601+%25282%2529.jpg" width="412" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Sometimes I have to play around in my fabric stash. That quiet time can give me a push forward into my next project. I had purchased a pretty striped linen years ago that was white with plum and green stripes in it. I pulled it out and browsed the other shelves. Sure enough, there was a plum that worked, then a green, then this floral print that had both the plum and green in it----------and I was off and running. Found a couple more things as well, and you'll see those soon.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Anyway, the whole idea was to create several garments in fabrics that are cool in Florida's heat and humidity, so these cottons and linens worked. Also, I chose designs that were a bit loose and easy to wear.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">This top is made from View A of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Simplify-Your-Life-x37619530.htm" target="_blank">Simplify Your Life</a>.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHsoI-_oIqQEy7X3vPBJ3e5iraQyhym83S43IVXKbm_sVAO-Gf1VfqspdSpPn3L5v23r1928PzK91KBniMvGk8AEty_hREwnnVyg0u8w27ZmDo0F9Z8ezfEz90PWv-zeMWfElm6TKjyY/s1600/pt_060813_1_200x300.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHsoI-_oIqQEy7X3vPBJ3e5iraQyhym83S43IVXKbm_sVAO-Gf1VfqspdSpPn3L5v23r1928PzK91KBniMvGk8AEty_hREwnnVyg0u8w27ZmDo0F9Z8ezfEz90PWv-zeMWfElm6TKjyY/s640/pt_060813_1_200x300.png" width="426" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I left off the pocket because it would not have showed on this lively print, and I eliminated the sleeve bands to make it easier to pull on a jacket over the top. So here's a closeup of my version:</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaSIFK9357q0ENFSKB3V9w8prWAlVb4WSJA7Ef8RZT7mpazUFd6UVvFzKPl4V2eH1cluv0Wv_s9BthpB133x2eRzz966IXDHLNdEmAoaPTi0Vrp5cvasyGGZ60xU4dTQkGI6YWIn03noY/s1600/20200612_100810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaSIFK9357q0ENFSKB3V9w8prWAlVb4WSJA7Ef8RZT7mpazUFd6UVvFzKPl4V2eH1cluv0Wv_s9BthpB133x2eRzz966IXDHLNdEmAoaPTi0Vrp5cvasyGGZ60xU4dTQkGI6YWIn03noY/s640/20200612_100810.jpg" width="480" /> </a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"> Pretty neckline and a pleat at center front.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">The pants are soft linen, made from the tapered version of the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/One-Seam-Pants-x37619526.htm" target="_blank">One-Seam Pants</a>.</span></span><br />
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<img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJo2cLHDX8tAddzERkVwv4vNwn9E1clr24GSNycNIizi8RsXsPDwcTMNIQAmuDkhjG9APjQF9C_NcZCBoBUjW-6SD9hH4qjhzlcjmbtWoKWKAaz9H-wRO367a3092qf78j_iIkubS5EtI/s640/pt_031371_1_200x300.png" width="426" /></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"> My pants are soft with tapered legs. But I decided to pull my pants in at the ankle with a detail I found while snoop-shopping. I simply pleated each pant leg at center front and sewed a button on to hold the pleat. Looks great when worn.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AsNW5J5tZcI7jSUoe4okooQA6gO_wWzNLepczhP1ZfeeDSU2aVBYLqzMWWNR9CEOFflg9ToB19xNfmLiXyjMeDst0vTUqA1jL0UzAoqn9oMY1ECVSza5uz2ugqDCZbWa3F0XEW4z17Y/s1600/20200612_100739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AsNW5J5tZcI7jSUoe4okooQA6gO_wWzNLepczhP1ZfeeDSU2aVBYLqzMWWNR9CEOFflg9ToB19xNfmLiXyjMeDst0vTUqA1jL0UzAoqn9oMY1ECVSza5uz2ugqDCZbWa3F0XEW4z17Y/s640/20200612_100739.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">The idea of a wardrobe is to have a group of garments that can be mixed. To be more specific, I like to aim for 3 tops that can go with each bottom. And of course, the tops for one bottom should go with the other bottoms. It's multiplication. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">So my start is the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Simplify-Your-Life-x37619530.htm" target="_blank">Simplify Your Life</a> above, the plum <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/One-Seam-Pants-x37619526.htm" target="_blank">One-Seam Pants</a>, and the modified shirt from <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/The-Blouse-Perfected-x37619518.htm" target="_blank">The Blouse Perfected</a> that you saw in an earlier post. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jh6RjC3GYMUDbT5fY2-9-LQRJt8E3WfWLLOfcDV7lkgDA0B_OsBZHkapJCbvo5_-kjhPuUlbDXtmx_nh7BZ91F9-kZfnDLjSXBnE4m0eeIitG3MjO0F2bCeanootuAdhLqpJ032HStA/s1600/20200612_101220+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1044" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_jh6RjC3GYMUDbT5fY2-9-LQRJt8E3WfWLLOfcDV7lkgDA0B_OsBZHkapJCbvo5_-kjhPuUlbDXtmx_nh7BZ91F9-kZfnDLjSXBnE4m0eeIitG3MjO0F2bCeanootuAdhLqpJ032HStA/s640/20200612_101220+%25282%2529.jpg" width="416" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKB5yJQFv7kAwwA2bGtIJSPELf8d1sw70bkl5BAxkZIt610u8ELOV1OjwZlXQ4qFS-y4Xc7Ml_MmBY6CHS-odV8PpoFhI29JRKUMRpMWRbbg7uQbtt9PcPuBjXylL0UUU6uzf6oya6_w/s1600/pt_011226_1_200x300.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKB5yJQFv7kAwwA2bGtIJSPELf8d1sw70bkl5BAxkZIt610u8ELOV1OjwZlXQ4qFS-y4Xc7Ml_MmBY6CHS-odV8PpoFhI29JRKUMRpMWRbbg7uQbtt9PcPuBjXylL0UUU6uzf6oya6_w/s640/pt_011226_1_200x300.png" width="426" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">So far, I have 2 tops and 1 pant = 2 outfits. I'll keep you posted on my progress. If I get with the program, I'll finish before there's snow on the ground.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></span>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-31701388884107665382020-05-15T16:44:00.001-04:002020-05-15T17:09:09.324-04:00<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">PINNING SLEEVES TO A GARMENT</span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Hello everyone,</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">There's been some discussion about pinning the sleeves into the body of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/The-Blouse-Perfected-x37619518.htm" target="_blank">The Blouse Perfected</a> on the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/CuttingLineDesignsForum/" target="_blank">Facebook Forum</a>. I'll point out a couple of things that are special about <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/The-Blouse-Perfected-x37619518.htm" target="_blank">The Blouse Perfected</a>, but the technique in general will work for all our <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/" target="_blank">Cutting Line Designs</a> garments. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> First, let's look at a photo that will illustrate why sewing sleeves into garments can sometimes be a challenge. In the photo, I've placed some white paper between the sleeve and the body just so you can see each one clearly.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>OPPOSING CURVES </b></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDX7fDylHrhoQRa8aF07Xzxwc2GkLAB8ti1Mo2HU9UZmIC3CO9dB5vhjGgh9-E0NvVclszHGhkK6mOwRTqXaAv2bDWPtP5mw3ZnqT7alaZdlimcYClqpl7lNUm99AYWcUo-oRU0vqlBK8/s1600/sleeve+cap+curve.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDX7fDylHrhoQRa8aF07Xzxwc2GkLAB8ti1Mo2HU9UZmIC3CO9dB5vhjGgh9-E0NvVclszHGhkK6mOwRTqXaAv2bDWPtP5mw3ZnqT7alaZdlimcYClqpl7lNUm99AYWcUo-oRU0vqlBK8/s640/sleeve+cap+curve.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">You can see that the armhole curve of the body (bottom layer) extends away from you. Imagine the stitching line 5/8" in from the cut armhole edge. You can tell that the cut edge will be shorter than the stitching line. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">In contrast, the shape of the sleeve cap is an opposite curve. The cut edge of the sleeve (top layer in the photo) is longer than the stitching line. On Cutting Line Designs patterns, the body and the sleeve are equal or nearly equal <u>at the stitching line. </u></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The key to controlling these 2 opposing curved edges is to insert your pins so that they pick up only a few threads right at the stitching line where the 2 layers are equal. This way, the cut edges can do whatever they need to do, without causing a problem right where you are going to stitch.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>MATCHING SLEEVE TO BODY</b> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/The-Blouse-Perfected-x37619518.htm" target="_blank">The Blouse Perfected</a> has dots at the underarm corners on both the body and the sleeve. These dots must match to get started correctly, so pin those first. Then insert a pin at the clip at the center of the sleeve cap. Let's look at a corner.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Notice that the sleeve and body layers cross right at the 5/8" stitching line when the dots are matched. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>PINNING SLEEVE TO BODY</b> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Once you've pinned the corners and the center clip, you need to pin the rest. In the photos below, I'll show you 2 ways to do that. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">First, I'll show you the technique that we illustrate in the patterns. Hold the 2 layers together with the sleeve on top. This forces the sleeve layer to travel just a bit further as you wrap the layers over your index finger. You can use your thumb to push a bit of extra sleeve fabric to be eased in before you insert your pin right at the stitching line. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZdTluBBtYZr5LrQYJkP3OO7Dh0MtongP_1t0uIhvq9p367FRz1ZeC7NRg5eW1ry3LZoB45_wCSBVevh_OtR3-juD_XYd5hhM0dQGks8tYWJbpb94X3qlpGrNEzBODk2zeSZLtuXM1SPU/s1600/20200515_162642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZdTluBBtYZr5LrQYJkP3OO7Dh0MtongP_1t0uIhvq9p367FRz1ZeC7NRg5eW1ry3LZoB45_wCSBVevh_OtR3-juD_XYd5hhM0dQGks8tYWJbpb94X3qlpGrNEzBODk2zeSZLtuXM1SPU/s640/20200515_162642.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span> <span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I often use a second technique. It involves once again having the sleeve layer on top. In this case, I wrap the layers over my thumbs. I can use my fingers to slide a bit of extra ease before pinning, again right at the stitching line.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgxOfV5wOAV8TKjz37k4bKYYs-uaujiZvgf8Iiit6FgAX0W41pNSndSkFR8dVg6eKxcUrkY1KoD1wbaC2xDIjn1Mrw41wh8fY_8FCmZSLL_nuP-Ungs3AK5hyphenhyphenUpuk53oIWoCjZmsdGdU/s1600/20200515_163337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDgxOfV5wOAV8TKjz37k4bKYYs-uaujiZvgf8Iiit6FgAX0W41pNSndSkFR8dVg6eKxcUrkY1KoD1wbaC2xDIjn1Mrw41wh8fY_8FCmZSLL_nuP-Ungs3AK5hyphenhyphenUpuk53oIWoCjZmsdGdU/s640/20200515_163337.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">You can use either technique, depending on which one is more comfortable for you. In reality, sometimes you have to go back and pin part of the seam over again to get the ease in just the right place.</span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS</span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> I also wanted to give you a couple of tips about buttonholes and buttons. I used to use a seam gauge, but I kept having to measure over and over as I looked at various spacings. Now I have a <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/SimFlex-Gauge-x37619566.htm" target="_blank">Simflex</a>, and I can get my spacing right the first time. Boom--done! Here's how that looks.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLtSWeKEb5HhJQ7jeJ7l2UMbhImMN2aGPhAQIe1_IcWxkS9VxQWQ88ns6peWVXa3IGQ7zIC5MTCpGHiX7TP7vlGxRbR09-i6qIg2oEcaxkxOzePQ0PSpVZUm6JjhbCY8ENA18BkLQtkIw/s1600/TBP+buttonholes+with+Simflex.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLtSWeKEb5HhJQ7jeJ7l2UMbhImMN2aGPhAQIe1_IcWxkS9VxQWQ88ns6peWVXa3IGQ7zIC5MTCpGHiX7TP7vlGxRbR09-i6qIg2oEcaxkxOzePQ0PSpVZUm6JjhbCY8ENA18BkLQtkIw/s640/TBP+buttonholes+with+Simflex.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Obviously, I forgot to take a photo until I had already marked and stitched the buttonholes. Then I realized that everyone needs to know about this time and frustration saver. Of course, we have these on the website.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Then it was time to mark for the button placements. I aligned the front plackets, with center fronts matching. I stabbed a pin through each buttonhole about 1/8" from the top of the buttonhole. That placement means that when the garment is buttoned, the buttonholes will rest right on the button shank and stay there all day.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I hope you find these tips useful. So much of what we do at <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/" target="_blank">Cutting Line Designs</a> is about accuracy, and I love the results I get from that emphasis. </span></span>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-69358186789002719302020-05-11T15:21:00.002-04:002020-05-11T15:21:29.118-04:00<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">MORE CONSTRUCTION INFO ABOUT THE BLOUSE PERFECTED</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Hi ladies,</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I'm continuing my posts about <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/The-Blouse-Perfected-x37619518.htm" target="_blank">The Blouse Perfected</a>. It's such a useful pattern that I thought it was worth the time and effort. It can be made as a casual shirt like the one I just finished in the linen stripe. I've also made it in denim as a casual shirt. However, it's a classic in silk, and I've done that as well. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I have to confess that I bought a shirt just about like it in a woven silk stripe, and I've made it in silk chiffon. That one was a challenge!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Anyway, a casual version like the one I made for my summer wardrobe is a great one to start with. You have a chance to practice the techniques and end up with something wearable, even if it's a bit less than perfect. Then you can go on to something more challenging. I'm really looking forward to making a white shirt from this pattern.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">COLLAR </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">So today I'll talk a bit about constructing the collar on this shirt. The first thing you'll need to do is interface it. (Do browse the exquisite <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Interfacings.htm" target="_blank">interfacings</a> on the website. All lightweight and fusible.)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I have a specific method for applying interfacing, and the instructions are in the patterns. But it could be helpful to see some photos of how it's done. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Here's what you need: a piece of parchment paper (from the grocery; it's what you bake cookies on.) A press cloth, preferably silk organza so you can see through it. And your iron, of course.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">So put the parchment paper on the ironing board with the fabric Collar piece wrong side up. My next step is to lay the interfacing on top, glue side down. (In the instructions, the order is a bit different--either way works fine.) Finally, lay the pattern piece on top. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">The idea is that you want the fabric collar shape to exactly match the shape of the pattern piece. It's easy to skew the shape and not realize it, so check it with the pattern piece. Otherwise, you can be fusing your collar into the wrong shape and it will never look right when you have finished your shirt. Here's what you want to watch out for:</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Can you tell that I've been using this piece of parchment paper for a while!!? Anyway, this collar might never be right. Let's look at one that's correct.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">OK. So now you remove the pattern tissue and put your press cloth on top. (The collar is long--you may have to do one half at a time.)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Put your iron straight down at the center of the collar, shoot a bit of steam, and count for several seconds. Then lift the iron to another section and repeat. Don't slide the iron across the collar unless you like wadded up interfacing glued to your collar!! Ask me how I know!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Follow the instructions to sew the short ends of the collar together, trim, and press. Progress to pinning the upper edge of the collar, paying attention to the clips. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Now for the thing I saw Louise do one day. I got a bruise from slapping my forehead over this one. I'll show you in pictures. Put the collar on your machine as normal, but about 1/2" from the folded end. Put the needle down into the fabric.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Lift the presser foot and turn the collar around. Shorten your stitch length to 2.0 and stitch to the edge. Here, I'm about to stitch to the folded edge.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">When you've reached the exact edge, turn the whole collar back around and stitch (at 2.5 stitch length) all the way to the other end. In this photo, I've turned and am ready to stitch all the way across the top. Stitch a mirror image at the other end (turning and stitching back for 1/2" at 2.0).</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">So one of the things that always bothers me is that little dent I get when I backstitch. The tension changes when backstitching and pulls the end of the seam too tight. It's especially troublesome at the corner of a collar because it makes the corner even tighter and harder to turn nicely. By always stitching forward as illustrated above, the problem is eliminated. Give it a try.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Again, follow the instructions for the sequence of steps. You'll grade the seam allowances. One thing you might not have thought about doing is pressing the seam allowances open. It's a crucial step. I explain it by saying that it teaches the fabric where to fold, so when the collar is right side out, it's so much easier to fold that upper edge precisely.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">Once all is pressed in accordance with the instructions, you'll need to edgestitch the collar. (Look back at previous blogs about the set-up.) The corners will be tricky, but we cover that in the instructions. Read the steps carefully. Here's what you'll do at the corner. Begin at the bottom of the collar, edgestitching one folded end. When you reach the corner, put the needle down and raise the presser foot. Grasp the loose end and bring it to the back of the presser foot, laying it underneath against that folded edge. Now the machine no longer thinks it's going uphill, and you can start stitching with no problem.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">This has been a lot of text for a few steps, but I wanted to give the reasoning behind what we've said in the instructions. I know that some sewers have skipped over these steps, thinking that they were overly fussy. However, they definitely give a better result. I would rather do something accurately once than do it quickly and have to unsew it and do it again (sometimes more than once!). </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">I should mention that this edgestitching is much easier and better looking if you have the correct needle. For nearly all fabrics, Louise and I use <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Sewing-Machine-7511-Needles-x37619565.htm" target="_blank">size 75/11 quilting needles</a> (they're on the website). We prefer them because they are so sharp. They penetrate the fabric in a straighter line than needles that are more rounded. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;">There have been some questions about sleeves on the Facebook Forum, so I'll give you some info about sleeves in the next Stitch to Style. See you then!</span></span>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-59963739567873130332020-05-07T17:00:00.001-04:002020-05-07T17:00:15.331-04:00<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">SUMMER WARDROBE BEGINNING</span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Hi everyone,</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">As I was playing around in my fabric shelves, I found a number of fabrics that go together nicely. All are summer fabrics. In this case, they are linen, but cottons could work for this summer wardrobe idea also. I'll show you my fabrics.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The idea began with the stripe. Then I found the green and the plum linens. Of course, white linen was an obvious coordinate, and a hunt turned up some left over from another project. Then I found the floral, which was left from a fashion show project. Finally, the last fabric, a fun cotton printed with a motif of paint samples. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">From these fabrics I plan a shirt, a jacket, 2 pairs of pants, and 3 tops. I hope to finish before winter sets in!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I've made the first shirt, a variation of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/The-Blouse-Perfected-x37619518.htm" target="_blank">The Blouse Perfected.</a></span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">FRONT AND BACK</span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Of course, I couldn't resist playing with the stripes. I decided to use the Left Front pattern piece for both the left and right fronts. (This works fine. No alterations to the left front--just cut it twice.) However, I cut one front on the lengthwise grain and the other on the crosswise grain. I wanted a casual look, and I thought that playing with the stripes achieved that. (Eliminates some stripe matching issues too!)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I cut the back with vertical stripes and the yoke with horizontal stripes. The only other change was on the sleeves. I shortened them to 3/4 sleeves and added a band at the hem.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Some photos might be helpful in understanding a few of the steps in constructing this shirt. In today's blog I'll show you how I made the front plackets, the yokes, and the burrito roll. Be sure you follow the instructions step by step--I'm not showing you every step here. </span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">FRONT PLACKETS</span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Some of you may have read my earlier blog about the front plackets on this shirt. I'll just post a couple of photos here as a reminder of how they are done. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Fold the placket at the first set of clips (neck and hem). Use a seam gauge to be sure you fold the remaining placket accurately from neck to hem and stab pin, then press. Use the same process for the second fold.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Place the interfacing as indicated on the pattern, fuse, and press the folds back in place. Edgestitch as shown in the instructions. (I edgestitched both vertical edges of the plackets.) By the way, we have really light fusible <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Interfacings.htm" target="_blank">interfacings</a> on the website.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Here are the fronts with the finished front plackets.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>OUTER AND INNER YOKES</b> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I'll also show some photos of attaching the yokes. First I pinned the Outer Yoke right side to right side to the top edge of the Back. Note that the heads of my pins are away from the edge. (You have to pin both yokes but I think it's easiest to pin one at a time.) It's also nice to have really sharp <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/The-Best-Glasshead-Dressmaker-Pins-x37619568.htm" target="_blank">pins</a> with glass heads that won't melt if you get them near the iron. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This photo shows that I have turned the pinned Back and Outer Yoke over and laid the Inner Yoke on top, ready to be pinned. I'll match the raw edges and the clips at center back. Because of the way I pinned, I can just slide the pin at center back out and then reinsert it to secure the Inner Yoke to the other layers. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Lbx8UE_sLea9WnsKsO0j0HlqFvmSQpaipLAnUynDb1rIuZj-A0o3Ez97YkBzbVtnC76PQSgZn0YSGA5jLAh0E75r33mXjpkgAGW5K-5XTVQ78oBwaxhztsi5FnIC9UnauHf89vTF7EE/s1600/TBP+yoke+pinning.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Lbx8UE_sLea9WnsKsO0j0HlqFvmSQpaipLAnUynDb1rIuZj-A0o3Ez97YkBzbVtnC76PQSgZn0YSGA5jLAh0E75r33mXjpkgAGW5K-5XTVQ78oBwaxhztsi5FnIC9UnauHf89vTF7EE/s640/TBP+yoke+pinning.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Once all was pinned, I stitched the seam. Next, I graded the seam allowances.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVzc2oLqfXQEiM-nQxqasmJbk88BShdoyLNOw0JHCnkCAOsB7GQjbjA_cRHISeE3as_Axhqq_L3wMgzQWd31gUo2PLoM52P2LdSaklKkVtmZMHhKVuWdnmNvpKqAQbi9sHjHKiq_XKnQ/s1600/TBP+yoke+seam+graded.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicVzc2oLqfXQEiM-nQxqasmJbk88BShdoyLNOw0JHCnkCAOsB7GQjbjA_cRHISeE3as_Axhqq_L3wMgzQWd31gUo2PLoM52P2LdSaklKkVtmZMHhKVuWdnmNvpKqAQbi9sHjHKiq_XKnQ/s640/TBP+yoke+seam+graded.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Both yokes get pressed up away from the Back. Then, working on the right side of the Back, I edgestitched the bottom edge of the Yokes.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13CDZx1i25H-SxZFJ9xcu8f6hqWsCwro6TiOi-nmafHtxYXDa6a_HrSN7-Ity8Hb_Y3RSjA-U_YThxjarwAqByfqbvZYQNd2krOASEGNxvoEJxFZpa0o2g_HVLxpfShTOzRNiRjKinVg/s1600/TBP+yoke+seam+edgestitched.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj13CDZx1i25H-SxZFJ9xcu8f6hqWsCwro6TiOi-nmafHtxYXDa6a_HrSN7-Ity8Hb_Y3RSjA-U_YThxjarwAqByfqbvZYQNd2krOASEGNxvoEJxFZpa0o2g_HVLxpfShTOzRNiRjKinVg/s640/TBP+yoke+seam+edgestitched.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>BURRITO ROLL </b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Next, I followed the instructions to stitch the Fronts to the Outer Yoke right side to right side. Once that was done, I moved to the next step. I'll show it to you because it looks a little funny, but it works. I laid the shirt on my worktable right side up. I rolled the back into a fairly tight tube on top of the <u>outer yoke</u>. Then I rolled the fronts in the same way, till they were also on top of the <u>outer yoke</u>. As you can see, the inner yoke is free. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFcu3xkZS8aUudlWdB_VCY0RKSXaWMB94vq-d0nijFrSBnZPzZsTklyKLKgTZe6siNYPCwMZeqW5Wc4X4G3x0V6L9gKj9Kvi7MHtlfdS9Fcnj1X7D5KSe3sC2OuMh8MHbPnNXz6AoRpE/s1600/TBP+yoke+rolled.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFcu3xkZS8aUudlWdB_VCY0RKSXaWMB94vq-d0nijFrSBnZPzZsTklyKLKgTZe6siNYPCwMZeqW5Wc4X4G3x0V6L9gKj9Kvi7MHtlfdS9Fcnj1X7D5KSe3sC2OuMh8MHbPnNXz6AoRpE/s640/TBP+yoke+rolled.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I then wrapped the inner yoke on top of the rolled back and fronts and pinned the shoulder layers together. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIC3baQ5qKGoZWPdlQh2SxUeMLlUG2M1VG3VIOKaIVo1JS0oDKT5qw3MjGi-H7uMXSEM0ycaStmGza1Pru7AHreqRH37l2s2V0Wg04WTzoaZPALjS2uUqWQ_YUJHiRley-6LOyPK6ZOhY/s1600/TBP+yoke+burrito.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIC3baQ5qKGoZWPdlQh2SxUeMLlUG2M1VG3VIOKaIVo1JS0oDKT5qw3MjGi-H7uMXSEM0ycaStmGza1Pru7AHreqRH37l2s2V0Wg04WTzoaZPALjS2uUqWQ_YUJHiRley-6LOyPK6ZOhY/s640/TBP+yoke+burrito.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Next, I turned the bundle over so I could see my previous shoulder seam stitching. I stitched again right on top of my previous stitching. Note how I pinned so I could pull each pin out as I stitched. The next photo shows how you can still reach your pins.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPHj9PzHBCeI5QDySYsWWX0JWBoF4tI76btGn19xq7wUF8UkBVyrLXeSdEPChaTKgagm1HjZ01Pqp6QHa7F33M9N2DxVKhIevWu_AXzCiAAMCrDNSLuzy0FxRsIYa4JHLcZHXATqlaCFE/s1600/TBP+yoke+shoulder+pinned.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPHj9PzHBCeI5QDySYsWWX0JWBoF4tI76btGn19xq7wUF8UkBVyrLXeSdEPChaTKgagm1HjZ01Pqp6QHa7F33M9N2DxVKhIevWu_AXzCiAAMCrDNSLuzy0FxRsIYa4JHLcZHXATqlaCFE/s640/TBP+yoke+shoulder+pinned.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Be sure you read the instructions here about grading the shoulder seams. (I'm not trying to show you every step.) Then comes the part that seems difficult. It's time to pull the Back and both Fronts out through one of the armhole ends of the Yokes. Here's how that looks in the middle of the process.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0g2THZ1JhnbD8yAJWVL6QjRvU7Vc9LDCyyxU8iANidJzSCqDsJQaaW7ym93HMbjYT791upYwEZSirQagRgbBUaqtVBV1QAvvXAr_cKT1lj00KU5bsnuJNBukuXsW3GAkkxiLqmjMm_c/s1600/TBP+burrito+pulling.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0g2THZ1JhnbD8yAJWVL6QjRvU7Vc9LDCyyxU8iANidJzSCqDsJQaaW7ym93HMbjYT791upYwEZSirQagRgbBUaqtVBV1QAvvXAr_cKT1lj00KU5bsnuJNBukuXsW3GAkkxiLqmjMm_c/s640/TBP+burrito+pulling.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">This takes a bit of patience but works like a charm. Just keep gently and gradually pulling the back and fronts out through the end of the yokes.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>NEXT TIME</b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">In my next blog I'll show you some tips about fusing interfacing, constructing the collar, pinning the sleeves, altering the pattern for the sleeve variation, marking buttonholes, and marking button placement.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Yikes, it's time for me to get moving on making the first pair of pants!</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-24045975145202257072020-04-12T19:30:00.000-04:002020-05-03T14:13:56.257-04:00<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">FUN WITH FABRIC SLEEVELESS TOP</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">You may be familiar with the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Fun-with-Fabric-x37619522.htm" target="_blank">Fun with Fabric</a> pattern. The envelope shows the top made with sleeves. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzThmuSAxdnaslCBimSQeeW5gLpklRFxskUHA-OMXqa7ZggF1M8cfsWs1s0x3DfxaI26n-bH3lv4cIGiPhACdTwKv2njGQ40NCeedDfo0UOMKvjrkFCDYvuhsLESeXm9TvQet7OgwTcGo/s1600/pt_051509_1_200x300.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzThmuSAxdnaslCBimSQeeW5gLpklRFxskUHA-OMXqa7ZggF1M8cfsWs1s0x3DfxaI26n-bH3lv4cIGiPhACdTwKv2njGQ40NCeedDfo0UOMKvjrkFCDYvuhsLESeXm9TvQet7OgwTcGo/s640/pt_051509_1_200x300.png" width="426" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Also note the band at the bottom. When making this in stripes, try changing the direction of the stripes for the band. And play around with the buttons.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjct1d_xr4SJn5OxvGNOa5dw_gfFHF9k-h5GNV7JmHESOeobd2TUuIyx5_0cixgW2weKm-JANJr3ZwxVfZ8hsbCcKfELmPd4BRP1rTpdQLYHIrko1ezduO5Ox7rqmNMFGHNNc0PyQF9rDc/s1600/FWF+with+sleeves.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjct1d_xr4SJn5OxvGNOa5dw_gfFHF9k-h5GNV7JmHESOeobd2TUuIyx5_0cixgW2weKm-JANJr3ZwxVfZ8hsbCcKfELmPd4BRP1rTpdQLYHIrko1ezduO5Ox7rqmNMFGHNNc0PyQF9rDc/s640/FWF+with+sleeves.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Anyway, you know Louise. She's always coming up with variations for the patterns. So she decided it would be cool to make this top sleeveless, like this:</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSdisFgKWN17L1lOoz0jsmMy2Rv8Cu3F886jglPjVewX-rMgdezyIaZtKa2lhZDxFxj1h8kZOdHdFLX2ypUegN8ufgeQqJvff2iX9aGf4wUmV6Inkh-QPdt2glmfjOwlQyDpWOt4KJgU/s1600/FWF+without+sleeves.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSdisFgKWN17L1lOoz0jsmMy2Rv8Cu3F886jglPjVewX-rMgdezyIaZtKa2lhZDxFxj1h8kZOdHdFLX2ypUegN8ufgeQqJvff2iX9aGf4wUmV6Inkh-QPdt2glmfjOwlQyDpWOt4KJgU/s640/FWF+without+sleeves.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> This version necessitates a few changes, so I'll go through them for you. First, here's a look at the pattern pieces for the upper part of the garment.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxgh7kxIHyI1mFgurAaaP6Yfq6m2MfBdfckf3ovG892gQO0uHIYr2Mvyv5ykwY9gj-FRduosjHi90PaWZc5CX1V2manKoAn5xirM4RkK2KYREMSsNADLUiIhq2RQvbleB8FwGektTIHgE/s1600/FWF+armhole+pattern.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxgh7kxIHyI1mFgurAaaP6Yfq6m2MfBdfckf3ovG892gQO0uHIYr2Mvyv5ykwY9gj-FRduosjHi90PaWZc5CX1V2manKoAn5xirM4RkK2KYREMSsNADLUiIhq2RQvbleB8FwGektTIHgE/s640/FWF+armhole+pattern.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Note that the side seams go up, then curve out. Also, notice the dot at the bottom of the armhole. Be sure to mark that dot.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">To make the sleeveless version, you need to turn the armhole seam allowance to the inside by 1" (rather than 5/8"). That's going to force a change to the shoulder seam. If you stitched the shoulder seam at 5/8" from the neck to the shoulder, you couldn't turn back the armhole seam allowance onto itself. So you need to turn the pattern pieces back on themselves at the shoulder by 1", measure down 5/8" and make a mark, as I did in the following photo. When you open out the fold, the stitching line will angle upwards toward the shoulder edge.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiQVoSEGLNHgdA9DLffWQQUgu8HhrdDkbcIRmotRXYJdGwDc3S9Xbg5yttDwSdtNULIxkrdTPC6GUWZ-zZqbBGEU2FbCzFgjXz3IOyn-6RGg6l3kj65FOwbIweCb4aU1IOSMolK48QdkE/s1600/FWF+armhole+turnback+at+shoulder.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiQVoSEGLNHgdA9DLffWQQUgu8HhrdDkbcIRmotRXYJdGwDc3S9Xbg5yttDwSdtNULIxkrdTPC6GUWZ-zZqbBGEU2FbCzFgjXz3IOyn-6RGg6l3kj65FOwbIweCb4aU1IOSMolK48QdkE/s640/FWF+armhole+turnback+at+shoulder.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Serge the shoulder seam edges, then stitch the shoulder seams from the neck toward the shoulder. At 1" from the armhole edge, follow the new stitching line you drew so the seam angles upward. Now the shoulder seam will fold back nicely on itself, as in the next photo. Serge the side seam/armhole edges. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMo8FKqn1fKRmHm_vurrD_fP4xXCg00EQCFdMI5tZyWyHBh3p1nwuFOrU0LSvBJvbjLDsKvHIqZweZhaE2SIVC-6wQV_xLKeqyTFNeXZYqzHga2Y1WjYkcYoU_5AzaIqp0pEwrK1mm_PE/s1600/FWF+fabric+shoulder+turnback.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMo8FKqn1fKRmHm_vurrD_fP4xXCg00EQCFdMI5tZyWyHBh3p1nwuFOrU0LSvBJvbjLDsKvHIqZweZhaE2SIVC-6wQV_xLKeqyTFNeXZYqzHga2Y1WjYkcYoU_5AzaIqp0pEwrK1mm_PE/s640/FWF+fabric+shoulder+turnback.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Then
fold the armhole edges to the inside of the garment by 1" between those
dots at the bottom of the armhole. It's easier to do this pressing
before you sew the side seams. <u>(At this time, you'll need to bind
the neckline. That must be done before you sew the side seams, but you
will follow the instructions in the pattern for that step. I'm not
addressing the neckline in this post.)</u></span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Once the whole armhole edges are pressed (and the neckline binding is applied), it's time to sew the side seams. Stitch them using a 5/8" seam allowance, but don't curve over to the dots at the underarm. Instead, stitch straight up <u>even with the dots--you'll be 3/8" away from them.</u></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfadDbrrd6Tw0w7FPSY7l2Taw-qmzOhDKov19Z2NSOtXBZ0tj42IZuoJjTzzThNeP4mA_GToqYffUNmb97dWfJQk0A-jiCJ1I3emxFY9-kv5i2zc_H9ENlPSxQKsqMcHYSPLjt1M0oAgM/s1600/FWF+seam+at+armhole+bottom.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfadDbrrd6Tw0w7FPSY7l2Taw-qmzOhDKov19Z2NSOtXBZ0tj42IZuoJjTzzThNeP4mA_GToqYffUNmb97dWfJQk0A-jiCJ1I3emxFY9-kv5i2zc_H9ENlPSxQKsqMcHYSPLjt1M0oAgM/s640/FWF+seam+at+armhole+bottom.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Press the side seams open. That pressing should coincide with the 1" folds you've already pressed around the armhole. Ta-da! </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsKTMSYKt2ELzd9pt5DSWff4Wq9jYdVy_l4nXHoT0B31rO9NeM6gIchDsxt6D8dWzNSdyNZ_FAUOClTVz6CgGTZDw9ysvXsZMhnVH1xVrwKpK2iGfy3E5XjrBQL1AJNSjdCtlzgO5t6KY/s1600/FWF+side+seam+and+armhole+pressed+open.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsKTMSYKt2ELzd9pt5DSWff4Wq9jYdVy_l4nXHoT0B31rO9NeM6gIchDsxt6D8dWzNSdyNZ_FAUOClTVz6CgGTZDw9ysvXsZMhnVH1xVrwKpK2iGfy3E5XjrBQL1AJNSjdCtlzgO5t6KY/s640/FWF+side+seam+and+armhole+pressed+open.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Lay strips of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> under the armhole edges, press lightly, and remove the paper backing. Fold the armhole edges in place and press to fuse.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Topstitch the armhole edges next to the serging. Begin on the side seam, 1/4" below the dot. Stitch at 90 degrees from the side seam to the serging, pivot, and stitch around the armhole next to the serging. Pivot and stitch at 90 degrees to the side seam, ending your stitching at the side seam. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaAznVJtxwmTDnS055h6EjjEfFL8C5MmPEKlFv2es5mVnnqEbL1pTToZoPfrsOWVKLbiSdVClq0G3ykhWs5LJq6jTDZyGoVd1PaxsLTRm79d02l0PjtVNpeWb5_-P_au3tgL2VhBXC46U/s1600/FWF+armhole+topstitched+inside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaAznVJtxwmTDnS055h6EjjEfFL8C5MmPEKlFv2es5mVnnqEbL1pTToZoPfrsOWVKLbiSdVClq0G3ykhWs5LJq6jTDZyGoVd1PaxsLTRm79d02l0PjtVNpeWb5_-P_au3tgL2VhBXC46U/s640/FWF+armhole+topstitched+inside.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Here's how it looks from the outside.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YBUZ7FAvFuYJyN9zztXPLQ5DdpDOmCmcsjFOCfLfAxZJA2nMdZPd5Qu8WV9E_qMS8aQPvejGGeCdmZlwTMlD2D2BLUXdZrewIRHzWTLwcb5zuOGfCi1d30cAX2qJNCzVf8Y1az9Uq2A/s1600/FWF+armhole+stitched+outside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8YBUZ7FAvFuYJyN9zztXPLQ5DdpDOmCmcsjFOCfLfAxZJA2nMdZPd5Qu8WV9E_qMS8aQPvejGGeCdmZlwTMlD2D2BLUXdZrewIRHzWTLwcb5zuOGfCi1d30cAX2qJNCzVf8Y1az9Uq2A/s640/FWF+armhole+stitched+outside.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">You might like this as a breezy summer option for the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Patterns/p/Fun-with-Fabric-x37619522.htm" target="_blank">Fun With Fabric</a> top.</span></span><br />
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Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-49127782549251992942020-04-12T12:31:00.002-04:002020-05-03T14:06:56.173-04:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">THE BLOUSE PERFECTED PLACKETS</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">There was a question about the plackets on The Blouse Perfected posted on the Facebook Forum, so I thought I would make some samples, take some photos, and explain them here. Shirts like these can be purchased, but they can be pricey, so it's nice to be able to make your own. They're a classic style; make them in cotton for casual wear or in silk for dress-up. They are an enduring style in white.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">So let's begin. First, let's see one of the samples I used for the DVD I filmed for Threads Magazine that shows the finished plackets. I placed a button on the side that will have buttonholes on it when the shirt is finished (the right front).</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP3zcdrKT37MqSLJoxM64RU07r8g8_hP4MYPDu8ckICXTdeuSmbU68QzQpClkYMzwvsjlUkCRuXrifnJm47nSsBXcAyF7Kx4l9P7fZRevAhfRaEbglmKeQ0NEcarlGFQ7Nr-GNdII9d64/s1600/TBP+plackets.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP3zcdrKT37MqSLJoxM64RU07r8g8_hP4MYPDu8ckICXTdeuSmbU68QzQpClkYMzwvsjlUkCRuXrifnJm47nSsBXcAyF7Kx4l9P7fZRevAhfRaEbglmKeQ0NEcarlGFQ7Nr-GNdII9d64/s640/TBP+plackets.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">And the same plackets viewed from the inside of the shirt. The button is again on the right front where the buttonholes would occur.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJGT8J7Olc53F0Ml6begkO4bDfaCewH3przgGatTitLlghvQZWuUmqCiF3_X4qv3g26noF2Mrbv23qmlm2Vfzs5QSbi_sSYTSFghgsy5-NWyNklEAsi-U2xccr2u9-fWt_FVIl2pw4qS8/s1600/TBP+plackets+inside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJGT8J7Olc53F0Ml6begkO4bDfaCewH3przgGatTitLlghvQZWuUmqCiF3_X4qv3g26noF2Mrbv23qmlm2Vfzs5QSbi_sSYTSFghgsy5-NWyNklEAsi-U2xccr2u9-fWt_FVIl2pw4qS8/s640/TBP+plackets+inside.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">In the photo above, look at the left front. We're seeing the inside of the shirt, so it's on the left in the photo. Note that the stitching to finish the placket would be done from the inside, using the edgestitching technique I've talked about in other blogs.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">So now let's see how the folds are made on the left front. The instructions say to fold at the first clips (nearest center front) at the neck and hem. Stab pin in place. Then use a seam gauge to measure the fold in between, stabpinning all along the fold. Like this:</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk_jQP9lcERkN2WNXfNGwbVSuSxjHkKt5lAo3QQPcwyQgTg-9V7ixiCRL66jFkI9lLoG15hsn9A8XkFeDDGlEtza0gS6tApw3rDczGW1zcqiz7u_vVF79R_p6qi0yxYuRc366OlV8HHjI/s1600/TBP+plackets+seam+gauge+stab+pin.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk_jQP9lcERkN2WNXfNGwbVSuSxjHkKt5lAo3QQPcwyQgTg-9V7ixiCRL66jFkI9lLoG15hsn9A8XkFeDDGlEtza0gS6tApw3rDczGW1zcqiz7u_vVF79R_p6qi0yxYuRc366OlV8HHjI/s640/TBP+plackets+seam+gauge+stab+pin.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Make the second fold in the same way, using the second clips as a guide. Here's a photo showing the <u>inside</u> of the shirt, showing the folds. I laid the pattern over so you can see how the folds align with the foldlines on the pattern. The interfacing is also in place. Of course, these folds will be turned to the inside. I only showed it with the wrong side up because it's easy to see the folds this way.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT4bztO4SOty_01pAxUiFh8EdZuFOeQXikQ6mIwmd37pxIyADJAUPqwBydqs3xY2YF8UmSIMt_xxo-NtTjZli0fZgg2-pX2SuwNcXfLnNBiAf3rK-_6EwsgvMkirj_J0bDaEHGhE46WlY/s1600/TBP+left+frong+folds+and+interface.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT4bztO4SOty_01pAxUiFh8EdZuFOeQXikQ6mIwmd37pxIyADJAUPqwBydqs3xY2YF8UmSIMt_xxo-NtTjZli0fZgg2-pX2SuwNcXfLnNBiAf3rK-_6EwsgvMkirj_J0bDaEHGhE46WlY/s640/TBP+left+frong+folds+and+interface.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Here's the same thing from the right side with the folds in their final position. I left some interfacing sticking out so you could see where it goes.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizAXDtJ7EL5lyQypde6j0aQKUkNFIvs5JxYOG4OWbiQaK_SMZap-Xf68_7WAg8Jh6-O6KtM4IHNydlK8fbgG_dkBHq9yG6UglwV5zbeXsNdRm2oz8pPwgd9CpJ_YE3UyAE5CQgUXO8mE0/s1600/TBP+left+front+outside+folded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizAXDtJ7EL5lyQypde6j0aQKUkNFIvs5JxYOG4OWbiQaK_SMZap-Xf68_7WAg8Jh6-O6KtM4IHNydlK8fbgG_dkBHq9yG6UglwV5zbeXsNdRm2oz8pPwgd9CpJ_YE3UyAE5CQgUXO8mE0/s640/TBP+left+front+outside+folded.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">And this photo shows where the edgestitching would occur when finished.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsDceP0J-2pBl-JKY6M1-o-DHHF578vgQnPdvrDilVC9XtPrWtQmKWaBqGdO6Z4AR1ELYZISTC5Z58ic4ZA09G1rsPnBVTuahTL7XJ2TuGKIfaDtP3NRoQq0K4t8PUC_f4luMbotezGbQ/s1600/TBP+left+front+stitched+marked.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsDceP0J-2pBl-JKY6M1-o-DHHF578vgQnPdvrDilVC9XtPrWtQmKWaBqGdO6Z4AR1ELYZISTC5Z58ic4ZA09G1rsPnBVTuahTL7XJ2TuGKIfaDtP3NRoQq0K4t8PUC_f4luMbotezGbQ/s640/TBP+left+front+stitched+marked.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Let's look at the right front placket. It's a bit different. Here are the first 2 folds and the interfacing. Again, fold the first fold at the neck and hem clips, use a seam gauge in between neck and hem to get an even fold, stab pin, and press. Same for the second fold. Note the interfacing placement. (Note: In order to show the pattern on top of the folded fabric, I had to show the inside of the garment. The hem edge of the fabric piece is at the top of the photo and the neck is toward the bottom of the photo.)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8GfpWYP84NoqrD_JgJwdjQ0wkDpgrxSPmzREPhkpkqQ4Y36oup7UKhvvFVTJ_0Ws7b5UPM8Sc3iAeVo5X5oZOZkVINbSulCiVSuY5kY1Kv4If11t3xINqf3omvmjf9vYdZmOKpZMqb9E/s1600/TBP+right+front+first+2+folds.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8GfpWYP84NoqrD_JgJwdjQ0wkDpgrxSPmzREPhkpkqQ4Y36oup7UKhvvFVTJ_0Ws7b5UPM8Sc3iAeVo5X5oZOZkVINbSulCiVSuY5kY1Kv4If11t3xINqf3omvmjf9vYdZmOKpZMqb9E/s640/TBP+right+front+first+2+folds.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's what it looks like without the pattern on top. The black marks are at the clips.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaNbql7hDym6wHX-ji4g8ZvNEPLUWovbduyzCBy_kopYw3ZrogWsFLRyDFa2JnxchyphenhyphenPsAbVNg6rdBuiBLtr1PReLfJiyUNv4b1EA_bSTbB85x0KimPLQKChuBvLZ2Dw3frtNjTZTkPJdM/s1600/TBP+right+front+inside+folded.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaNbql7hDym6wHX-ji4g8ZvNEPLUWovbduyzCBy_kopYw3ZrogWsFLRyDFa2JnxchyphenhyphenPsAbVNg6rdBuiBLtr1PReLfJiyUNv4b1EA_bSTbB85x0KimPLQKChuBvLZ2Dw3frtNjTZTkPJdM/s640/TBP+right+front+inside+folded.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Here's what the first 2 folds look like when pressed in place. Again, hem is toward the top.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd2n__SykWooOba32Hce_iQHzM5d10P_HZvs5Lf4NSCOI5QIU9tGActU2dOjZqSYZz4n3nY0VdWG8-ukr_AByNYPNXovAUipjhtfFKwqBO9SMJAotaItJEUZLoTZBE56qXCdz4vjxhfhg/s1600/TBP+right+front+first+2+folds+inside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd2n__SykWooOba32Hce_iQHzM5d10P_HZvs5Lf4NSCOI5QIU9tGActU2dOjZqSYZz4n3nY0VdWG8-ukr_AByNYPNXovAUipjhtfFKwqBO9SMJAotaItJEUZLoTZBE56qXCdz4vjxhfhg/s640/TBP+right+front+first+2+folds+inside.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> Now the third fold has been made in the same manner. Make this fold with the previous folded edge tucked up right against this third fold.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Once that third fold is pressed, turn the whole front over so you are looking at the right side (outside) of the garment. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">With right side up, stitch 1/4" from the folded edge. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFErij6obJwAtSb7gZRuJjr3AiODLeBeJWZd8es_YIbZxpmJHfofQHquBL6XxBn4iWrqCPLTkCL8OGG0OLtQ2SBsX2ppHIME6GuPBaCptbpPQ9T5FzN1xXn8acY9zyE0ktqPxlFisH7ss/s1600/TBP+right+front+1st+stitching.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFErij6obJwAtSb7gZRuJjr3AiODLeBeJWZd8es_YIbZxpmJHfofQHquBL6XxBn4iWrqCPLTkCL8OGG0OLtQ2SBsX2ppHIME6GuPBaCptbpPQ9T5FzN1xXn8acY9zyE0ktqPxlFisH7ss/s640/TBP+right+front+1st+stitching.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">When finished with this line of stitching, turn the right front over so you are again looking at the wrong side (inside) of the shirt. Press the body of the shirt away from the placket (to the right in the next photo). The photo shows it already pressed; placket is on the left, body of shirt extending to the right.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfIwQVqMzEzwFIAseQucn1T2Y1k_d0Z6KJ_d-qD44dRyY2g-nuoAvTEg1HXvVkatJ6Hf6An-qb1a_24yQct06-xXoiy-dHaWPSpTaAZ1FYP-LItWUW0QbSTH3fsB4wCftR8CWIa8_18E/s1600/TBP+right+front+press+away+from+placket.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfIwQVqMzEzwFIAseQucn1T2Y1k_d0Z6KJ_d-qD44dRyY2g-nuoAvTEg1HXvVkatJ6Hf6An-qb1a_24yQct06-xXoiy-dHaWPSpTaAZ1FYP-LItWUW0QbSTH3fsB4wCftR8CWIa8_18E/s640/TBP+right+front+press+away+from+placket.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Your previous stitching is on the left in the following photo. Your next step is to stitch 1/4" from the edge as in the following photo (the line of stitching on the right). The buttonholes will go in between the 2 lines of stitching.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> It might be helpful to cut a couple of large squares of fabric, make the clips as on the pattern, and make a sample before working on your actual shirt. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I hope this clears up confusion. As always, feel free to write to us if you have any questions about a technique on one of our patterns. </span></span>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406052875286016953.post-29148913705304460862020-04-09T18:07:00.004-04:002023-02-13T15:45:52.194-05:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">FUN POCKETS FOR MY EASY AGELESS COOL SHIRT</span></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I promised you a blog about the pockets I put on my Easy Ageless Cool shirt, so I'm back to explain those to you. I used the same basic technique for both pockets, and you can create endless variations of them.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Of course, they can be any size you want them to be. Draw a rectangle for the size pocket you want, including the 3/8" seam allowances on all 4 sides.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">The fun is choosing the fabrics. You'll want a large piece for the body of the pocket, a piece as wide as the pocket but about 3 inches (plus seam allowances) deep to act as the pocket facing, and a third piece about 2" deep as a trim piece. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>POCKET FACING</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b> </b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Place the pocket piece wrong side down on top of the facing piece, with the facing piece right side up, like this. I have them folded back just so you can see the right and wrong sides.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Pin the pocket and facing together across the top edge. Stitch them together across the top and grade the seam allowances, like this.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeUOUOaRlGb9fDOUZLirM08Cu0bVtBQjor_PzdyyVaOySPSUdD0nnxFga-SHYXH8UeLRzGI4MBDn3UFfw_5lXmW_dQNDQZD10g6OHVcI24uyXFOLaNWm_5kcIjxGlxDagoT-kzxK7qhn4/s1600/fabric+combo+pocket+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeUOUOaRlGb9fDOUZLirM08Cu0bVtBQjor_PzdyyVaOySPSUdD0nnxFga-SHYXH8UeLRzGI4MBDn3UFfw_5lXmW_dQNDQZD10g6OHVcI24uyXFOLaNWm_5kcIjxGlxDagoT-kzxK7qhn4/s640/fabric+combo+pocket+2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Press the seam allowances open. Using a <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Pressing-Template-x37619687.htm" target="_blank">Pressing Template</a>, press a 3/8" hem across the free edge of the facing.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh8Na9QQ7gNkM8zeHumnvqGSu5BmgMhDoqMk2Rma4KWs32viCA8nwVqA18U7tzteezMkDFuWvkxeHmxQTSKi8mIFY8F5VS73xmjcASxjS0gN1qiXyYT3l-vmlcCPBwNwhH49s_q4PW64U/s1600/fabric+combo+pocket+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh8Na9QQ7gNkM8zeHumnvqGSu5BmgMhDoqMk2Rma4KWs32viCA8nwVqA18U7tzteezMkDFuWvkxeHmxQTSKi8mIFY8F5VS73xmjcASxjS0gN1qiXyYT3l-vmlcCPBwNwhH49s_q4PW64U/s640/fabric+combo+pocket+3.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Wrap the facing around the seam allowances and turn it down so it lies on the right side of the pocket. This will prevent any of the pocket wrong side from peeking out at the top of the finished pocket.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPz9NvhqsA4dtLXN9lytoYewDliT3fKKUZCeqetBQZZVnJi8lJ0VT8BMf_Chpgb1ZQG985aqV518545rs9dDoO6p5A-Ki4bKPOeX6pVOmuLfdbSF6pApfyzZeiNIDzU3HCTCTZ36Na_B0/s1600/fabric+combo+pocket+4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPz9NvhqsA4dtLXN9lytoYewDliT3fKKUZCeqetBQZZVnJi8lJ0VT8BMf_Chpgb1ZQG985aqV518545rs9dDoO6p5A-Ki4bKPOeX6pVOmuLfdbSF6pApfyzZeiNIDzU3HCTCTZ36Na_B0/s640/fabric+combo+pocket+4.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>POCKET TRIM</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b> </b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Fold the trim piece in half, wrong sides together, and lay a strip of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> across it next to the raw edge. Press it lightly and remove the paper backing.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsobB-2kDEZIdwCrZG5E0Tnj7lkh7H9IkQteYkYjZ8Wt4x5QxY_smOJ15IUejUdTxUaTu39ayv3bDxCHVJW53UymC0uPlPTzqsLQsH5ZSoCjAh0duYjeNViv3eOJn1nnwl2VionTs8JE/s1600/fabric+combo+pocket+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsobB-2kDEZIdwCrZG5E0Tnj7lkh7H9IkQteYkYjZ8Wt4x5QxY_smOJ15IUejUdTxUaTu39ayv3bDxCHVJW53UymC0uPlPTzqsLQsH5ZSoCjAh0duYjeNViv3eOJn1nnwl2VionTs8JE/s640/fabric+combo+pocket+5.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6A6j4Ao46Ni_xdypl_7h0OMpM6kA2M36jGoAu_DHnstGIPu7i2aWXmuO4muDMfb5m-Im1TMR8OEp58q0gSPojUUDRhxq8ylTRGcDNEu9EZytPiTkL7i_A4IoovjgTK5ad5MzPSQK3Yo4/s1600/fabric+pocket+combo+6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6A6j4Ao46Ni_xdypl_7h0OMpM6kA2M36jGoAu_DHnstGIPu7i2aWXmuO4muDMfb5m-Im1TMR8OEp58q0gSPojUUDRhxq8ylTRGcDNEu9EZytPiTkL7i_A4IoovjgTK5ad5MzPSQK3Yo4/s640/fabric+pocket+combo+6.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Slide the trim piece under the pocket facing just enough to cover the <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a>. Press again to fuse. At this point, you could also slide a strip of Steam-a-Seam <u>under</u> the trim piece, right under those same raw edges. Press lightly again, remove the paper backing, and press to fuse.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">Now you can stitch across the bottom of the pocket facing, attaching both the facing and the trim piece to the pocket.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HA3jMasONDXrDghdibyvSC-FQ8XV4ckba_ex5ihY_K-8GuDLXBBb8zTyHIZboyUOQFQXf9HTQ_E-Je1Hoe-zmjD9L9YN_e8M0TB4Yjk76X3C2geyOqdGBvzYOZJ8QMyDg3JYJnUNe4Q/s1600/fabric+combo+pocket+7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HA3jMasONDXrDghdibyvSC-FQ8XV4ckba_ex5ihY_K-8GuDLXBBb8zTyHIZboyUOQFQXf9HTQ_E-Je1Hoe-zmjD9L9YN_e8M0TB4Yjk76X3C2geyOqdGBvzYOZJ8QMyDg3JYJnUNe4Q/s640/fabric+combo+pocket+7.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>ATTACHING THE POCKET</b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b> </b> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"><u>Staystitch</u> both sides and the bottom of the combined pocket/facing/trim at 3/8". Using a <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Pressing-Template-x37619687.htm" target="_blank">Pressing Template</a>, press a 3/8" fold on all sides of the pocket, favoring the staystitching a thread or two to the wrong side. Lay strips of <a href="https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/Notions/p/Steam-a-Seam-2-14-Lite-x37619567.htm" target="_blank">Steam-a-Seam</a> on all 3 folds, press lightly, and remove the paper backing. Position your pocket on your garment and press again to fuse. Be sure the seam allowances at the top corners are tucked down into the pocket slightly so they won't show when you're finished.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RbPUsNGD2bvC8kZOlY8umNd0rX0YB431qRb4t9-z8xT0TJtAOqlC_LumOANPFspXRTjhI6KqmwGG4sn6NQNGDzbhm5E66nBJZUn4JqLPdcrkrlEo27rbPsUYt1DG3KzKrfnTwajYGZI/s1600/fabric+combo+pocket+8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_RbPUsNGD2bvC8kZOlY8umNd0rX0YB431qRb4t9-z8xT0TJtAOqlC_LumOANPFspXRTjhI6KqmwGG4sn6NQNGDzbhm5E66nBJZUn4JqLPdcrkrlEo27rbPsUYt1DG3KzKrfnTwajYGZI/s640/fabric+combo+pocket+8.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">When everything is fused correctly, you can edgestitch your pretty pocket to the garment. Be sure to stitch across the top of the pocket for 3/8" to catch the seam allowance at the top corner. Count the number of stitches across at the top corner (usually about 4), then continue stitching around your pocket, using the appropriate presser foot. End by stitching across the other upper corner with the same number of stitches as you used on the first top corner. And ta-da, a terrific pocket!!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">I only stitched my sample pocket 3/4 of the way around so I could show you that photo of the 3/8" folded back. But the following photo will show you the thread tail where I started at a top corner. </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFi5NGTJsAIaQRRcCSRFwUM4rTcOcMs3xlh4ifYSwhKBKn1wmAtY6mh6iSOiu2WDKQwjmOtBdBqNhFmPFILHsL4FuIvzHHZ0oRd3WVLHEVr98iYrsfZhgiK7ERCAH9qw3Asb6j0hjaMzg/s1600/fabric+combo+pocket+9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFi5NGTJsAIaQRRcCSRFwUM4rTcOcMs3xlh4ifYSwhKBKn1wmAtY6mh6iSOiu2WDKQwjmOtBdBqNhFmPFILHsL4FuIvzHHZ0oRd3WVLHEVr98iYrsfZhgiK7ERCAH9qw3Asb6j0hjaMzg/s640/fabric+combo+pocket+9.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> One of the things I love to do is use strips of selvedge like this as my trim piece. I just cut them wide enough so that their raw edge will fit under the pocket facing. So save those selvedges! Many have the circles of all the dye colors used to print the fabric, and some have lettering or other decorative motifs that would look great on a trim piece.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;">So there you are, everyone. Have fun making distinctive pockets, and post them on the Facebook Forum for everyone to see. Sharing feeds creativity for all of us. </span></span><b><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></span></b>Sandra Millerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01148899177583932761noreply@blogger.com