I wanted to show you my Just a Pinch jacket that I made in tropical-weight wool. This is a magic fabric that doesn't wrinkle and is light and comfortable. But the thing I really want you to see is how I finished all the edges in the jacket. I'll get to that in a minute. Here's the pattern:
In the recent ad, I mentioned the interesting details, the flattering lines, and the versatility of this pattern, and you saw linen versions of the shirt and vest, pinched and not pinched. So you've seen the versatility of this design. Take a look at details in these photos.
I love the standing collar--so flattering. Note the narrow fronts at the hem to make you slimmer there. I wanted to wear this jacket with many other garments, so I didn't "pinch" it. Here, it's paired with a Light and Shadow top in black and white jacquard and black pants.
Here is a gentle version over a blush top from Simplify Your Life, accented with a soft scarf.
And over a View A from Timeless and Modern that I shortened a bit (not enough fabric). I like the nested collars; I just included the collar stand on the shirt.
So back to the edge finish I used--I added Hong Kong finishes to all the seam allowances and the hems in this jacket. I usually wear this jacket open, so when I move the insides can show. I just wanted everything to look pretty! Here's a look at the side seam where the front and back hems come together.
I'll give you a quick review of how to make Hong Kong finishes, so you can make a garment a bit more special for yourself.
Begin choosing either silk charmeuse (I know--pretty fancy) or Ambiance (bemberg rayon) lining. Ambiance is widely available in a rainbow of colors on the web if you can't find it at a store near you. Both these fabrics are made of natural fibers, making them easy to handle.
Cut bias lengths of your Hong Kong fabric that are at least 1-1/4" wide. If they're narrower, they will be too difficult to handle. You'll need to join the lengths here and there to have them be long enough--no problem.
Once you've cut and joined your strips, pin them to the edges of your garment pieces. (I'm obviously showing you on a sample.)
In a previous blog, I mentioned that I pin so that I am only catching the fabric where I intend to sew--1/4" from the edge in this case.
I moved my needle to achieve an exact 1/4" seam.
As you can see, the bias strip is sewn to the right side of the fabric. Once it's stitched on, press it away from the edge, like this:
Now gently but accurately wrap the bias strip around the edge and press. Do a section at a time to maintain control.
Almost done! Back at the sewing machine, stitch in the ditch from the right side of the garment fabric, right at the original seam. I used my edge joining foot with the blade right at the seam, making it easy to be accurate.
Last step. On the wrong side of the garment fabric, trim away the excess bias strip for a neat, elegant finish. Because the strip is bias, it won't ravel. Ta-da!
I hope you enjoy making Hong Kong finishes as much as I do. They add such a special touch, one that you might not be able to find in a garment you purchase.
