Hello all,
I hope that some of you have some fabric (like there's anyone out there who doesn't!) and that you have modified your Anything But Ordinary pattern for the Go-To Top as shown in my previous blog. Also, just a quick reminder that if you don't have the revised One-Seam Pants pattern, you might want to get it so you have the new sizing chart and design details.
Ok, so we are caught up. Today I'd like to show you a few details for sewing the Go-To Top and the darts in the One-Seams. Here's the outfit again. It's ideal for these days when we all have to be inside--comfy, casual, but a finished look.
As you are making the top, remember that if you are making the XS or SM, stitch the neck facing to the garment at 3/4" rather than at 5/8". You'll want a slightly bigger neckline to get this over your head. When you are ready to topstitch the facing near its edge, you can use a piece of painter's tape on your machine to give yourself a guide.
When you get to the side seams, you'll want to leave room for the side vents. We'll make them in the same way the vents are made on the My Swing Set pants. Here's how to measure the vent opening at the bottom of the side seams:
Press the seam allowances open, including at the opening. Clip into the seam allowances where the side seam stitching ends and 3/8" from the serged hem edge. (See the previous photo.) Then trim the seam allowances between the clips and lay strips of Steam-a-Seam on them.
Fold the hem up. It should be 2-3/8" wide. Measure with a seam gauge. Look carefully at the vents--you want to favor them slightly to the inside.
Press the remaining parts of the hem. Use Steam-a-Seam to fuse all of it in place. Stitch the hem from the wrong side right next to the serging. Then change your presser foot (I use my blind hem foot) so you can finish the vent. Leave long thread tails and edgestitch up one side of a vent.
At the top, pivot to take one stitch across the top of the vent, then finish edgestitching down the other side.
Pull your thread tails to the wrong side, tie off, and use a handstitching needle to hide the threads between the fabric layers.
I also wanted to give you a couple of tips about the pants. Of course, you'll be following the instructions. Sew the inner leg seams first, always pinning and sewing with the back leg on the bottom. Place one pin at the crotch point, then move to the hem and pin as you move up the leg. Be sure you are pinning the layers one to one. Pin up to 6-8" from the crotch point.
Near the top, you should have a bit of extra fabric on the front layer. Grasp this top portion of the seam and gently stretch so the layers are even; pin. Now you can stitch. Keep the back on the bottom.
Continue following the instructions. When you are ready to insert the elastic, stitch one end of it to a scrap of fabric.
Fold over the fabric and attach your bodkin.
Once you've completely sewn your pants, decide how many darts you want. Take a look at the pattern piece. Notice that I folded up the hem portion of the pattern piece because I have already stitched the hem of the pants and intend to sew my hem darts on the outside of the finished legs.
I stitched a dart at the center front and back of each leg as well as the outside of the leg opposite the inner leg seam.
Enjoy your new, easy-to-wear outfit! Both garments are quick and easy to sew, but each one has distinctive details. Make them out of a variety of fabrics to wear anywhere.
