There was a question about the plackets on The Blouse Perfected posted on the Facebook Forum, so I thought I would make some samples, take some photos, and explain them here. Shirts like these can be purchased, but they can be pricey, so it's nice to be able to make your own. They're a classic style; make them in cotton for casual wear or in silk for dress-up. They are an enduring style in white.
So let's begin. First, let's see one of the samples I used for the DVD I filmed for Threads Magazine that shows the finished plackets. I placed a button on the side that will have buttonholes on it when the shirt is finished (the right front).
And the same plackets viewed from the inside of the shirt. The button is again on the right front where the buttonholes would occur.
In the photo above, look at the left front. We're seeing the inside of the shirt, so it's on the left in the photo. Note that the stitching to finish the placket would be done from the inside, using the edgestitching technique I've talked about in other blogs.
So now let's see how the folds are made on the left front. The instructions say to fold at the first clips (nearest center front) at the neck and hem. Stab pin in place. Then use a seam gauge to measure the fold in between, stabpinning all along the fold. Like this:
Make the second fold in the same way, using the second clips as a guide. Here's a photo showing the inside of the shirt, showing the folds. I laid the pattern over so you can see how the folds align with the foldlines on the pattern. The interfacing is also in place. Of course, these folds will be turned to the inside. I only showed it with the wrong side up because it's easy to see the folds this way.
Here's the same thing from the right side with the folds in their final position. I left some interfacing sticking out so you could see where it goes.
And this photo shows where the edgestitching would occur when finished.
Let's look at the right front placket. It's a bit different. Here are the first 2 folds and the interfacing. Again, fold the first fold at the neck and hem clips, use a seam gauge in between neck and hem to get an even fold, stab pin, and press. Same for the second fold. Note the interfacing placement. (Note: In order to show the pattern on top of the folded fabric, I had to show the inside of the garment. The hem edge of the fabric piece is at the top of the photo and the neck is toward the bottom of the photo.)
Here's what it looks like without the pattern on top. The black marks are at the clips.
Here's what the first 2 folds look like when pressed in place. Again, hem is toward the top.
Now the third fold has been made in the same manner. Make this fold with the previous folded edge tucked up right against this third fold.
Once that third fold is pressed, turn the whole front over so you are looking at the right side (outside) of the garment.
With right side up, stitch 1/4" from the folded edge.
When finished with this line of stitching, turn the right front over so you are again looking at the wrong side (inside) of the shirt. Press the body of the shirt away from the placket (to the right in the next photo). The photo shows it already pressed; placket is on the left, body of shirt extending to the right.
Your previous stitching is on the left in the following photo. Your next step is to stitch 1/4" from the edge as in the following photo (the line of stitching on the right). The buttonholes will go in between the 2 lines of stitching.
It might be helpful to cut a couple of large squares of fabric, make the clips as on the pattern, and make a sample before working on your actual shirt.
I hope this clears up confusion. As always, feel free to write to us if you have any questions about a technique on one of our patterns.
